ignition rebuild service?

[David.Weaver]

My trusty 1973 Dirt Squirt has failed me. I've owned this bike for over 25 years and it has ALWAYS started with under three kicks. This summer it failed to generate any spark and I am stumped (along with a fellow who's much smarter than me) as to why. Together, we have
replaced the points
replaced the condensor (and tried two NOS units)
replaced the exciting coil (NOS part from my stash)
replaced the ignition coil (new from Hodaka-Parts.com)
replaced spark plug
My wise friend also performed some electrical resistance tests on the exciting coils and got inconsistent results...and that was the final straw for him.

From what I've read in the forum we have tried all the popular solutions. I am not wise with electricity. Is there someone who's a whiz with these systems to whom I can send the stator plate and all the attached parts to confirm everything is working as it should and rebuild if needed?

[Joe Ormonde]

One thing that will mess up a lot of guys is that on a Hodaka Black is Positive and Blue is Ground. Joe

[viclioce]

One thing to check is to clean the points. Fine sand paper works well. The NOS points have a coating on them which prevents the points from corroding while sitting on the shelf. I’ve done this a few times. Put NOS points on the stator and forgot to clean them before trying to start. I’d kick & kick & kick and get no or extremely weak spark. Clean the points an Bam!!! A nice bright spark!!!

The second thing to check is to make sure you did not get solder overflow from the wires to the outer edge of the condenser. This can cause the spark to ground out. Victor

[David.Weaver]

Thank you; I'll check these details on the wires and points.

Now how about this oddity: my wise friend attempted to solder the new condenser and said he could not get solder to stick to it! He tried three types of solder and save the connection points a sanding. Has anyone had this weird problem? And what's the best type of solder to use for this job?

[socalhodaka]

You want to contact Greg Watkins at California Hodaka. (626) 324-0303
Also check out and subscribe on YouTube,
https://youtube.com/@Socalhodaka?si=nBN5CWyZtHXJSlaU

[matt glascock]

Inspect each and every wire from point to point including the wiring within the stator. Check every wire throughout the entire wiring harness for continuity and inspect visually. Chances are a wire got pinched somewhere along the harness and is either broken beneath the insulation or the insulation was fractured and the wire is shorting out. Also, on the forum, there is a nicely described method of testing the main coil. You described installing a new spark plug. Did you install another new plug? Even a brand new part may be defective. Did you isolate and test the function of the kill button? The wiring system is magnificently simple on the Dirt Squirt. A methodical point-by-point approach should reveal the culprit.

[viclioce]

Tin, that is coat with solder, all the ends of the wires connecting to the condenser. There are 2 metal tabs on the top of the condenser. The longer one folds over and acts to retain the wires so they don’t get pulled. The shorter one folds over the tips of the wires and is joined to the wires with solder and compression. Compress first. Then heat up the metal so the solder sticks to it. Otherwise you’ll have a cold solder connection. Victor

[David.Weaver]

I tested two spark plugs...neither had spark. And yes, I removed the kill switch connections to isolate it. My friend commented on the fact that my DS had a lighting coil (I dunno; it's always been there even though it never had lights) and that all of the wires for the lighting coil. exciter coil and points were soldered into the original condenser (again, I dunno; it's always been that way). He removed the exciter coil to simplify the troubleshooting and still could not get spark. I did speak with SoCal Hodaka and plan to send Greg my parts...I need professional help.

[matt glascock]

Smart. Greg will have you sorted out quickly and without frustration.