The Hodaka Club Forum

Are there significant size differences between the Model 99 and Model 94 cranks? The crank in my second RT bottom end is rusted solid into the left side casing. Even if I could get it loose, the crank is beyond use.

I have 3 extra Model 94 crank assemblies and was wondering if they are the same size or not. Comments..... ; D Victor

Nope you can't use a 94 crank in a Toad Engine - pinion gear side dimensions are different and do not allow for the primary kick function.
Ed

Victor,
Are you positive that your crank is beyond repair? Here is one that I pulled two weeks ago. It was rusted tight to the left side bearing. Patience and Kroil worked to separate them. The crank is now refurbished (by Ronald Liddle) and ready to be re-installed. Pretty amazing to me.
Dale

I would agree with Dale going in. Get it apart first. You might be surprised at how little actual damage there is, but if you don't look, you won't know. The bearings are probably junk, but if the race seating area is clean, and it could be, there isn't much else right there to be damaged by surface rust. Soak it and see.

One would suspect that after you have completely pounded the threads off the left end of the crank, that Yeah, it's unusable. Additionally there are a Lot of filings coming out of the left case. I would be happy to just get the case free of the old rusted solid crank. The case was what I'm after. And I still have another 100 crank in the spare parts. This current crank will NOT budge tho! ; D Victor

Dale, what methods did you use to get that crank loose? I have pounded the $hit out of the crank and heated the cases & still can't get it to budge! ; D Victor

Just so folks don't think I'm kidding about the crank...... ; / Victor

Can you press the bearing out with the crank still in the bearing then use a bearing puller to remove the bearing?
Terry

Okay, since you have destroyed the crank half, I agree it isn't useable.

Never, as in, never hammer a threaded end of anything. Always put a nut on the threads, or two nuts if you have them and they will fit, use a brass hammer or rubber mallet, and when necessary, heat the bearing boss. This is no different than removing a bearing, it just something stuck through the middle of it. If it takes excessive force, don't hammer it at all. Press it out after thorough soaking in a penetrant. It's a wonder you didn't crack the case.

tvrc18 wrote:Can you press the bearing out with the crank still in the bearing then use a bearing puller to remove the bearing?
Terry

Yes.

How do you press the crank/bearing combination out? That's a need to know right now! ; D Victor

I will take all the cranks out there that have damaged threads.....assuming the bearing and seal surfaces are in good condition. Damaged threads on the ignition side of the crank are repairable. Best performed in a lathe with adjustable 4 jaw chuck...but with careful workmanship and patience can be done with simple tools.
Danny Cooke

Nice work Danny. I am assuming here that if Vic can get his crank out, you could cut the threaded shaft and graft a new shaft as you demonstrated.

Vic, find someone with an arbor press. It will take more time to set up the supports under the case half than it will to press out the assembly.

dcooke007 wrote:... can be done with simple tools

Nothing you did there was simple.

GMC,

Yes I can use this method to repair Vic's crank.

Danny Cooke

Cool Danny, I had no idea that could be done!

Max

Good condition Hodaka parts are getting harder to find these days. Non traditional ways need to be considered to keep these bikes going. Non traditional but workable and reliable.

Danny Cooke

Also if to small of a hammer is used you just beat things to death. I would use at least a 16 oz hammer. ------Clarence

Victor you could get a small press from Harbor Freight, their shipping rates are really cheap. Anyone that wields could make you one and then use a small car jack. For all that you do, it would be handy. Pawn shop? ------Clarence

Vic,

Pull the rubber seal on the left side case to get it out of the way. Although the surfaces that need lube are also very tight tolerance and not really likely to allow penetration, I would at least try soaking the bearing boss area and the inner race to crank area with something like differential oil, doesn't take much but does require time to work. Don't use WD40. WD40 is not a penetrating oil. Blaster is, but I would use diff lube anyway for this. I returned a brace and bit to service after it sat in the moss and dirt under a tree in Alaska for 25 years. Rusted solid, but after soaking in a pan of discarded diff lube, it worked perfectly and still does. That stuff penetrates anything.

Leave it set for a couple of days. Heat the boss area with a heat gun or propane torch and press out the whole assembly assuming you have access to a press. If not, substitute a brass hammer of good size, but support the aluminum case to the best of your ability so that as much of the shock as possible is transmitted to and through the bearing boss area, and not the entire case itself. This may require making a support just for this one use, like a 2x10 with a hole drilled through it just a tad larger than the crank weight, and blocked up on the floor or solid bench using two by or four by material to keep the entire crank free of striking anything on the blind side. You want to support the perimeter of the case as close as possible to the crank center so that the case doesn't flex.

Clarence also has a point about hammers. Somethines it is better to use a really heavy hammer and strike once or twice than to use a light hammer and beat on it repeatedly. Since the threads are already gone, I would not use a wood block in between crank and hammer because it dissipates shock. And be careful not to miss your target and hit the aluminum boss.

I recommend Kroil. It is the best penetrating oil that I have found. Products such as PB Blaster do not compare. You can find it online or at better fastener stores (Tacoma Screw for example). It is available it both aerosol or drip. The drip is more economical.
Dale

OK Greg & Clarence were right! I heated the case up again with the torch and used a heavier (my framing hatchet!) hammer. The crank came out out, with the bearing still rusted onto it! YEAY! Thanks for all the help!!!

Now o think I need to put a wire brush attachment on my drill to clean out the rust, solidified oil & pieces of melted bearing or whatever those flakes were that came out around the crank! And I have a spare RT crank to boot!!! ; D Victor