Hey Joe, you commented above that you didn't know what an Expert was. I can tell you - an EX is a has been and a SPERT is a drip under pressure !!!

I don't have an answer but just had to say those fenders are hilarious !!!!!!

Just to add to Joe's comment, if you use chevy orange in whatever brand be aware that there are two flavors of orange. One really really orange and another that's more of a red orange, which I'm sure what Joe is referring to.

Nice to know Matt. I guess my estimates for the original poster's bikes were quite a bit off. Good thing I didn't decide to sell mine !!!!!

Maybe I am underestimating the value on these things. My survivor, beautiful Dirt Squirt must be worth a lot then. I figured it was worth maybe a grand or so, but if you guys think these two are that valuable, maybe mine is worth a couple grand. Not trying to hijack the thread, just trying to put so...

I would think the dirt squirt would be worth about $250 and the ace maybe $150. I bought my squirt a few years ago for $700 and it was in very nice condition with a clear title and good running engine. Of course if you are patient then there are always suckers out there who will overpay !!!

Very nice. The bushing appears to be made of brass rather than bronze. Can't tell for sure in the video.

MTRob wrote:Hi guys & girls
Yes we use 16 or18 gauge wire on all the harness's. Stronger and works better.
MTRob

Vic had recommended maybe using 14 gauge wire. Just so you know, 14 is LARGER than 16. And 16 is LARGER than 18.

Yes, the correct thread is 3/8-28. This is a BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel). There is also a BSPT in that thread, which is British Standard Pipe Taper, so be careful. This thread is now referred to as a G1/8 rather than a BSPP, but you will see it called both. Don't let the 3/8 versus 1/8 thi...

That bulletin is hilarious. The tranny grenades if you bottom the fender on the tire. What if you slam on the rear brake without pulling in the clutch? Then they instruct dealers how to make the customer think it's his fault. Hilarious. Thanks for posting.

Me too on the 32:1 2R. But I run avgas since I can't get ethanol free pump gas.

Hey GutterRat, here is my 1973 Dirt Squirt. I never quite figured out myself what the deal is with model 96 or 92C. I don't know why it just wasn't one or the other. Oh well....

That should have said needle NOSE. Stupid autofill keyboard...

I think maybe heating in your oven at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes might do it. That's how I heat cases and hubs and stuff to drop in bearings. And of course use the best fitting tools you can. When it's hot you might be able to get a grip on the pin with needle mode pliers and twist it loose. G...

Rich, if they are REALLY sealing inside, you shouldn't even need to epoxy the hole up. Sort of like the brass ones which are essentially open at the back and the front.

OP here. In case anyone is interested, I have saved a few original petcocks which cracked at the threads from overtightening. I cut the threaded portion off, then drilled into the body and tapped threads. Then I made a threaded adapter from brass. That adapter screws into the body. I then pressed a ...

Victor, have you ever used any of the NOS cones? I would think they might have gotten hard or brittle over time. Just curious.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH Brian Z. That is what I wanted to know. Looks like a much better design. They must seal better, any leaks past the rubber insert, or are they pretty fool proof?

Me too. Like you, I tried some repro aluminum ones, and some repro brass ones. They all leaked internally. That's why I was hoping someone could shed some light on the "new and improved" ones. Maybe they are better, maybe not. But I would like to know the construction. Thanks.

Me too. Like you, I tried some repro aluminum ones, and some repro brass ones. They all leaked internally. That's why I was hoping someone could shed some light on the "new and improved" ones. Maybe they are better, maybe not. But I would like to know the construction. Thanks.

Hi Rich. Are you saying that you have the so called new and improved ones with the Viton rubber innards, rather than the hard nylon plastic? I like that name "racerclam". I have a Dirt Squirt with the racer clam on the air filter housing.

What do they have? I'm thinking maybe a straight metal post with a straight rubber sleeve over it. That's the way the Motion Pro petcocks are made. Would like to know more before plopping down more cash. Thanks.

Hey Ed. My pot metal petcocks (originals and repros) have a tapered bore inside. The lever turns a cone shaped nylon "plug" that has a cross drilled hole through it. Are we talking the same thing here?

Hi, on the Strictly Hodaka site I see listed "NEW AND IMPROVED" pot metal petcocks. Says they use viton rubber bushings instead of the hard nylon bushings. Has anyone here bought any of these, and have you looked at the bushing inside? I was just wondering if the bushing was the same taper...

I see what you mean. Did you take off so much material that the hole in the plug part didn't line up anymore??