The Hodaka Club Forum

No battery needed. The bike has a stater style ignition that provides spark and electrical current when the engines is spun over and running. Headlight and tail light can function without a battery but it acts as a current buffer in the system. If you plan on returning it to stock you gotta lot of parts to track down. I would concentrate on getting it running. The other items can be budget busters before you ever get it started.

I was going to offer you one as well. The turn signal relay also mounts to the battery box (red arrow). And there’s a 2” long 13mm spacer with 6mm threads, which holds a bracket to mount the pipe to the upper frame tube(blue arrow). And a U bolt bracket holds the bottom center of the pipe to the right frame tube as well! (yellow arrow) Victor

Awesome thanks for that diagram.
Got the carb out. Looks fairly clean inside aside from a lot of oil... at least to my untrained eye, is the gasket supposed to be rigid or is it supposed to be flexible like rubber? Mine is pretty rigid almost a fiberglass-like material. Do I need to fully remove all the brass/copper bits? Before cleaning or is this deconstructed enough? I bought some carb cleaner and some brakekleen. Spray it all down in a sink? Rinse with water? Let dry? I don’t have an air compressor. Would canned air work in a pinch? Thanks again all for continued support

Just an update:
Got my hands on a luggage rack in pretty decent shape. Got a spark plug tester and I am getting a spark; I also bought a compression tester and took my own compression test. I was getting more in the 80lb range than 60lb, I don’t know if my cleaning of the carburetor affected anything or not, but it looks like im for sure doing a top end rebuild.

When you do a compression test, you need to hold the throttle wide open & keep kicking until it stops climbing. Is that the way you checked it? 80 psi still doesn’t sound like much.

Did you get a tool box with the rear rack?

Victor

Good advice from Victor relative to testing the compression. Also the cylinder and rings in an engine that has been sitting for years may have dried out considerably affecting the sealing surface. Once a little oil has found its way to the cylinder wall compression can increase significantly. A compression test on an engine that has been sitting may not provide an accurate reading.

viclioce wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 4:30 pm When you do a compression test, you need to hold the throttle wide open & keep kicking until it stops climbing. Is that the way you checked it? 80 psi still doesn’t sound like much.

Did you get a tool box with the rear rack?

Victor

No I’ll have to try it that way. I opened petcock, pushed in the choke, and kicked away until it stopped, I did the test twice and got the same result. I’ll def try the throttle today, and no I didn’t get a tool kit as of yet.

Don’t need to open petcock. Better left shut.

Tool box, mounts to the rack. I may have a spare if you need one. I also have a full set of Toad turn signals. Victor

viclioce wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 6:27 am Don’t need to open petcock. Better left shut.

Tool box, mounts to the rack. I may have a spare if you need one. I also have a full set of Toad turn signals. Victor

Good to know, thanks for all your input, it is very appreciated. I’d defiantly be interested in a toolbox and turn signals if you have any to spare. DM me an invoice

I’ll look thru what I have left, and PM you some pics. I actually cleaned the garage today! Victor