Slow going off the line

[sparkyj]

Hydraulic Jack,
Thanks. I've got most of this. And the holder is on the way.
And may even have a a flywheel puller somewhere. Looks like a wrecking bar, block of wood and a church key right?
Just makin' sure.

[Bullfrog]

Ooooooo, not funny. No wrecking bars, blocks of wood, etc. No. But if you decide to go that route. A two to four pound sledge hammer is faster at getting to the same end result.

Geez we entertain ourselves easily!

Ed
PS: A church key IS a handy thing to have around.

[sparkyj]

ya just kidding about the wrecking bar

[Hydraulic Jack]

Looks like this:

http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/product-p/203000.htm

Don't use anything not made specifically for pulling this flywheel. The results can be expensive.

[sparkyj]

Got the clutch out and just going through parts. Clutch pinion bushing seems sticky. Good call on that. See the clutch pack below. What does this wear pattern tell you? Time for an upgrade- maybe to the newer type clutch disk set? There seems to be 2 part numbers at least that will work for this year: 924006 or 934006. And is it necessary to replace the metal disks if your are keeping the same original design friction discs? And I have the single spring set up (early Ace 100). Is there a benefit to the double spring set up? Lastly, will 20 gage stainless wire work for rethreading the screws? Thanks for looking and I appreciate your comments.

[Hydraulic Jack]

Wear pattern: not sure. Almost looks like they have been power sanded with a disc, but this could just be debris tracking the discs. Either case, they are done.

Steel discs: dead on arrival. Don't reuse them. These are corroded past using again and could be a good part of why you don't get rolling in first gear. Friction surface is reduced to a fraction of the original surface, and I would not be surprised to find they are too thin at this point.

New and improved discs: I would get a complete set of friction and steel discs, and would use the new style. In this case methodology and materials have improved in making clutch discs. Use the new ones. Since they are available for your specific clutch, I would use the ones listed for that clutch.

Springs: singles are fine. You aren't building a drag racer.

Use whatever gauge wire will easily pass through the holes in the screws. Some folks have used nylok nuts successfully, instead of safety wire. I haven't tried them.

Order a new bushing, and if you don't have shims, get a selection to use when resetting the clutch free play.

[sparkyj]

New specs after checking this am:
Spring height: .73 to .75 (using manual mic and set of old eyes!)

Friction disks: not perfectly flat but not sure if this is typical. #2 has a burr on inner teeth. Problem? Thickness: .073.

Clutch Plates: all flat except for middle one. See picture.

[sparkyj]

Hey HydraulicJack, I posted too soon, must have been typing when your reply can in.

Thanks for your reply.
Will update the set.

I have a question, (and I may answer it myself when I start to put it all back together)
How do you get the clutch pack spacing correct, relative to the screws and screw turns, without getting it too tight or out of balance?
Im scratching my head when reading the manual re: "Reassembling Clutch Assembly". After you position the hub on the springs, you place the cage over hub "ventilating groove uppermost" ... then there is a bewildering alignment procedure I have not yet gotten my head around. Hopefully between now and receiving discs I'll figure it out.

Looking forward to going forward! heh...
Thanks!

[Bullfrog]

If you are a member of the Hodaka Club, search through the Resonator Revisited issues for the article on Blue Printing your clutch - it will be a real aid. A complete new set of clutch innards (friction disks and steel plates) is a good idea. But if you are planning on the throwing away the steel plates you've got . . . put 'em in an envelope and send 'em to me. I'll take care of proper disposal for you. (<--- and I'm not kidding . . . I'll take 'em if you don't want 'em.)

I think .030" safety wire is the factory recommendation, but for non-competition use and proper safety wire technique, .020" wire should be OK.

I'll review the clutch assembly instructions to try to discern what is missing and leaving you with questions. The 7 clutch screws get tightened TIGHT. There is NO adjustment by way of the 7 screws . . . did I mention that you should tighten them to TIGHT?

I won't be able to do a manual review tonight. But I'll try to do that soon.

Ed
PS: I'm not sure what you mean by the question about "getting clutch pack spacing correct". You get the right parts and you put 'em in . . . there is no "spacing" procedure or adjustment.

[Bullfrog]

DOH! I forgot to mention, the wear pattern shown on the friction disks seems normal. But there is enough wear that replacement would indeed be a good thing.
Ed

[Bill2001]

I did the shift control shaft springs weekend and inspected the clutch for parts I'll need for it when I split the case later this year. Turns out that the clutch assembly is new, so I won't need any clutch parts. I have a set of the SH "new and improved" clutch linings, and I plan to blueprint the clutch when I do the bottom end. I've heard that the new linings are much improved. I'm really easy on the clutch, but on a small displacement dirt bike you need to play in the friction-zone a lot so a good clutch is a plus.

[sparkyj]

I can imagine with the new design you get an increase in oil flow.
Is this the "blueprint' ?
http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/Articles.asp?ID=252#link3

[Bullfrog]

No, that isn't the article I was referring to. That hot tip is focused on the procedures required to assure smooth clutch operation with fully threaded clutch screws.

I know there is a directory of the articles in the Resonator Revisited . . . but I've forgotten where to find it. The full blue printing article was published in the Resonator Revisited.

Ed

[matt glascock]

If you go to the Strictly Hodaka main page and hit the FAQ tab thence to the "how to and technical tips" section, you'll find the "clutch compatibility and blueprinting" tip. Follow it to a t and you too will have a buttery-smooth clutch. I've done it many times. Highly recommended.

[Bullfrog]

Matt, that is the article which sparkyj has already found - and it is not the full bore blue printing the clutch article from the Resonator Revisited. The full bore blue printing article reviews how to address all the "issues" which came with the clutch as it was built. It helps you get the clutch to work the way the engineers intended for it to work.

The article you and sparkyj have found probably ought to have been titled something like, "How to modify the clutch to work well with after-market clutch screws and nylock nuts" - because it doesn't address "wash-boarding" or sharp stamping burrs on the steel plates.

Ed

[Bill2001]

Ed, the Clutch Blueprinting article is in Vol-1 Issue-4 of the Resonator. Page 3.
The Index is online at the Hodaka Club website on the Resonator back issues.

In this article I don't recall seeing the recommendation that the clutch cover have additional holes drilled for improved oil flow. Is that still a good recommendation ?

[matt glascock]

Thanks for the clarification, Captain. Indeed you are again correct. I referred to the Resonator article, the tip here on SH and the Wombat Shop manual for my rebuilds with great results - a success likely enhanced yet more when you reached my shed in Cedar Falls, Iowa with the long arm of sensibility and wrested the quivering Dremel from my grasp - just in the nick of time

[Bullfrog]

Matt, back away from the Dremel. Don't make me yell at you.

Ed
PS: Thanks for the giggle!

[Bullfrog]

While drilling the extra holes in the clutch cover IS a good modification . . . I'm not sure that anyone other than a really machine-aware racer or trials rider would notice a difference. So if you have the skills and equipment to drill the holes . . . go for it. If properly locating the holes and drilling them squarely (deburring, etc.) is going to be a stretch for your equipment and skills then I'd recommend that you use the time riding rather than modifying the machine.
Ed

[Bill2001]

I'll do the extra oil holes when I blueprint the clutch. My local shop has an indexing table on their mill and can get each hole located precisely. I've already thunk out the "how".

[Bullfrog]

Alright! You've got a good plan!
Ed

[matt glascock]

Hey!! Somebody boosted all of my mandrels...CAPTAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Bullfrog]

Huh??????????

[matt glascock]

Those are the little bits for my Dremel.

[Bill2001]

Mandrels are in season now. Easy to get more...