01 Dirt Squirt - new thread

[motovate]

I started a new thread since I have some photos.

1975/76 01 dirt squirt that I just picked up last Wednesday. Got it out of the trailer today, it started up first kick and sounds pretty good - ran it up and down the road a little and it actually seems to run pretty good. I pulled the oil pump cover and found the oil pump had been pulled and blocked off with what looks like a mfg block off kit. Screws were just a bit loose and a little weepy so I tightened them up and cleaned out inside the case no idea if the oil pump drive gear is still inside or not.. Couldn't tell if the cases had ever been split but then again I didn't look real hard either. The bike definitely has been worked on over the years though! Found a zerk fitting in the front steering neck and it has been used. There is a compression release in the head and it's been there awhile but there is plenty of snap so I'd guess it has at least been reringed at some time. Overall it seems like a pretty good basic platform to start with . Making a list - cables, levers, handle bars(rusty ones on it), grips, maybe a different throttle with out the pump cable hole in it, screw kit, fenders, extra plugs, etc.

So I have do have some questions and if I can I'll add some photos.

There is a bolt on the top of the carb manifold - wondering what it is for.

Since I thought the 01's had tapered hubs I have put photos of the front and rear wheels/hubs which are not tapered but are hooked to the 19"F/17" rear rims. Wondering If anyone can ID them or if they are in fact stock.

Also the front forks are definitely not hodaka looks like they are leading axle type -maybe someone will recognize them. The seem to be in the stock fork holders.

Thanks
LBM

[BrianZ]

Congrats on the Dirt Squirt!

The oil pump blanking plate is available from Hodaka-parts.com. I don't know if it is an official Hodaka part or aftermarket, but it does the job. You can replace the entire two piece clutch cover with the earlier single piece cover but you'll have to modify the kick start bump stock, or the kick start will rub against the cover.

The grease fitting on the steering tube is stock. All Hodakas had them. Since the bike doesn't have sealed bearings a little pump with the grease gun will force some grease in and push the dirt out.

The compression release is not stock, but it seems to be a common mod of the era.

I have the same throttle on my bike, and I plugged the hole with JB weld and then painted over it. No one will know it's there.

The bolt on the carb mainifold is plugging the hole where the oil injection fitting once was. I did the same thing on my Road Toad when the oil injection was removed.

Hodaka used a tapered hub on the front wheel but not the back. Yours looks stock to me. 17" rear and 19" front were stock, but your entire front end is from a different bike. It's common to put beefier forks on the front to replace the stock 30mm tubes. The triple clamps look stock. What are the fork tube diameters? If someone bored out the triple clamps I would think they are pretty thin around the tubes.

Brian

[BrianZ]

One more thing. As you already know, the stock filter assembly has been replaced by the sock filter. The sock filter will work okay, and will probably even breathe better than the stock filter, but it lacks the classic Hodaka look. There is a disadvantage with the sock filter though. If you get into any mud it will quickly coat the sock filter and block air flow. Judging from the pictures, it looks pretty dry where you are.

It's pretty dry hear too, but only because the water is frozen.

Brian

[Charlie R]

I can clear up the fork situation. They appear to be Hatta's from the Kawasaki F7 175. I'm pretty sure they were 30mm dia forks so the triples most likely are the stock 01's. Hope this helps...

Charlie R.

[motovate]

Thanks - I thought they might have been from a Kawasaki because I had seen the old 250 Big horns with them but I had no idea who made them. Thanks - any idea how they worked out? As good as the stock Squirt forks or better? Any ones guess as to why they were switched out probly bent the stockers and found something that would fit!! I just went out with a caliper and flash light and they do measure 30 mm - probably the stock triples. One of these days I'll probably move the axle to the front and gain an inch or so of wheel base just for the fun of it. I'll do some looking for seals to see if I can find any listed in case I need some.

Thanks - . LBM

I can clear up the fork situation. They appear to be Hatta's from the Kawasaki F7 175. I'm pretty sure they were 30mm dia forks so the triples most likely are the stock 01's. Hope this helps...

Charlie R.

[motovate]

It's been a crazy winter here - had the freeze we usually get in Jan in December. Some rain storms moving through but right now we are in the mid 60's easing close to 70. That is definitely a couple of months early. Still we usually get a big snow in March but who knows this year.

I'll run the sock for now but will probably see if a Wombat or Super Rat filter Assembly will fit -I think those have a larger filter then the Squirt Assembly.

Thanks -

LBM

One more thing. As you already know, the stock filter assembly has been replaced by the sock filter. The sock filter will work okay, and will probably even breathe better than the stock filter, but it lacks the classic Hodaka look. There is a disadvantage with the sock filter though. If you get into any mud it will quickly coat the sock filter and block air flow. Judging from the pictures, it looks pretty dry where you are.

