The Hodaka Club Forum

Ok this is a question that could get many answers. I received my Wombat from my father earlier this spring and after doing some basic clean up I rode it to work nearly every day and for a few joy rides. The mechanical work was mainly rebuilding the carb, replacing the non-existant airfilter, and lubing up all cables and moving parts. My plan is to tear the bike down and look at installing all new bearings and seals around the bike.

The engine is also going to be torn down and rebuilt. I have wrenched on many things before but I do have my concerns when it comes to rebuilding the engine and getting everything tuned properly. Is this something that a newbie can handle? If I get in a bind is there anyone near the Spokane, WA area that regularly wrenches for coin that could rescue me?

The bike only has 1500 original miles on it but 42 years of living. The intention of the bike for me is simply to enjoy some easy rides and commuting to work.

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated, and yes Paul I will be ordering more parts.

Dale, you will be alright rebuilding the engine, it's not rocket science and the gang can get you through it. You may need outside services for cylinder boring or crankshaft rebuild but they probably won't be needed with that low mileage. All processes can be explained by the crew on the Forum. The worst case would be shipping the engine to some of the Hodaka rebuilders recommended by the Forum. It may only need seals with that low mileage. Have fun!

Max

I agree, but I would ask first why you intend to rebuild. Is it leaking? Is something not quite right about the way it feels? The fact that is has sat around for years seems to be offset by your having used it for commuting this year. Clearly it has made the leap to the 21st century very well.

I would consider leaving it as is, or perhaps installing a new set of rings, but unless there is a problem, or if perhaps you just want to refresh everything on general principals, I would not simply schedule a major overhaul based only on years. A compression leak down test will tell you if the seals are good, and a compression test generally will tell you about upper cylinder condition. A peak at the oil during an oil change will tell you if there is a lot of metal trash in the oil. And so on. I might think about pulling the wheels and greasing the bearings, or replacing the tires. But really, it sounds as if it is in good running order, so what is your thinking on a major overhaul?

If you want to do the overhaul on principal, it is pretty easy to do if you have general mechanical skills, and one or two special tools. I would not use just any motorcycle mechanic in Spokane if you want to have it done professionally. For the cost of shipping there are a few really good Hodaka geniuses here that will do a rebuild right for a fair price.

My concerns are centered around the seals in the lower end and she seemed to bog when pulling hills. I thought starting fresh I would then know it was all in good shape. If others experience has shown a full tear down is not needed then by all means I am good with moderate work.

Dale dried out seals may work today and not tomorrow. I see allot of old engines where the seals are hardened. Seals are cheap compared to a rebuilt crank,bore, new piston and rings. You have some of the finest hodaka repair masters in the Spokane area.===========Clarence

Dale, I would hate to see you miss out on a fun Hodaka engine rebuild! It probably only needs seals which is all easy stuff. You will be amazed how easy it is to work on and how clever the engine design is. This is all part of the Hodaka experience and I recommend going for it!

Max

PS--A workshop manual from Paul is always a good idea.

Dale,
I was in the same situation as you not very long ago and did decide to do the rebuild myself. I have done several now and love doing them. I recommend it for sure.
I also will second Clarence's comment on your access to great builders right there in Spokane. Ron Liddle does awesome work and has done my cylinder bores, cranks and also shift cover rebuilds.
Dale

Welcome aboard. A bottom end rebuild for seals, bearings & bushings is not difficult to do. Don't let the fear of the unknown, i.e. I've never split a tranny in half, scare you off. There are not that many parts in the tranny and it's not going to explode like a pocket watch or some other scary image in your mine.

The tranny is simply designed and easy to work on. So if your leaking oil or fear that you have leak down you can test it. I don't think you do, based upon your description of riding it all Summer back and forth to work.

AZ is right by asking whAt are your expectations. Are you having issues that would require an engine rebuild? Do you have oil that leaks out when you fill it any time the bike is leaning over on the kick stand? Did yo recently notice a sudden drop in power? Are you seeing more smoke than usual coming out the exhaust?

Have you recently cleaned out your exhaust pipe? Have you opened the top end and inspected it for excessive wear? All of these things would be indicators of which part, top or bottom end, or both, need work. So let's start with basics.

