The Hodaka Club Forum

Hi folks! I’m working on the free play on my 98 Suoer Rat. I’ve already rebuilt the clutch & it has the standard 95/97/98 clutch kit in it. I also blueprinted the clutch.

But I don’t seem to be getting any free play with ANY shims behind the clutch disc! Usually, on a rebuilt clutch I find I need .025 to .028 in shims to get down to 3/32” of free play. But I’m not getting any free play at all unless I use ZERO shims.

Any ideas? Thx!!!

Couple of quick things to check. Is the side case gasket new and in good condition (not compressed too much)?
Without starting the engine, pull in the clutch and try kicking it over slowly. Does the clutch disengage and let you kick through without the piston moving?
Verify that you have the correct clutch disc, as there are two different ones?
Verify the thrust washers under the clutch are the right ones (inner one is thick, outer one is thin)?

I recognize that it is totally counter-intuitive . . . but the outside face of the clutch moves "out" (from the center-line of the engine) as the friction disks wear. So . . . if you have a situation where no clutch disc (throw-out bearing) shims are needed to achieve some free play at the engine clutch lever, you have something going on which has "moved" the contact point of the clutch disc (throw-out bearing) "out" - or possibly the pressure piece is too long. You may not have used the proper number of steel plates? If so, put the missing one at the "inside" of the pack shown in the drawing - NOT against the iron hub. The photo/drawing is of the ACE 100 clutch. While details vary for the various 125cc era clutches - the basic operation of the clutch is exactly the same. The second drawing illustrates dimensions of clutch discs (throw-out bearings) which may be important in diagnosing this situation.

Oooops. I don't know why the clutch drawing loaded twice. I'm better with Hodaka clutches than I am with computers.
Ed