Hello Ed, Is this proposal something that the long time leaders and workers such as yourself support? As a lowly, usually lurking member, it sounds like a good thing, to spread the work around. I, and I'm sure others, want to vote for what is in the best interest of the future for the Hodaka Club, a...

Hello Clarence, I serve no formal or informal position. I am simply a member, I love Hodaka motorcycles and appreciate the fun and friendships that I have long associated with them. I have reread my post and I think that I was clear in asking what those who have carried the load so far prefer. Someo...

Hello, friends. I've gotten a couple of emails to vote on a club constitution change. I'm not very active but want to see the Hodaka Club thrive well into the future. Would anyone care to post a thought or two about the pros and cons of this proposal? Especially, what do the folks who have done the ...

Thank you for all your work to keep this site healthy.
-Stever

Rick, I have to take my wife to the doctor tomorrow. I'll dig the motor out in the morning before we go, then get back with some details for you tomorrow evening.

I have a complete Super Combat motor, used, that I purchased at Vintage Days at Mid-Ohio, I think that was 2006. It has the carb, but the rubber intake is cracked, of course. It has compression. I won't be using it now, but have not gotten around to selling it or any of my other orphaned projects. C...

Hey Victor, Those look like the orange Boge Mulholland shocks from the 1970s. The good feature was that seals were available separately, unlike most other shocks at the time. Other internal parts may have been available, I just don't remember. The bad was that to adjust spring preload you had to rem...

Oh yeah, the link:

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/mpo/ ... 23554.html

-Stever

'69 Ace parts bike, in case anyone needs it..

I just saw this on craigslist Atlanta. Looks like some nice early parts survived on this one.

-Stever

A question for y'all, please. I think through it and reach a conclusion one way, then think about it differently and conclude the opposite. In other words, I've confused myself, which is not an unusual situation. Talking 2 cycle engines, should the volume calculation (for compression - not for displ...

Victor, I reread the whole thread (which took a while - LOL !) and here's my two cents, pulling pieces from posts by Ed, Dale and Matt. I think these are the most pertinent - Per Ed, the compression occurs from the top of the exhaust port on up. Per Ed and Matt, check everywhere that can leak in tha...

If all else fails and you resort to drilling, here is just a little more detail on drilling out. This applies to the swing arm bolt, but I mainly learned this from watching how a friend drilled out bolts that had broken off in a threaded hole, where the threads in the hole really needed to be saved....

One way, which saves hammering, heating, penetrating oil, etc, although some cursing may still be required - Carefully drill out both ends of the bolt, down to the swingarm, starting with small drill bits working up to the size of the bolt. That gets the swingarm free from the frame. I think there's...

Thanks, Dale. After 10 years wrenching on bikes, I did 30 years as a I.T guy, including system administration. I'm not going to make your job any harder than it already is. Thanks for what you do.

-Stever

Rickman Hodaka project bike on Craigslist Atlanta. My bike, finally facing facts, I don't have time to devote to completing it. Don't you just hate having to deal with reality? I have it listed at $2500, but for any Hodaka Club member here $2000 or make me an offer. I'd like to see it go to a good h...

VERY cool bike.
What Matt said for sure, including new main bearings and seals. And a leaking main seal on the clutch side could be the source of your plug fouling.

-Stever

Beat up flywheel key sure sounds like Ed is on the right track, (as always) about the flywheel seating on the crank. Little details - make sure the screws holding the primary coil to the plate are not slightly bent from a previous mishap, they are long and thin and bend easily if they get smacked. I...

Yes, cool discussion. And I want to "edit" my previous post, deferring to Clarence's knowledge. I don't know if what I had on my B model were true "butter" forks, just that they bent easily doing local MX. And they could have been swapped out well before I got the bike.

-Stever

I don't think those fork tubes were exclusive to Super Rats. My first Hodaka was an early B model, and it had the butter forks. I bought it used, so can't swear those tubes were on it new, but I have no reason to think otherwise. My neighbor across the street, whose son raced Hodakas, had a shop pre...

Peace, love and understanding to all. Just one small nit to pick, forgive me. Matt has the terminology right, as far as I've always heard, it is a shot plug , cheap and easy in the manufacturing process, often swagged (spelling?) or peened in place. A check ball is found in a check valve or somethin...

Echoing olddogs excellent advice, and I would advise you to just presume you'll need new seals, it is cheap insurance against damaging a new top end, especially if you don't know exactly how old the old seals are. If you are at all mechanical, the Hodaka engines are a delight to work on. In fact, to...

I just want to echo what Ed said, and especially the last line "IF all the ducks are in a row...". A person can guess themselves crazy trying working on carburetion before the ignition is working just right. That duck needs to get in line. You are certainly correct that there are two circu...

Like most every Hodaka fan, I have always loved the names, especially Super Rat, Wombat, and Combat Wombat. Way back in the day I liked thinking about the folks at Pabatco, they must have had fun making up the names. No marketing department fake tough names like Samurai, Avenger, or stuff like that....

OK my friend, maybe I have found what you are looking for. Bear in mind that I posted earlier, regarding the Pabatco reed installation instructions, "I don't recall if it included jetting recommendations". I kind of figured it did, but my copy was long gone years ago. I looked a bit online...

A strip of thin paper placed through the slot in the flywheel and between the points can also be used as a surprisingly accurate way to set the timing. Pull gently on the paper strip while VERY slowly turning the flywheel by hand, and the paper should come loose just as the timing marks line up. A k...