The Hodaka Club Forum

Hey folks, newbie here. I picked up an early Dirt Squirt a while back as a way to spend more time in the garage. It's actually a decent restoration candidate, but I'm not a total purist and just want it to look presentable. I stripped the bike and am having the frame powder coated a close-ish colour. I expect I'll have a few questioms for the group but right now I'm hoping for some ideas on cleaning the engine side cases. They are in nice shape but seem to be peeling. They must have been clear coated or perhaps an aluminum coating of some kind. Is that original? How best to strip this off and what to do once its off - what coating to put on it or just leave it?

Thanks,
RLW

Pretty sure the original cases are just aluminum, but though I bought mine new, I don't remember anymore. Ball burnishing has been recently discussed here as a way to produce outstanding case parts. Search the forum for the term "ball burnished." It was only a couple weeks back.

I media blasted my aluminum steering head casting and didn't like the result. Too dull. So I painted it with Argent Silver wheel paint, and now it looks new. It also looks painted. On that part it works. On the side covers I think it might look to glitzy. Check out the ball burnish, which is done professionally. Stuff looks amazing.

March 17 this year. Thread called "motor casings" by Bullfrog. Photos included. Take a look. I would post a link if I knew how.

The clutch and shift covers were painted originally - I think.
Paul sells the correct paint, and of course you can get close with other stuff.
As for stripping, regular stripper works fine (Kleen Strip, etc.) then elbow grease to get them real tidy.
Polishing looks cool, and you don't have to worry about scratching the paint or gas ruining it - but doesn't look "correct"
Sounds like a cool project - I sure love the Dirt Squirts. Keep the questions coming, lots of knowledgeable folks here that are willing to share.
Laurie

Thanks for the feeback, guys. Ball burnishing sounds and looks like a great idea, however I'm located in a services deprived area. But I'll strip the case covers and do a bit of a polish before I decide whether or not to either paint or clearcoat.

This won't be a concours garage queen or a factory correct bike. I just want it looking close to original and rideable once in a while on a nice day. Truth is, I'm WAY too big for the bike but I recall it fondly from when I was young.

RLW

RLW,

I am a HVAC tech by profession and we use a product in the field to clean and remove oxidation from aluminum condenser coils. Mixed properly it does a very good job of cleaning and brightening the center cases. If a return to factory look is desired you can take the cleaner and nylon scrub pads and brushes to them. ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES AND USE A RESPIRATOR if doing this inside as the cleaner is acidic. It will remove paint as well so use caution. The cleaners are available at your local HVAC supply.

Thanks for the tip Charlie. I used a specialty cleaner for cleaning my house air conditioner coils once, I think it was called Cal-blast. I see the Nu-Calgon company has a bewildering list of similar cleaners - is there one you would specifically recommend?

Thanks again,
Robert

Hey Charlie--Good timing on this round of discussions. I just stripped the engine cases of parts on the "Day One" project and it's time to remove gunk and paint. Is there a version of that cleaner that can be purchased at the local hardware store or other outlets? Small town, no HVAC stuff here.
Thanks!

Max

If you go back two issue of the Resonator Volume2 #14 on page 17. Lee Fabry did a write up on Ball Burnishing with the name address and phone of the place were he gets it done. He mention you can box up and send your parts to them. This is where my parts were done also as there are no places here in San Diego.

Kelly

I have used various NuCalgon products with good results in the field, but the product I have been using for the MC stuff is called Black Max. It isn't as acidic as some others. You might google Black Max coil cleaner and see if you can buy it online. Just remember, this stuff is potent. Follow the directions carefully when diluting. I use an 8 (water) to 1 (cleaner) ratio for clean degreased parts.
I tend to gravitate to processes that I can do "in house". In retrospect it probably would have been cheaper to farm out the work than buying all the equipment I have but where's the fun in that?

Thanks Charlie--Black Max stuff is available online and reasonably priced. I'll field test some soon. ( That name has a nice ring to it.)--later!

Max

hodakamax wrote:Thanks Charlie--Black Max stuff is available online and reasonably priced. I'll field test some soon. ( That name has a nice ring to it.)--later!

Max

Max, that would make a good write up for the Resonator. This is this stuff Bob is always looking for.
Kelly

Hey Kelly--Maybe we could get Bob to throw a challenge out and we could all test some product along that line. I can never get the center cases to look very good on my few restorations. Danny's restoration project (Tired Combat Wombat) is looking extra good but looks to be a little more involved. Just thinkin'

Max

PS--Thanks for the info on Ball Burnishing, I might give your guy a call. I did look up the Resonator article--very interesting.

Were your cases painted black, or are they aluminum color and it's clear coat that is flaking off? You can go to a Paint or Big Box store and get some paint stripper in a spray can. I used it on my gas tank. Spray it on, let it loosen the paint/clear coat, and scrape it off. Pretty simple.

Then you can clean the cases with some lacquer thinner and either repaint with black engine paint or with engine clear coat, which ever is what it had. It needs to be engine paint so it's heat resistant. Make sure you build up either one slowly and carefully so you don't get runs. When you've finished you can even wax it and buff it to get it to really shine! ; D Victor

Engine paint is usually rated up to 500 or 600 degrees. The center cases are unlikely to see more than 200 degrees. My old engine was painted black ( by me with rattle can for reasons lost to time) but are still black today, forty years later, and the t was just black semi gloss, not engine paint.

Nearly all paints are heat resistant to an impressive degree, even if they don't say so. Up to 250, most any quality automotive rattle can paint is heat resistant enough and then some. Besides, most engine enamel needs multiple heat cycles to cure the paint, whereas standard paint doesn't. The last time I heat cured engine enamel, it needed a half hour at 200, a half hour at 400, and a half hour at 600 degrees, with cooling time between cycles. I thought that was a bit excessive, but it is what the paint called for. And it didn't turn out any better really than just automotive paint.

Where I have found high temp paint useful is on cast iron turbo charger housings. I recently clear coated a new turbo for my Dodge Cummins, and it turned out nicely, turning just a bit on the light Carmel side when cured. Darker than pure clear, but then it sees temps around 1,000 degrees from time to time.

Well cleaned and decreased, and primed with adhesion promoter, any semi gloss or low gloss black should work.

@Viclioce - mine appear to have been painted with an aluminum coloured paint. Just the case sides, so I assume this was someone "freshening up" a number of years ago. I'm certain it will come off with no challenge and I'll decide then whether to clear coat it or just give it a polish and call it a day.

@Arizona Shorty - I recently had a turbo charger housing ceramic coated black. Looked fantastic. Then I put a turbo blanket over it and will likely never see it again. Huh.

RLW