combat wombat barn find

[viclioce]

Coming along nicely Albert! Victor

[givergas]

thanks victor , when you put the wheel spacer / speedometer drive , on should it be packed with grease ? ....albert

[Dale]

Albert, Do you have a spacer that replaces the speedo drive or the actual speedo drive? If the latter, then I would completely disassemble it, clean it up and then pack it with waterproof grease.

[givergas]

I have the spacer that replaces the speedometer

[givergas]

And I now have a roller

[dirty_rat]

No need to grease that spacer (just make sure your wheel bearings and clean and well greased.)

[givergas]

Thanks wheel bearings are cleaned and greased . soaked the carb all night in a soapy concoction and starting to come clean

[givergas]

todays progress . foot rest on , rear brake assembly on , kick stand on , mud flaps on , carburetor is cleaned and ready to go . so the old clutch cable broke where it screws into the side case . so took the side case off so i can un screw it and found no safety wire on the clutch , the clutch nut just fell off and looks like it is buggered up , the crankshaft threads do look fine thankfully , the what i believe is the Clutch pinion bushing is all but destroyed and the Clutch pressure piece is missing . i hope this trend doesn't keep going ..... albert

[viclioce]

Oh My! Well, at least Terry has everything you need at Hodaka-Parts.com.

BTW, remember to check your flywheel and make sure it got upgraded in accordance with the Service Bulletin! Here’s a copy for you, just in case…. Victor

[givergas]

that's interesting victor . it says construction weakness then says removed and replaced with a improved or welded unit { welded at PABATCO } , so what was welded ? and who welded them ?. i will sure check it out .....albert

[givergas]

so looked at the fly wheel and what do you know they drilled right where you can not tell if its a 2 or a 3 , but the engine # j05281 means its not in the range of needing fix / replaced..... albert

[Bullfrog]

That looks like a 2 to me, mostly because - if the bottom of a 3 is imagined as a duplicate of the imprint you can see, the 3 would be a lot taller than the accompanying letter.

Were there radial stripes of rust dust extending out from the center hub when you first looked at the flywheel? If so, repair (welding) or replacement is indicated. I think the Service Bulletin illustrates the recommended welds. Vic?
Ed

[Bullfrog]

Hey! I found pages 2 and 3 of the Service Bulletin shown above. (still searching for the illustration of the welding)

[Bullfrog]

Here is a bad copy of the HOT TIP which provides information on welding the flywheel hub.

Ed

[dirty_rat]

Just wondering why this problem never came up on the model 94 and 94A Wombat's, as they used the same basic ignition system (just with the addition of lighting coils).

[taber hodaka]

The rpm factor would make a lot of difference. Clarence

[Bullfrog]

It was a production batch of flywheels from Kokusan Denki. Note that batch numbers were called out AND measurement of the finished diameter of the rivet heads was specified.
Ed
PS: Clarence, you have email.

[givergas]

so looked at the fly wheel a little closer today and after reading the service bulletins {that i have by the way . went through the pile of bulletins i have and found them all } on it and as my engine # is out side of the numbers indicated i think its fine. but if some of you think im wrong with that assessment please let me know . it is nice to know about these things . that being said the poor old fly wheel has been abused . you can see it was beat on . and the Magneto assembly frame screws are mangled got one out have to work on the other when i have more time . and the wiring is pretty bad needs replaced . i think i will relocate the condenser under the tank...... albert

[Bullfrog]

I'm coming to a different conclusion. I still think that is a 2 which is partially drilled away. In addition, the new photos show (fairly lightly) the radial lines coming out from under the hub. Those lines are an indication of "fretting" - teensy weensy movements between the main flywheel and the hub. Annnnnd, further, there are radial lines from each of the six rivets seen on the inside - more signs of "fretting". Annnnnnd, it appears that a previous owner hammered the rivets to tighten things up. Annnnnnnd, (finally), the ends of the coil cores MIGHT be showing signs of rubbing on the flywheel (although I don't see any signs of rubbing on the flywheel magnets - can't see 'em all though).

I would certainly recommend a close inspection of how "true" the flywheel runs when you get it all back together. First by simple "kick overs" - which may be all you need to see a problem. Then watch for trueness with the engine running. Good luck!
Ed

[givergas]

ok im convinced . it would be very foolish of me not to take your advise . yes someone did hammer the rivets . i was able to thread the hodaka approved fly wheel puller on and remove the fly wheel . i did not take notice of the radial lines coming off of the inside rivets .so your points are well taken . so problem is loose hub on fly wheel . the fix is to have a qualified welder follow the HOT TIP on how to weld the hub to the fly wheel . and i believe that would also include trueing up the inside and out side of said fly wheel . thanks victor for bringing this up and your sage advice ed . very interesting problem to solve ....albert

[taber hodaka]

Albert it looks like the center has been beat on also. Could I send you a clean neat and tidy one, probably a factory or very professional weld? And a number in the safe range? No cost just postage. Clarence

[Bullfrog]

Well dang - a reply from me went somewhere off into the ethers at about the same time Clarence posted his reply. (An offer you should probably accept before your coffee cools down.)

My lost reply went something like this:

EXCEPT a previous owner noticed a problem with the flywheel (almost certainly because of engine vibration or wear/noise from rubbing on the coil cores) and FIXED IT ( ). Notice the high quality finish from the "cold iron" hammering on the rivets. That's almost NASA level precision.

It is quite likely that the main flywheel body has already de-centered from the hub. If that is the case - a weld repair is not really an option.

Cross yer fingers.

Ed

[givergas]

Clarence thats pretty nice of you . i will take you up on the offer and i will make it right for you . ED i really appreciate your input and that nasa stuff is very high tec ... albert

[taber hodaka]

Albert My flywheel is a FP6101 with a pefix number 2F. The balance holes are where they should go < in my opinion >. you will want to clean it up. I will look and see if I have a address for you. Clarence

[givergas]

I did PM you with it clarence