It's pretty dry hear too, but only because the water is frozen.

Brian

[Charlie R]

Well.....not exactly an upgrade but not any worse than stock. I meant to mention the front wheel/backingplate/brakes/etc. are from the same model. Year of production was 1971 for sure. The middle and front axle position works ok but reversing the lowers to reduce rake.......makes for an unhappy handling motorcycle!

[motovate]

OK - just to make sure I'm tracking here - you are saying the front wheel is probably from the Kawasaki F7 and most likely a 1971 model???. Probably good enough to ride unless I was trying for a more pure Squirt and in that case I'd need the whole shebang!!

I just ordered a set of rims complete from a Road Toad 21F/18R - supposed to be good - so when they get here I'll see how they hook up to the Hattas then get some tires. I also found all over the internet seals & dust covers for the Hattas so if they start to leak I can still get new seals.

Thank again

LBM

Well.....not exactly an upgrade but not any worse than stock. I meant to mention the front wheel/backingplate/brakes/etc. are from the same model. Year of production was 1971 for sure. The middle and front axle position works ok but reversing the lowers to reduce trail.......makes for an unhappy handling motorcycle!

[Bullfrog]

CAUTION!!!!

Do not move the axle to the front hole if the triple clamps are indeed stock Hodaka. While you will gain an inch or so of wheelbase, you will also lose an inch of "trail" (an important steering geometry specification). Instead of gaining stability from the longer wheelbase . . . you will get a twitchier bike which will throw you on your head quite frequently on bumpy downhills (and perhaps other places) due to the reduction in "trail".

Ed
PS: Did I mention CAUTION?(!)

[motovate]

Boy I sure don't remember steering head zerk fittings on the early super rat I had but I do remember it as an up date and good thing to do I was just surprised to see it. I used to run a compression release back in the day on a Yamaha DT1 I had until it became "common knowledge" (what ever that is) that they sucked dirt in as well as letting compression out and chewed up rings/cylinders. I actually liked them - kind of like a Jake brake on a diesel truck. I never actually had an issue with the one I had but I did pull it off because I just didn't want to chew up rings and cylinders. And theyseemed to fade away fairly quickly. Good call on the bolt on the carb manifold bolt - I hadn't thought about that.

Congrats on the Dirt Squirt!

The oil pump blanking plate is available from Hodaka-parts.com. I don't know if it is an official Hodaka part or aftermarket, but it does the job. You can replace the entire two piece clutch cover with the earlier single piece cover but you'll have to modify the kick start bump stock, or the kick start will rub against the cover.

The grease fitting on the steering tube is stock. All Hodakas had them. Since the bike doesn't have sealed bearings a little pump with the grease gun will force some grease in and push the dirt out. Forks are 30mm so the triples were not bored out. But it is sure seeming that the whole front end is from the Kawsaki F7.

Thanks - LBM

The compression release is not stock, but it seems to be a common mod of the era.

I have the same throttle on my bike, and I plugged the hole with JB weld and then painted over it. No one will know it's there.

The bolt on the carb mainifold is plugging the hole where the oil injection fitting once was. I did the same thing on my Road Toad when the oil injection was removed.

Hodaka used a tapered hub on the front wheel but not the back. Yours looks stock to me. 17" rear and 19" front were stock, but your entire front end is from a different bike. It's common to put beefier forks on the front to replace the stock 30mm tubes. The triple clamps look stock. What are the fork tube diameters? If someone bored out the triple clamps I would think they are pretty thin around the tubes.

Brian

[motovate]

Good Idea. I had a fleeting idea that something might be a little wonky about moving the axle forward but it just fleeted on through!!! I wonder what was different about the F7 Tripples to make it work or if it didn't work and every one just ran the center axle clamp. At any rate they didn't hang around very long.

I'm putting a 21F/18R set of Toad wheels on this squirt - the 21 forward mounted on the forks probably would really play havoc with the trail!!!

Can you tell from the enclosed photo if the tripples I have look like stock 01 Squirt clamps??

Thanks
LBM

CAUTION!!!!

Do not move the axle to the front hole if the triple clamps are indeed stock Hodaka. While you will gain an inch or so of wheelbase, you will also lose an inch of "trail" (an important steering geometry specification). Instead of gaining stability from the longer wheelbase . . . you will get a twitchier bike which will throw you on your head quite frequently on bumpy downhills (and perhaps other places) due to the reduction in "trail".

Ed
PS: Did I mention CAUTION?(!)

[BrianZ]

The triple clamps on your bike look stock. Just as a "FYI", the Road Toad never came with 18" and 21" wheels. Both models had 17" and 19".

