Hi.
My 03 wombat is over tests
As i know it has a Kokusan FP6115 6Volt magneto.
With the engine running at low rpm i measured the 2 coils with a multimeter and obtain 11 volt on the green wire and 8 volt on the Yellow one.(if i increase rpm's the value increases too)
My questions : is it the wright voltage value considering that nothing is connected and absorving power from the electric supply? And why that voltage diference between the two wires?
Thanks a lot.
The lighting coils will put out more voltage than the rated value of 6 volts ( it has to in order to charge a 6 volt battery). I'm not sure what the actual voltage should be, but I don't think your values are far off (hopefully someone that works on electrics can verify this). I looked through the Workshop manual and couldn't find any ratings on this, only on the exciter coils output.
Dang, I can't come up with the Model 03 wiring diagram right now, so I can't check what I think I know about the green and yellow output wires. But my memory says that one of the wires is the output from the end of both the lighting coils (which are connected in series), and the other one delivers the output from only one of the coils. So one is "stronger" output than the other. It seems like the "middle tap" (single coil) output is not used on the Wombat 03. Perhaps someone can come up with an illustration of the wiring diagram for the 03. (I should be able to, but it might take me a few days to git 'er done.)
Ed
That is a very nice wiring diagram! But I think it contains an error. The green wire is shown as connecting to the "ground" circle surrounding all of the magneto components - which would mean that both ends of the "green" circuit are connected to ground - which would be useless. I think the green wire actually branches off between the two lighting coils. I don't have a Model 03 magneto to inspect (hmmmm, maaaaaybeeee I do . . . but where the heck is it???) - so I can't confirm my thoughts on the issue. NOTE: The green wire is shown connecting to the solid state voltage limiter, which shunts voltage to ground when the pre-set voltage limit is surpassed. Nominal 6 volts in this case.
Ed
Nothing quite like posting a scan of the original . . . but I fear the error is still there. (Which is a real bummer because I MAY have proofed the original before it went in the manual.) So I'll start a spare time search for my 03 engine-in-a-box for a direct look at the actual magneto wiring.
Ed
Hmmmm, I can see the container with the Model 03 engine in it. Now I have to plan out how to get it out. The situation is something like, "I need to get item 1, but I have to move item 2 to get to 1 . . . and I have to move item 3 AND 4 to get to item 2. And I have to move items 5, 6 and 7 in order to have space to temporarily store items 1, 2, 3 and 4." Might be do-able in a week or so. Maybe. Possibly.
Ed
But, the main question is still out there. Is 8 and 11 volts over of what should be being measured from the system? From what limited knowledge on the matter I have, I know the system will produce more volts than 6 (otherwise you could never charge the battery), but just how much more I don't know.
I'll put it this way - I installed a 100 watt, 12v aircraft landing light on my direct wired, Combat Wombat enduro bike (no battery, or anything else for that matter). That headlight provided 3 main features, 1) very bright light with above idle revs, 2) slightly slower top speed due to pumping sooo much energy out the front (just kidding about that), and 3) the ability to make Ponderosa Pine bark smoke at 100 paces (kidding about that too - but the bulb DID melt the tape I had to put on the glass for AHRMA MX racing). The point being, yes, you will see voltage well over 6V on both those wires. But I can't quote exact voltage values because they will vary with 1) engine RPM. AND 2) the electrical load on the circuit.
Just as an aside to this post, Bullfrog (Capt. Eddie) did an excellent article in the "Resonator Revisited" (Volume 1, issue 7, pages 11-14) on a simplified "Enduro" wiring system for the Hodaka's with a three coil system. While not street legal, it has some very good information. In the article he mentions that he was able to run 12 volt lights off the standard 6 volt system, as the unit puts out well over 6 volts. Well worth a read.
Virtue is its own punishment?? So a little while back I said I'd dig out a "basket case" Model 03 engine to take a peek at the lighting system wiring at the coils to help out a Hodaka friend in need in this group. And here's what happened - after an hour of shifting things around to get to the engine, I discovered that I can't help after all (see photo).
The dang stator has been, er, um, modified - so I can't trace out the color coded factory wiring harness back to where the individual wires come off the coils. Sorry about that. AND THEN, I couldn't find the original post which prompted the digging out of the engine either! (Because I was wandering around in the Hodaka Fan Club Facebook group searching for this post in the Hodaka Club Form. A friend in the Facebook group got me turned around and headed back over here to the proper venue.) HOWEVER, all is not lost . . . at least the shed is just a teensy bit more organized now than it was.
Ed
I'm er, um, more than ten years into that project (can't you tell?) The "give aways" that it is a "current project are as follows: 1) The engine bin was visible from a distance, 2) the engine bin had ONLY one layer of stuff on top, and 3) it only took about an hour of concerted effort to dig it out and open the bin. Oh yeah . . . and 4) the bin is actually labeled! Yup - a current project.
Ed
Are you talking about the neutral indicator light?
Here’s the path for the wire. The light green wire goes up from the shift cover into the main harness. Then it follows the light green wire to the indicator light.
No.....the neutral light is already done...the green.
I've got a blue and a red light on the panel too.
Blue for the high beam and the red i think is for the ignition on.....am i thinking well?
Honestly i can not understand this diagram
From the battery we have the positive always connected to speedmeter lights,tail light,Turn signal circuit,horn,neutral indicator light....all of this have the (-) and the question is : how to turn off this lights??
One of the lights should be the "Turn Indicator Light", to let you know a turn signal is on. The other two are as you mention, the Neutral Light and the High Beam Light.
As far as turning them off, I don't quite understand what you are attempting to do? Are these lights always om, with the bike running or not? Are the always on regardless of what is going on (example: is the neutral light always on even when the bike is in gear?)
Finally, are the always on when the switch on the back of the headlight housing is in the DC position? If that is the case, flip the switch to AC and the lights should only come on when the bike is running.
Based on those criteria, I have several "current" projects!
Victor
