As I recall the Yamaguchi 80's which predated the Ace 90 had a blank cover.

Thanks hodakamax, going back together this afternoon.

Thanks guys, counter shaft has a nut which was snug. Have a new seal, collar, nut and lock ring so hoping for the best. Also have o ring for control shaft but assume that requires engine tear down. Also opinions on best gear box oil?

Have a 1970 Ace 100, leaks around counter shaft so got a new seal and removed old one. Looking at parts diagram there appears to be a washer behind the seal, mine is missing, could this be my problem as seal looks good?

Thanks guys, am back to original brass ones and working with valve lapping compound to get a smooth fit.
Don

Have a 1970 Ace 100, original brass petcocks look great but leak so ordered a set of the newer type thinking the design was less likely to leak. Installed with new seals and one snapped off at threads as I was snugging it up. Looks like pot metal. Does anyone know what the original material was? Don

When Hodaka transitioned from 100B to 100B+ at what engine number did transition begin. Also what are the differences between the engines. Thanks, Don

Thanks guys, guess I need to pull the head and have a look. Head has decompressor so may be aftermarket but head looks stock and was thinking extra plug hole was done at a machine shop.

That's interesting. Have used the B8S which is s bit shorter and it runs ok but it has a lot more punch with the B8HS which is hotter.

Am using NGK B8HS with stock compression and carb, plug has nice color. Any recommendations on better plug?

Thanks for the help, guess I can assume the head is aftermarket but not Webco, has no lower fins. Decompressor is installed and works great.

Have a 1970 Ace 100 with cylinder head with two plug holes. Plug is in center hole and decompressor is in second hole canted toward rear. Is this standard or an option.
Thanks, Don

I have a 1970 Ace 100 which runs great and has factory gearing. problem: bike tops out at around 38 MPH. Engine is stock with new carb purchased from Strictly Hodaka around 6 months ago. Any suggestions and what top speed should I expect? Don

Took pet cocks apart, checked, cleaned and reinstalled with new gaskets, still leak, any suggestions appreciated.
Don

Was the factory heat shield chrome or silver?
Don

Have noted different part # for 100 and 100B does anyone know what the difference is?

Thanks Ed,
I wonder why they didn't use a hex head that you could grab on to? Can the pin be reused?
Don

While I have the clutch cover off I want to replace the actuating arm O ring. I noticed there's a rivet holding the arm, assume this has to be drilled out. Thanks for help, Don

Thanks guys, didn't think to pull the cover. Had to extract the rubber stopper for clearance then carefully twist the spring cover with spring tension about 90 degrees to mate with hole in lever and slide onto spline. All the while moaning shitty design, LOL, thanks again. Don

Still breaking the learning curve on my 1970 100B. Replaced Klickstart lever, spring and spring cover with NOS parts. Got the job done and works and looks great but took around 30 minutes with a lot of cussing. I'll bet with correct procedures about 30 seconds, please share the secret.

Am changing fork oil, what is the oil capacity and are there any special procedures?

What's the consensus on a good modern gearbox oil for an Ace 100?

The color is red but I have a number of NOS painted parts that I used to match the color and to my eye it's a reddish tomato soup. Strictly Hodaka has the original color paint available.

Thanks Roger, that confirms my observations.
Don

Thanks Jimmy, if you go to second position on ignition switch with engine not running do you have lights?