Brian

[Dale]

Brian, Are you sure? I believe that the 02 did have 21/18.
Dale

[motovate]

Thanks. Didn't the 1976 02 Road Toad come stock with 21"/18"'s? I sure hope so because I just bought set already shipped -sold as Road Toad 21"/18" including hubs.

LBM

The triple clamps on your bike look stock. Just as a "FYI", the Road Toad never came with 18" and 21" wheels. Both models had 17" and 19".

Brian

[BrianZ]

Oops, my mistake. You're correct, Dale and LBM. The later 02 Toad had 18" and 21" rims.

Brian

[socalhodaka]

The triples for leading axle for would have no offset. Not sure if thats the right term, so the correct triple would be straight across the steering stem

Good Idea. I had a fleeting idea that something might be a little wonky about moving the axle forward but it just fleeted on through!!! I wonder what was different about the F7 Tripples to make it work or if it didn't work and every one just ran the center axle clamp. At any rate they didn't hang around very long.

I'm putting a 21F/18R set of Toad wheels on this squirt - the 21 forward mounted on the forks probably would really play havoc with the trail!!!

Can you tell from the enclosed photo if the tripples I have look like stock 01 Squirt clamps??

Thanks
LBM

CAUTION!!!!

Do not move the axle to the front hole if the triple clamps are indeed stock Hodaka. While you will gain an inch or so of wheelbase, you will also lose an inch of "trail" (an important steering geometry specification). Instead of gaining stability from the longer wheelbase . . . you will get a twitchier bike which will throw you on your head quite frequently on bumpy downhills (and perhaps other places) due to the reduction in "trail".

Ed
PS: Did I mention CAUTION?(!)

[admin]

I have been down and out with the flu the past few days but every now and again checking the website.
With Chris and Kaity's help we have made some short video's on how to identify your Hodaka model. This helps me to help you as a majority of time folks are still not sure what they have.For the full version Ken's "Hodaka" book is the best source for the complete story!

We have sent out a bulk email with these short videos and will post on our website with more to come. This is NOT the complete way to tell the difference between models but this does address the majority of misinformation I am posed with daily.

I hope that folks take the few minutes to review this before emailing or calling for questions on which model they have.
I am also asked many times a week "what is my bike worth"? I am going to avoid answering this specific question from this point forward with a dollar amount. It is worth what someone will pay for the bike. When I am emailed a description or a photo there is no true way I can set a value on what "I" feel the bike might be worth. When I see on eBay auctions that Paul say's the bike is worth this or that it is not fair to myself or the potential buyer.
I am always happy to help as I hope is shown with these video's as it took many hours of Chris's, Kaity's and my time to put these out for the public. I will no longer offer appraisals from here forward.

Here is the link to our new video's with much much more to come soon.
http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/SearchRes ... p?Cat=2315

Thank you
Paul

Thanks

[BrianZ]

Nice job on the videos, with some good solid information. You and your team have made some nice improvements to your web site. As for appraisals, prices seem to be all over the place, depending on condition (of course) location, time of year, etc, etc, etc. It makes good sense to say "whatever someone will pay".

Brian

[Charlie R]

So true Brian. Case in point....I had a clean, unrestored Model 94 that I freshened up the motor. I also got it registered and tagged. I had it for a few months and decided to sell it and start another project. I took it to Mid-Ohio and some local vintage swap meets asking 900.00. with not so much as a sniff. Parked it for two years, got tired of walking around it and listed it on the local Craigslist for 1200.00. Sold in 30 minutes to the third person to call. Maybe we UNDER value our old bikes sometimes Sorry for the off topic story.

Back to the forks, the F7 triples have about the same offset as the 01's. Myself, the center mount would be the best axle position to use. the Hattas have another feature (if I'm remembering right) that might be far more useful. If there are little rubber caps in the center of the fork caps you have preload adjusters for the front fork springs. I believe there are 2-3 positions to choose from. I know the larger bore models using the Hatta's had this feature. Let us know if yours has the preload adjusters if you don't mind.

Charlie R

[dirty_rat]

If I remember correctly from some magazine articles back in the early 1970's, they all said the fork thing (forward mount or straight mount) was just a gimmick. They all recommended leaving the fork legs in the straight configuration as anything else did effect handling - for the worst.

[motovate]

Probably why the faded away. I'm absolutely convinced not to move the wheel forward - still curious about the forks though.

LBM

If I remember correctly from some magazine articles back in the early 1970's, they all said the fork thing (forward mount or straight mount) was just a gimmick. They all recommended leaving the fork legs in the straight configuration as anything else did effect handling - for the worst.

[motovate]

I went out and looked at the fork caps - solid - not the good ones!!

