The Hodaka Club Forum

Hello all!

My name is Jesse and I had planned on restoring these bikes almost a year ago...then my wife and I found out we were having our first child! So a house remodel and a daughter later, I'm ready to get back on it...despite a lack a of sleep.

These are the bikes my dad taught my brother and I to ride on many years ago. They've been sitting for ~7 years and want to surprise my dad by getting them up and running again. Here's whats in my garage:

1. Chrome tank Dirt Squirt - red frame, definitely been tinkered with by previously, it will be a challenge
2. Chrome tank Dirt Squirt - orange frame, in great shape, someone took very good care of her (maybe someone here?)
3. Combat Wombat - supposedly this was raced by the previous owner, has some shifting issues if I remember but overall good shape
4. Combat Wombat - parts bike, was bought just for this purpose ~10 years ago

As for me, I'm no mechanic but I can get by. I have a lathe, mill, welders, but time is the bottleneck lately. I look forward to learning from yall as much as possible, my plan for now is to clean the tanks, clean the carbs, replace plug wires, replace plugs, check ignition/timing (waiting on how-to video ), and go from there unless yall have suggestions otherwise. Let me know if I should add to the list or if yall have any advice for now. I tried to keep it short...many questions to come! And I'll get some pics up too

Hello, If I may suggest first you need to determine, each bikes frame number and engine number and then model of each exactly. Once you have the numbers you can then go to Strickly Hodaka site and determine model. At that point in time I strongly suggest you invest in manuals and parts info for each bike. At that point you can determine, what you need to do each to bring them back to life. Lots of help out there, Strickly Hodaka forum you have already found and then suggest joining thee Hodaka Club, info on same site, that will make you as connected as you will want to be. You will find ton,s for excited fellow Hodaka owners more than willing to help you with you projects, How about some bike pictures as well.
Good restoring, and thanks for coming to the Hodaka world again for help. Bruce Young
Hodakaparts.com, Idaho

Jesse,

Welcome to the group! We all love Hodakas here! I had 25 RUNNING Hodakas in my stable at one time but have sought professional help and now I am down to 8! Mostly bikes I race in AHRMA MX, Trials, and Cross Country. But I do have a NICE restored Ace 100 that is tagged.

On your to do lists don't forget...

Flushing, cleaning, and replacing engine and fork fluids...

There is a lot of debate on what tranny fluid to use. I use ATF Type F. Other use Bel Ray. The bottom line is you do NOT want to use a standard detergent oil... You can even use NON Detergent 30wt oil if you like.. BUT change it regardless. Modern fork oil is just fine. I like 15wt in mine but use what you want.

Go over every nut and bolt to make sure they are serviceable and tight! Don't want things falling off when you are riding!

Timing on these bikes is EASY!!!! They are points not CDI! You need to get a Service Manual for these bikes. The good news is there is one for the 100 and the 125 available...

http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/SearchRes ... p?Cat=1866

We all will offer help but you NEED the manuals!!!!! Then you can help us as they tell you what you need to know and are written well IMHO.

The orange and red squirts are probably one in the same as the paint fades orange. If the tank is Chrome and the frame is "Red" is MOST Likely a Model 96 Squirt. The Model 01 Squirt had a Orange Tank and different type black frame.

http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/SearchRes ... p?Cat=1819
http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/SearchRes ... p?Cat=1826

You can find the serial number on the engines and frames to verify models..

http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/Articles.asp?ID=251

The shifting problem on the CW could be as simple as Shift Control Arm adjustment, control shaft springs worn, or shifter bushing worn... OR could be an actual tranny issue that would require splitting cases. Would need to know more about symptoms!

Bob in MD
AHRMA 39F

I guess Bruce had already said most of what I said... Just say his reply..

Not trying to preach

Welcome... You have some really cool bikes!! Have fun!

Bob in MD

Thanks for all the info Bruce and Bob! I went out to the shop last night to pull frame numbers and get a picture. Both of the 100 Dirt Squirts are 92C or 96 models and the 125 Combat Wombat is a 95 model. Once I confirm the engine numbers I'll order service manuals. Here they are (tanks, air filter housing, etc are with the bikes, just not on them right now):

Nice bikes to restore !! Two of my absolute favorite models..
Paul

I love the issue of "shifting problems" my favorite problem to solve.
So many Hodakas have been parked,scarped,sold or given away because of shifting problems.
This is so easy to fix or improve upon. I still here it all the time "Hodakas! man they don't shift for beans" Gosh! I feel sorry for those folks that feel that way. In my opinion and I have shifted and repaired so many brands of motorcycles but I feel the Hodaka shifts as good as any of them and better than most. You can get all the info and tips and advice you could possibly need to remedy that problem right here with this group. So stay with us.

I'm starting with the 96 Squirts, I've ordered a manual and started breaking them down. I've already run into some excitement with the "red" one. Lookes like someone added a different carb based on the "custom" holes drilled in the intake manifold and by the way they chopped up and RTV'd the intake boot to make it fit over the larger diameter carb.

I can doctor the intake manifold, but what do yall think of the intake boot? I'm thinking of just adding a UNI foam pod filter if I can get over the fact that it wont be historically correct.

I would recommend NOT switching to the pod type filter. A new air boot (or the one you have) can probably be made to work. I have a Wombat/Dirt Squirt type air cleaner connected up to a 28mm carb . . . so I think you can make it all work. (Not to mention that I think the stock system will clean the air better and probably breathe easier than the typical pod element.)

Ed
PS: Those look like pretty nifty starting points for getting things working. Lot's of folks have started out with "rust buckets" . . . and you sure don't have that problem!