Shifter Spring Repacement

[Gary G]

Does anyone have the procedure to replace the shifter springs that I can use.

[Dale]

Gary,
I just did a cut and paste from the Yahoo group site. I had posted this recently over there... This is my take on a procedure that has been documented by several others that have a lot more experience than me, but this is what has worked for me.
Dale

First, there is no need to split cases to replace your shift shaft springs with a new shift kit and o-ring. In fact, you do not even need to drain the oil. Also, the o-ring is the last item to come out and the first to go back in.

You will need:
Shop manual. If you do not have one, I would recommend ordering one.
New shift kit
New o-ring
New circlip (good idea)
New gasket for the clutch side cover (Most likely)
Small screwdriver (to pop off the tiny circlip)
Small magnet (to extract the springs and pieces off of the shift shaft)
Special tool (for installing the new circlip) (909524 early models or 989524 late models)
Holding tool (used to hold clutch, primary gear, magneto and countershaft sprocket) (909523)
Something to secure the shift shaft in the fully inward position. (I use a short piece of 1x2 wood with holes drilled into it that line up with the magnito cover screw holes on either side of the countershaft sprocket) If you use the method to lay the bike over on it's left side, then a 2x4 on the ground will work or you can use a second set of hands to assist you if available.

You can lay the bike on it's left side and perform the replacement without draining the oil. However, when I have done this procedure, I have done so in the shop, so I drain the oil and put the bike on a stand so that I can see what I am doing... Works either way.

1. Remove the magnito cover and secure the shift shaft all the way in against the counter shaft sprocket.
2. Rotate the kick starter back and place a screwdriver into the frame to hold it out of the way.
3. Remove the clutch cover, clutch and primary gear to gain access to the right side of the shift shaft.
4. Remove the circlip from the right side of the shift shaft. AFTER, covering all openings into the crankcase with a rag or tape.
5. Release the shift shaft from the left side.
6. Using a small magnet, reach in from the right side and extract the pieces from the end of the shift shaft. Slowly remove the shift shaft from the left side as you remove each piece until you have everything out. So after the circlip is off, you will remove the cap, right spring, washer, ball, washer and finally the left spring in that order.
7. Once all of the parts are out, you can fully extract the shift shaft. Check the shaft for wear and make sure that it is straight. (place it in a drill and spin it to check for wobble)
8. The o-ring is located just inside the shaft opening on the left side. Extract it with a pick. Then lube and install the new o-ring.
9. Carefully re-insert the shift shaft and secure it fully against the counter shaft sprocket.
10. Install new spring kit double checking the correct order as you go.
11. Install new circlip (special tool or homemade device reduces frustration here)
Now remember to remove rag or tape covering all openings to the crankcase.
12. Replace primary gear, clutch, clutch cover, magneto cover, oil? and you are good to go.

[Gary G]

Thanks for your help. I have the motor off and on the bench. Should be pretty straight forward with the manual and the instructions.

[rdbrooks14]

Great post with instructions.

FYI. I suggest a small pocket knife to remove circlip over screw driver. Nothing works better that I have found and I think the shop manual shows knife.

Also dont skip covering hole with shop cloth to keep circlip from falling in crankcase. Right Ed?

Good luck. We all did this the first time once. I have since done it between motos in a race.

Bob in Md

[rtboone]

Dale

Just a few quick questions.
Can the control shaft be straightened if it has a wobble, or should it be replaced along with the new shift kit?
Will this procedure for changing the springs work with the 250 engines as well?

Thanks
Tom

[rdbrooks14]

Tom,

Replace the control shaft it if it is not straight would be my suggestion it will be problematic AT BEST if you try to straighten it. Its a 16 buck part


16- Item# /Fig.C - Hodaka Part# 904613 - Control shaft
Our Price: $15.95


The 250 has the same shifting setup yes. You just need to get the right springs et al... Look at the P/Ns on the diagrams on this site to see what is used in what.

http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/SearchRes ... p?Cat=1951

You should get the shop manual for sure. Not sure what bike you have but the 125 shop manual is great as is the 100 manual... Would give the blow by blow on this and more procedures with pictures.

Bob in MD

[Forrest]

Now here is a video I'd like to see.

[Dale]

Thanks Bob for the responses to Tom's questions. I have zero experience with 250's...

I also edited my original post to add the notes to cover things up prior to poping the circlip. Just in case someone looks at this post in the future...
Dale

[rdbrooks14]

Ed can attest to the circlip falling in the crankcase. It happened at Paul's place during the open house. What is WAY wilder than that is Chuck fished it out with a magnet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Amazing!!!

[Bullfrog]

Thank you sooo very much Bob for once again putting me in the position of saying, "Do what I say, not what I do."!

Yes, when working with control shaft components with the bike laid on its side, DO cover the surrounding area. You couldn't drop one of those circlips in one of those crankcase holes from 2" away if you tried . . . but when you pop one off the end of the control shaft it WILL go into one of the holes! (Since you already have the answer, you don't need to ask how I know, right?)

ALSO . . .

If you do cover the crankcase area properly, you have now changed the universal dynamics of the situation . . . and the clip will fly off and land somewhere in the vicinity of the floor/ground around the machine -- so if you are doing this job outside, you'd better have a spare clip don'tchaknow? If doing the job inside, a clean floor and someone holding a bath towel (or other curtain-like item) to control the flight path of the clip is a good idea.

FINALLY . . .

While replacement of a bent control shaft is the best idea, a decent craftsman can straighten one and re-use it . . . a potentially handy thing to know at the track.

Ed

[michael_perrett]

I carry a 3" magnet that is used for attaching the ground cable for stick welding in my truck. Powerfull enought to cause a aircraft carrier to veer off course. Nice when the clip heads off to the next county.
Mike