1968 Ace 100 Ignition Wiring

[JimmyG]

Ok this is not going as well as i hoped. My ignition has One single Blue wire Male,one Double Blue Wire Female, one single White wire male,one single Green wire female, one single Black wire female,one double Brown wire Female and Two double Red wires female. Do these colors ring a bell to anyone?? The ignition functions the way Roger discribed earlyer except for the night position. Also my main wiring harness colors are different too, This bike looks vertually untouched the wiring harness looks true right down to the brittle sheathing . I can figure that part out ok, but i could use some help identifying this Ignition switch, It bolts up just like it was stock as well. Got me stumped.

[JimmyG]

Also I cannot locate the Emergency Switch, I,m thinking theres not one.

[Bruce Young]

Hello, Jimmy, First the correct wiring diagram with color info and location and etc, is on Pauls web site just look to see where its posted on the site. Before that you will need to check the frame numbers to determine which model you realy have. Then got to diagram that is for that model. There are two diff types of round little bolt on switchs, on the front
where the key goes into it there are eather some numbers or a little design. Once that also is determined, you will get a better idea which exact model you have. You may find you have a diff. model than you thought, which could lead to the diff wiring colors and etc.

Don,,t worry too much, start with the basics and then work through the wiring info to
determine what might be wrong. Wiring should not be feared, just take you time and
make sure you mark each wire as you disconnect it from whatever. It will help when
going back together. Good luck and worry not someone out there will get you through this.
To help keep all your forum posts on the same orginal post line. That way we don,t have to go back and forth to find out what was already talked about. It will help. Thanks Bruce
Hodakaparts.com Idaho
By emergency switch, you mean kill switch, some bike did not come with them, only turned off the ign switch and also some people took them off the bikes as well. Be careful
to follow wiring diagram.

[JimmyG]

Ok, Problem solved, Someone soldered the wronge colored wires on one terminal and doubled up the green and white wire on the same terminal. Once I actually took the switch off all the correct symbles were right there on the back just as the wiring diagram shows, I just finished resoldering the right colors to the right terminal;s and all reads as it should. Funny how a bike that looked like it had never been touched could be so fouled up. Now I,m gonna correct the main wiring harness with the correct colors so it will be as should be, I appreciate everyones help on this and I,m not quit done with this thing so there might more questions Again Thanx. Jim.

[rlkarren]

The emergency switch is the toggle switch on the underside of the headlight bucket. There will be a hole if it's missing.

Sounds like you're on the right track. It didn't take me long to figure out my Ace 90 wiring just by tracing the diagram. I would encourage taking your time and making sure all the connectors are clean and tight as you trace them. It will save you much more time in the future in diagnosing possible future issues. On a positive note, while tracing the wires, you may discover why the wiring was altered in the first place.

[JimmyG]

Great Thanx, I,ll look under the Headlight Bucket tomorrow.

[rlkarren]

Jimmy,

I hope you haven't torn down too far yet. read this first!

I was looking at my Workshop Manual last night and discovered something very important. If you have a '68 Ace 100, I have a strong suspicion that it may be a very early Ace 100 and the wiring diagram we have been referencing is incorrect. I discovered that with the exception of an external ignition coil for the Ace 100, the early Ace 100's and Ace 90's shared the same diagram. The wiring Diagram at the SH main page is for later Ace 100's.

My workshop manual is an Ace 90 manual with a Supplement for Ace 100. Which is more or less the manual for the first Ace 100's. The wiring diagram illustrated for the Ace 100 in my manual is different from the diagram at the Tech tips section of the SH main page. You can verify that you have a early Ace 100 by the absence of the Emergency switch, and low frame/engine numbers. The first Ace 100's were produced in Summer of '67.

