Twin Rat Restoration

[efkruger]

This post is a continuation of my post W.A.R. basically. In the WAR post, I showed two model 93 frames that I repaired by welding. I also showed my new paint booth that I made out of a small shipping container. In this post I will show the paint booth in action and the frames that I repaired being painted and rebuilt into two, not just one Hodaka model 93A. I will continue to show the two bikes as I progress on their full blown restoration. Nothing on these bikes will be left untouched. Every part to the smallest lockwasher will have been restored. I have spent months getting the individual parts ready for this Restoration. I have posted pics in previous posts showing parts that have been re chromed and or zinc plated. In this first pic you will see my new paint booth that I made after I just painted a 93A frame. It worked great. The fan really sucks out the paint overspray so well that you almost do not need a respirator. The paint job had absolutely no dust or contamination from dirt in the air. I have several filters to filter the air coming in to the booth. I was pleased with the professional job that I was able to do. The paint I bought from Strictly Hodaka worked great. It does not require activator, so its easy to mix and you can easily touch up scratches if they occur. I used my old Binks model 62 paint gun that I have used for 30 years to paint with. At this time, I am also writing a book, and I am in spiritual warfare with a Demon possessed Mexican woman, Ha! so I am very busy, and posting new pics about this project may be slow for now. Enjoy the pics Gentlemen.
Dad Gum pic is rotated wrong, wished I knew how to fix that

[efkruger]

does anybody know how to rotate pics? let me know please if you do. Zoom up on the pics and you can see the paint job that I did in the new paint booth I made.

[efkruger]

Here is the first frame after I painted it. Starting assembly of this baby with swingarm, and rear shocks. Those shocks are the ones I assembled using Westek manufacturing shock bodys and original 93 components such as rechromed springs, repolishing upper eyelet, etc. There is a previous post concerning these shocks and how I assembled them. They turned out really nice and just about 98% authentic Rat rear shocks.

[efkruger]

Coming along here with engine in frame and a few other parts put on. Man I am really excited about this project. I am starting a repolish and repair on the rear fender right now. The bike had been flipped over, probably while doing a wheelie and the rear fender had some damage on the very end. I have been able to repair it very well now, and I will polish it to a chrome like finish and then install it next. I will post a pic of it when I do. If anybody has a 93 fender they would sell let me know please, I need another one for number two bike.Thanks Gentlemen.

[efkruger]

Ok Gentlemen. If any one needs some of those udrive rivets. You can buy them on ebay for about $1.97 for a bag of 100 with postage included. If you buy them elsewhere I think they charge 2 bucks each and then postage is extra. If anyone needs a few just email me your address and I will give you some for free. I don't think I will need more than a dozen at the least. Ha! These are the little rivets that hold your serial number plate on. I just installed mine on the newly painted frame. Look at that date, June 1971, I lived in the Marshall Islands then. Wow that brings back some memories.

[matt glascock]

Coming along nicely. Just a suggestion. Consider extending the swing arm a couple inches. The bike will handle better with the slightly longer wheel base and you'll be able to keep the front wheel on the ground. Not important if you are not intending to ride/race the bike.

[hodakamax]

Ah, the project IS coming along nicely! What fun!

Maxie

[viclioce]

The shocks look really Great! Can’t wait to hear how they function as well! You’re on your way now! Hope the rest goes smoothly! Victor

[efkruger]

On these two bikes I am going to leave them as original. Another 93 bike that I am going to rebuild will be a rider. That bike I will lengthen the swingarm. I used to ride a rat when I was 14 years old. I remember how the bike handled back then. Yes it needed a lengthened swingarm!

[matt glascock]

Mine was the best wheelie bike on the planet. Great for chicks...not for racing.

[efkruger]

Yesterday I repaired this rear fender. It was damaged on the very rear end but I was able to fix it just about good as new. Then I polished it on my bench polisher. Look at that shine! I can almost shave in that finish. That's a lovely combination, shiny chrome look with bright red. Really beautiful. Now I will get to work on the front fender next.

[matt glascock]

What did you use for the polishing compound?

[efkruger]

That's an excellent question. I have used for years Polish O Ray sold by Brownells Gun Smith supply company in Montezuma IA.
Here is a pic of the most coarse grit I used. Its a 140 grit that you use for the deepest scratches. Then you go to the finer grits like 220, 400, 500 and then finish it with the 555 polishing grits. I actually have not used those last two compounds on this fender because I ran out of them and did not have any. I have ordered them just today and will use them when they come in. With them I will get a super lustrous polish. The shine I have here was done with some polishing compound I had from Harbor freight. It did all right but when I get the Brownells 555 it will be the better shine. I will post a pic of it then. The fender bolts and nuts are only hand tightened if anybody noticed. That's so I can take it off easily when it comes in. I used to be a gun refinisher years ago and I have some polishing experience. That's my polishing bench I made years ago. That's an eight inch loose Muslin wheel from Brownells also. Thanks Gentlmen.

[matt glascock]

Excellent. I'm very familiar with Brownells gun accessories - particularly cleaning and bore-sighting gear. I didn't know about the polishing compound line but that fender looks great. Thank you for hipping me to it. Gonna get me some!!