And yes, you are in an area where you will find quite a number of Hodaka Warriors and mechanics. I live in Santa Fe and there is no one here. I did mine completely with the help from people on this forum. ; D Vctor

Alright thanks guys. I think after all the comments I will start with seals all around and wait for a real need to do a complete rebuild. There are no leaks and the "wet" side of the motor seems good. I will take a look at the exhaust and both wheel hubs. Last question for now, would I be safe to assume that the bike bogging going up long steep hills is a carb adjustment?
Dale

"bogging going up long steep hills". Remember you are on a 125. It will probably lose some rpm.

If you are getting a bog that sounds like "whaaaaaaa", it could be a lean condition. Careful attention to throttle position when this occurs can help diagnose the carburetor component that needs attention. There are a number of good posts how to jet properly.

There is also a very good chance that the exhaust pipe is clogged up. A partially plugged pipe will drive you nuts. Have you burnt the pipe out? If not, do you have a fire pit? It might be time to have a Wombat cookout...

^What Dale says about the exhaust pipe is certainly true. I would first try cleaning the spark arrestor. A few weeks ago my ACE 100 started bogging terribly. I pulled the spark arrestor, reamed it out as best I could with a coat hanger, and reinstalled it. Improvement was pretty dramatic. Pulled the spark arrestor again and this time hung it from a tree limb with the same coat hanger and blasted it for about 15 minutes with a propane torch. Let it cool, then blasted it again with compressed air. I've put about 200 miles on my Hodie since then and it's running like a new bike. (PS: Be sure to wear a dust mask or the equivalent while doing this -- not a good idea to inhale those carbon bits.)

I had a similar experience with an 03 Wombat. I bought it and immediately pulled the engine (never cranking it) and rebuilt it. When I got the engine completed I reinstalled it and fired it up. Would not wind up so I started jetting with no success. I put another 03 pipe on it that was good and it took off like a bandit. So I burned out the pipe and that was the problem.

Dale (Dvorak) or gang, tell me more about the Wombat cookout and using a fire pit to de-carbonize your pipe. I have said fire pit and Wombat pipe that I'm building a new header pipe for. Maybe it needs a clean out before I do the fabrication. Any tips on cooking times and such?

Maxie

I've done this a couple times with great results.

I've found that you want to get the pipe to a dull red color, which would be sufficient enough to burn out any carbon quickly. Dull red can also be described as just barely turning red.

Take off the heat shield, and remove the spark arrestor. Build fire, place pipe on top. Light fire. When the pipe stops smoking, (you'll know what I mean when you see it), adjust it's position in the fire so that the entire pipe goes through the heating process. The whole process takes me about 20 - 30 minutes.

You can also stick your spark arrestor in the fire too, but I would leave the chromed end sticking out so that it doesn't heat up as much. It will discolor the chrome if heated too much. But it will burn out the carbon before it discolors if you leave it out a bit.

You don't need a bonfire.. just a hot dog roasting fire will do... You only want to get the pipe hot enough to burn carbon. Better to undercook, than overcook for a first time out until you see the actual process.

$0.02

Roger

Thanks Roger, I'm gathering up some necessities such as hot dogs, beer, marshmallows, Wombat pipe, oak and elm. Might as well kill two birds with one stone. A report soon.

Maxie

Max,
I am planning to cook an 01 Dirt Squirt pipe in the next few days. I will post some pictures. It is just as Roger explained, but the pictures are always a little funny to see.
Dale

A word of caution...don't put any of the Hodaka canister-type spark arrestors/mufflers in the fire along with your 175 or 250 pipes. I can't believe I'm actually admitting this, but I melted a perfectly good one for a 250SL that I was restoring some time ago. Doh! Otherwise, I can vouch for the bar-b-que method. I always burn the pipes of any bike I restore. I kinda keep the hot dogs and burgers at a safe distance, though. Also, this is probably not something that would go over well with neighbors in a housing tract. Anymore, a Wombat cookout would probably bring the local police, the fire department, the EPA, Homeland Security and Obama himself down on your head.

Had a little time today to burn out a Dirt Squirt pipe. I spent about 1 hour start to finish. I will now clean it, do a little sanding and it will be ready for some paint.

Ah, thanks Dale, it looks to be pretty straightforward. I'm gathering sticks for the procedure now that you have bolstered my confidence!

Maxie

WOW!! Thanks everyone. I will try a Wombat cookout once I get a chance with the weather around here. A little nervous with open flames around here until we get just a bit more rain. I really love this group of owners, everyone is so willing to help with the knowledge they have gained. In response to ddvorak and throttle position, it did not matter were it was at so I am inclined to think the exhaust will be my starting point.