Anyway, IF I am correct and you have an early Ace 100, we have been giving you incorrect information. Your key switch should have:

1 black (single female connector) - connects to black from magneto
1 green (single female connector) - connects to green from magneto
1 white (single female connector) - connects to white to rectifier
1 blue (double female connector) - connects to blue from magneto and blue to main harness (headlight)
2 reds (double female connector) - does not matter which double connector you use but the pairs are:
1st connector: red to stop light switch and red to horn
2nd connector: red from rectifier and red from battery (positive terminal)
1 Brown (double female connector) connects to brown to stop light and brown to main harness (headlight)
1 blue (single female connector) connects to blue from battery (negative terminal)

Now the key switch:

Black to IG
Green and White to C1
both reds to C2
Brown to HL
blue to Bat

And the pole positions: (E is earth, or ground)

Off: IG to E
Day: Bat to E
Night:Bat to E and C2 to HL

I think you can see that your initial description of the key switch wires tell me you have an Early Ace 100. I'm sorry this created extra work for you but you also helped identify something I think some of us didn't know; Not all Ace's are the same and the early Ace 100's used the same diagram as the Ace 90 with the exception of the external Ignition coil. Anyway, I hope this helps. I'll scan the diagram for the early Ace100 and post it

[Bruce Young]

Hello Roger and Jimmy, great detective work. Welcome to the world of ACE,s, changes where done mid year, and sometimes only mention with in the Manual Modification section of each machine. One has to be careful, if working with the early ACE models.
It seems changes where made when supplies of a product ran out and something was found as a sub. or changes had to be made to correct problems. The issue you two found should go out as a warning to others working with ACE,s that extra special attention must be done before jumping into a problem. This is why the forum is so valuable.

To expand I would like when we each one of us makes the orginal post, always give the
eng and frame number and model info. Also the state the poster lives in. I think this would help cut extra typing in the computer when working out the problem for all to see. Sometimes these post get a little long and convoluted, and hard to follow from start to finish.

If we make a jump to new problem or question start a new post.

I think all posts sould be indexed into files so in the future things could be looked up easier,
IE; Eng. trans. electrical, carb. frame, forks, shocks, and etc. If we do the indexting now
it will help those in the future, remember preporation meets opertunity. This forum is a treasure trove for the future Hodaka world. Loosing the old forum points this out.

Thanks to all those whom contribute, keep it up, your help doe,s not go un-noticed.
Our little helping, is allowing the leader "PUAL" more time to help with parts and pieces and
helping use get our goods faster. And work on new suppliers, and other projects.

Thanks to all; Bruce Young Hodakaparts.com Idaho

[JimmyG]

Thanx Guys, This is exactly what I have, My wires match this exactly. For further reference my Frame# is A29057 and the motor# is P31566. I have all my wires correct but now the bike doesent start, I have intermittin Spark at the plug. As I have stated the bike did run befor I tore it down so I,m thinking I might have disturbed something in the magneto, I did change points as I had a new set. I,m starting there as well as checking coil resistance on all three, I do have a manual on CD that I think covers this but if anyone knows what the resistance should be on the three Coils I,d appreciate any input, Again thanx.

[rlkarren]

If it was running before you tore it down, I would venture to guess the coils are fine. I would start at the points, which seem to be the only other factor that has changed. Should be .012 - .015, IIRC. Most folks I've seen like .013, and I've had consistent success with it.

When I test fire, I prefer to do it without any other variables so I disconnect everything except the black and blue wires going to the coil, then I connect a test lead to the other black wire from the magneto going to the key switch and keep it real close and handy. Grounding that black wire will kill the motor.

Roger

[JimmyG]

A new set of Points to replace the new set I just put in and she runs like champ. I think the other set might have had an insolator problem causing them to grond out, but not sure. Anyway All is good , Now on to a leaky Petcock, but that's whole nother challenge. Again Thanx to you all for the great information.

[rlkarren]

whew! Feels like we diverted a disaster.

Leaky petcocks are a common problem. From what I've read over time, people will replace them with new improved versions sold here. I would hesitate to suggest used ones, as they will probably have the same problem. However, if you do come up with a solution to clean up and stop the leaking, please share. I have leaky petcocks too and it drives me nuts!

Roger

[kingdve]

Ive "fixed" leaky petcocks by gently polishing the parts the goal is not to remove a lot of material ! I take them apart and use DuPont no 7 has worked 4 petcocks for me ...

[JimmyG]

Looks like someone has already worked this one, the nut bottoms out befor its tight in the bore, I put fiber washers on the stud to tighten the fit but it has to be to tight to turn otherwise it willleak, Looks like a new one is in store.