[efkruger]

I have ordered an eight inch hard felt polishing wheel and some of the Brownells 555 polishing compounds. With these I should be able to make that fender shine even more. I will post some pics when I do. Thanks

[efkruger]

This afternoon I repaired some damage to a 93 Model front fender. Then I gave it a good polishing. I finished it with some Brownells 555 white polishing compound using a stitched 8 inch wheel. It came out really nice. Like to where you could use it to shave in. The rear fender that I did the other day I will give it a polishing with the 555 tomorrow so they will match in lustre. The 555 compound I found in one of my storage containers today. It had been there for years but it was still good. This week I will get in the 8 inch hard felt polishing wheel that I ordered the other day, and I will give both fenders another good working over with that wheel and some more 555 compound. That combination should give me a luster and brilliance like ornamental chrome. I will post a pic when I do this using that hard felt wheel. This fender was tweaked pretty good. It had a couple of kinks in it also where it was tweaked, but they came out pretty good. Turned out pretty nice. Good fenders are hard to find especially those rear ones. They got buggered up doing those wheelies!

[matt glascock]

Amazing! I don't have a nice polishing set up like yours, but I wonder it a similar result is possible with a hand-held drill mounted wheel?

[efkruger]

I also painted several Rat 93 air cleaner assemblies this morning. I used some of Mr. Paul Stannards paint. I really like it. Goes on very well and is easy to touch up with a brush or using my Badger air brush. Lovely color and if there is an imperfection it can be polished out easily. Just let the paint dry for several days. The paint does not use an activator, only a reducer, so it needs a few days to fully dry and harden. You can handle it in a few hours but to be good and hard, let it dry for a few days. Excellent product it is. Next I will put that decal on in a few days using the water and squeege method to move it around before it takes hold.

[efkruger]

Yes, There are many ways to do polishing. First, Harbor freight sells polishing kits that work well. These kits have polishing pads that you use with an electric drill. They even have several grits of polishing compound. If you have scratches and or damage, remove them first by hand sanding with a 220 grit emery paper using WD40 as a wet lubricant, then use 400 grit paper, then use a 600 grit paper, and then finish it with the pad and polishing compound. That will give you a decent shine. You could even go finer on emery paper like 1000 grit before the final polish. Just takes elbow grease and a little work. Be sure to remove all scratches thoroughly before you go to a finer grit.
Another way, is to use scotchbrite polishing pads on a drill or grinder. Harbor Freight sells these also. 3M makes the best scotch brite pads though. Start out with a coarse and go up to very fine. Removing the previous grits scratches as you go. Then you can finish it with some fine polishing compound.

[matt glascock]

Hey, thanks for the info! We just got a H.F. store in town ( )so I'll check it out. There is no question that's mighty fine finish work you have demonstrated. Say, do you use a clear coat or any other preservation measures to protect the decals after placement. Speaking of placement, I've heard of this water sliding technique but I don't know the technical details. I leave the decals on the backing paper and use the eyeball/press/hope technique - successfully for the most part. If you could describe the technique and maybe include a picture or two, I'd really appreciate it. I'm about to redo a Combat Wombat air box and would like it to come out nicely. Thank you!!

[efkruger]

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[efkruger]

Yes, In a day or two when the paint is good and dry I will spray water on the area where the decal is going to be placed. Then I will put the decal on and position it where I want it then squeegee the water out and there it is. I have done it before on my store front window glass with decals and its the only way to go. The film of water between the decal and the surface its going on allows you to position the decal where you want it. I will do a post and pics on it. This will be the first time I have done it on an air cleaner cover. But I think it should work good. I will keep you posted, literally. Also, I have never used clear coat on decals. You certainly could however if you wish. But, even with my Bultacos they originally did not have clear coat on the decals so I don't use it either. Having said that though, if I remember, my friend Bruce Reynolds, owner of BR Bultaco in San Diego California, clear coats his gas tanks with decals on. They look really nice too. Thanks

[matt glascock]

Great. Thanks so much. I guess I always wondered if the water would interfere with the effectiveness of the adhesive because I never really knew what the adhesive's solubility was. Apparently not water .

[rlkarren]

When I worked at an autobody shop many years ago, we would put a little dish soap in with the water to break the surface tension of the water while placing decals. This allowed the water to flow over the surface without any beading.

Also, it sounds like the paint Paul sells is an acrylic enamel. A single stage paint that is very hard and durable. I believe the original paint was also an acrylic enamel.

If the water beads when applied, try a little dish soap to see if it helps.

$0.02

Roger

[efkruger]

Yes the paint Paul sells is an Acrylic Enamel but it does not use an activator. The single stage DuPont paint I have used for my Bultacos uses an activator that causes the paint to harden very quickly and it is hard and tough when its dried. Pauls paint I have noticed does not harden as quick. It does not use an activator either. You just use a reducer. But I think Pauls paint is very easy to use when touching up scratches and paint damage. Just apply out of the can and it dries quickly. But when I went to polish a blemish out of the air cleaner cover, I noticed my finger nail made a scratch in the paint when I was polishing the paint. And it did it through a cloth. It seems it was not fully hard yet. So I will let parts dry very well before I do anything to them.
You are right about the dish soap, most professionals who apply decals use it. They put a few drops in a about two pints of water. And that's what I will try with my decals.