The first is giving me only 85 lbs/sq. in compression. The second is giving me 115 lbs/sq.in compression, and this one was bored by Hodaka Dave.
What should I be checking here? These are the only Hodakas to ever give me this problem.

Good info Clarence and the experience to back it up. I like it. I also set my ring gap on the tight side. I always think, what will it be after a couple of heat cycles?taber hodaka wrote: ↑Mon Aug 23, 2021 12:02 pm If you do not chamfer the ports the ring can catch and brake. Timing to me is not critical 12 to 15 thousands will work. Measured ring end gap is very important to me I like it on the tight side of spec, looked good will not work. On the old cast iron dykes ring I have never honed the cylinder. The ring needs end gap, I measure it in the position it will be in when the piston is installed, it should be measured at the top of cylinder and at the bottom the stroke. And you also need some gap where the ring centers around the piston pin in the ring grove. I always grease the cylinder wall with grease to boost compression a little bit for initial starting. No push back, haul back or walk back. Clarence
Don't forget the bore measurements and piston clearance.
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