I checked the connections on the dimmer switch. They look OK. The toggle switch "DC" and "AC" plate must have been backward (in other words, when the toggle indicated AC I believe it was on DC). Either way, when the toggle is on "AC" nothing happens when the main switch...

I will give that a try and then report back. Thanks.

Yes, there is a toggle switch, which is in the AC position. But the light doesn't work in the AC or DC position.

Hi, everyone. The headlamp on my '72 Wombat does not light. I have tested the light using a 6-volt battery. The light works. I wonder if it's the switch. When I turn the switch (first turn), all of the lights (tail light, speedo, brakes) work as they should. When I turn the switch again, the headlam...

Dale, I just sent you an email. Thanks. --Brian

Hi, Dale. Well, first off, thanks for what you're taking on! I was just trying to add a couple of photos to my add on the Marketplace. For whatever reason, I cannot add photos. I don't want to burden you; if you can do this for me, fine. If not, no worries. Thanks. --Brian

Hi, everyone. Paul mentioned that he has turned over the Marketplace and the Forum to the Hodaka Club. Who is the contact to the Marketplace now? Thanks. --Brian

Thanks, Hydraulic Jack. I think you hit the nail on the head (or close to the head) regarding size. BTW, in regard to your previous post, the o-rings I purchased from Sudco are fuel compatible.

Someone asked why the o-rings need to be replaced. They are not getting chewed up by any roughness from the bowl. I believe it's because the o-rings are not the correct size, so over time they shrink or get "stretched" (maybe because they were too small to begin with). I don't have the too...

Hi, Bill. The o-rings I purchased from Sudco after speaking with a rep told me the ones I purchased--002-212--for this particular carb are correct. However, one o-ring does not work. I've tried it. Two will work, but after a while they need to be replaced. I am convinced these are not the correct si...

Pic 6:

http://s291.photobucket.com/user/BCHeck ... o.jpg.html

Pic 5:

http://s291.photobucket.com/user/BCHeck ... g.jpg.html

Pic 4:

http://s291.photobucket.com/user/BCHeck ... s.jpg.html

Pic 3:

http://s291.photobucket.com/user/BCHeck ... l.jpg.html

Pic 2:

http://s291.photobucket.com/user/BCHeck ... g.jpg.html

All pics:

http://s291.photobucket.com/user/BCHeck ... 3.jpg.html

Thanks, Ed. I will do this later today.

For whatever reason, I am not able to upload the photos. I keep getting a HTTP Error. Any suggestions?

OK. I've uploaded the photos in photobucket.

Hi. I hope someone will be familiar with this issue and be able to help. Bike: 1972 Wombat 125. Issue: Bike starts fine, but when I put it in gear and give it some throttle, it dies. Solution: After some troubleshooting with a mechanic friend, we discovered that it’s an o-ring issue in the carb. Det...

Thanks, Victor. Makes sense. As I said, the fuses in the plastic holder look to be original, or at least old.

Any reason why someone would use a 5A? This was a bike that was restored. It looks to be the original fuse to me (there was another one just like it in the fuse box assembly).

I hope everyone had an enjoyable 4th. I need to replace the fuse for my 1972 Wombat 125. According to the schematic, the fuse is part #949420 (this is the fuse that fits in the clear plastic fuse box assembly, part #949419). The fuse is identified as #949420. Strictly Hodaka sells a fuse ID'd as #94...

I just ordered a set from Dan (who works with Bill) at hodaka-parts.com. Thanks to all for your help.

Thanks, everyone.

I need to replace the shocks on my '72 Wombat 125. The ones that were on the bike when I bought it have absolutely no give (seriously, they make for a bone-jarring, teeth-crushing ride no matter how small the bump and cannot be further adjusted). I want to replace them with as close to the original ...