Lots of different reasons we pay what we do for our toys. This is the 3rd Hodaka for me . I had a buddy I went to college with about 1969 who had a Hodaka Ace 90 or 100. He put a set of Van Tech Link forks on it and I rode it around now and again . For some reason I always liked it when I grabbed the front brake and the front end came up instead of diving. In about 1971 I bought a new Super Rat. Probably a Model 93A From looking @ Paul's videos - at that time all we did was call them Super Rats. Lots of good times and good stories on that little rat and one reoccurring nightmare. For some reason I can't find many photo's of it (plenty of all the other bikes I've had) and I can not for the life of me remember what I did with it!!!!! I can remember selling /trading and one time throwing one in parts away ( bad bad choice there!!!!) all of the other bikes I've had. The nightmare is I drove off and left it some where - but where!!! Then I picked up a 125 Wombat a few years ago but sold it off when I was low on cash and never really used it much.

Still had the hankering for a Hodaka rider. So in a moment when I had just a little cash I jumped on this Dirt Squirt. $810 + 175 for them to haul it from LA Area to just across the Arizona border - Quartzsite, az. 400+ mile all day round trip on my part - probably $75 in fuel and another $69 to the Arizona DMV for a plate and OHV tag tax and all and I'm back in Hodakaville. It was advertised as a "stock" 1976 Hodaka Dirt Squirt. I'm still kinda finding out just how not stock it is!!!!! Good thing is it started first kick after sitting a couple of days, carb was clean as advertised, brand new kill switch that didn't work - (either not connected or connected to the wrong wire - no biggie) and I am making an need list and a want list - on the want list is a set of Van Tech Link Type forks if the Hattas don't work out!!! . Total cost around $1100. I know I could of paid close to that for another Hodaka some where, maybe in better shape but not one so close. I just felt called to this little squirt and there it is!!! I'll just have to see how I "feel" when the warm and fuzzys wear off! Right now I go out and talk to it and tell it all the good things I have in store for it - so please don't sieze up on me!!!!

Thanks for the help.

LBM

So true Brian. Case in point....I had a clean, unrestored Model 94 that I freshened up the motor. I also got it registered and tagged. I had it for a few months and decided to sell it and start another project. I took it to Mid-Ohio and some local vintage swap meets asking 900.00. with not so much as a sniff. Parked it for two years, got tired of walking around it and listed it on the local Craigslist for 1200.00. Sold in 30 minutes to the third person to call. Maybe we UNDER value our old bikes sometimes Sorry for the off topic story.

Back to the forks, the F7 triples have about the same offset as the 01's. Myself, the center mount would be the best axle position to use. the Hattas have another feature (if I'm remembering right) that might be far more useful. If there are little rubber caps in the center of the fork caps you have preload adjusters for the front fork springs. I believe there are 2-3 positions to choose from. I know the larger bore models using the Hatta's had this feature. Let us know if yours has the preload adjusters if you don't mind.

Charlie R

[Dale]

I just felt called to this little squirt and there it is!!! I'll just have to see how I "feel" when the warm and fuzzys wear off! Right now I go out and talk to it and tell it all the good things I have in store for it - so please don't sieze up on me!!!!

LBM, If you are going out to talk to your Hodaka already, then let me forewarn you that it will be "Hodakas" soon. They do have a way of multiplying in your garage... Have fun with this project. It looks like a great little bike.
Dale

[motovate]

Welllllllllllll - Yea - maybe - kind of self limiting on the $$ issue but I kinda already want a good running ED or SL 250 and then a good running 125 Wombat of Combat ----- if I sold off that old SP Piggy and the real nice DR 650 and then the old Land Cruiser and then I've got an old pair of Calked Logging boots with turned up toes I might get something for-----------

LBM

I just felt called to this little squirt and there it is!!! I'll just have to see how I "feel" when the warm and fuzzys wear off! Right now I go out and talk to it and tell it all the good things I have in store for it - so please don't sieze up on me!!!!

LBM, If you are going out to talk to your Hodaka already, then let me forewarn you that it will be "Hodakas" soon. They do have a way of multiplying in your garage... Have fun with this project. It looks like a great little bike.
Dale

[Zyx]

Moving the axle forward or back with relation to the steering angle changes trail, in this case the expression of a caster dimension, measured as the distance between the point of tire contact and the point where the extended line of the steering head contacts the ground. Any changes to this relationships alters the handling of the machine. You can't change the caster angle without altering the frame, but you can change the overall degree of influence caster has on handling by changing the trail. The best way to know what works for you is to try all three variants, centered, leading, trailing. You will know immediately which is best for you. My guess would be that unless you are trialling the bike, or flat tracking, leading or trailing positions will do nothing helpful to the handling, and could make handling unpredictable.