Control Shaft Spring Question

[SuperRat01]

After I got the control shaft back together I read that there is a right and left spring. What are the differences in these springs? What would happen if I don't have the right and left spring on the appropriate sides? I dread dealing with that clip again. Thanks, Linc

[Bill2001]

One spring is right-wound, the other is left-wound. The rotation of the shaft will wind up or unwind the wrong spring in that position. The c'trl shaft tool makes that Jeebus-Clip easier to deal with.

[Dale]

I will add that there is a left and right handed spring unless you have purchased the new "Space Age" spring kit from Strictly Hodaka. These new springs are wound the same and don't require the little washers either. And, they work really well...

[SuperRat01]

Dale, you referenced washers, my control shaft did not have any washers and I don't see any on the diagram. Am I missing something? Linc

[Dale]

Linc,
Which model are your working with? Or, maybe I should ask, which diagram are your referring to?
There is typically a washer on each side of the ball receiver. They separate the ball receiver from the springs. The new Space Age springs do not require these washers.

The washers can be seen (part 17) in the this diagram of a Combat Wombat...
http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/Parts-List-C-s/1937.htm
Dale

[Bullfrog]

Actually the springs do not "un-wind" - after considerable use by folks who do not "snick" their shifts, they may LOOK like the end(s) have un-wound, but actually they have been crushed to the extent that the end "spreads out" (so it LOOKS like it un-wound).

I used to the follow the "left" and "right" wound installation guidance . . . but am now convinced that it just doesn't matter. The "space age" spring expert who guided us through the new spring development issued me a sort of challenge during the development process. It went something like, "I dare you use any set-up you'd like at your desk or in the shop. Use sand paper, brake material or anything you want as the friction material. Use any method you'd like to compress the spring. Now, compress the spring against your chosen friction material and "un-wind" the end of the spring. I dare you." Um, it can't be done. NO. Now picture "un-winding" the spring end by pressing it against a smooth steel surface in an oil bath - it just isn't going to happen.

It is "stomping and holding" shifts which spreads the ends of the springs (or any other action which fully compresses the spring during the shift - which could include excessively worn and/or out of adjustment shifter covers).

Sorry for the book length response, but don't worry about the "right wound"/"left wound" thing. (And while lots of folks are likely to disagree, I wouldn't worry about the washers either.)

Ed

[Bill2001]

Or so I understood about the L-R wound springs. And I'd assumed that The Space Age were LR wound.

I see so many loose ends in my W'Bat's motor that the clutch side case is coming off later this Summer, and if the shifter springs aren't pristine they are getting replaced.

[MTrat]

A related question. My toaster-tank Dirt Squirt shifts through 4th to a 'neutral' when hurried. Downshifting puts it in 4th and upshifting puts in 5th. Is this a spring problem or shifter wear or adjustment?

[Bullfrog]

Yes.

Ed
PS: It will take a bit of sleuthing to define which issues are involved. FIRST thing to check - is there slop of the foot change shaft in its bore? If so, its probably time for a shifter cover rebuild. NOTE: Long term use with a worn shifter, or out-of-adjustment shifter, will result in control shaft spring damage.

[Dale]

MTrat,
I began experiencing the exact same symptoms as you described while riding the Bad Rock trail ride at Hodaka Days two weeks ago. This was on a recently rebuilt 94 Wombat motor with new shift springs. I do "snick" my shifts and I was confident that my springs were fine. I am fortunate to have several other working Hodaka bikes and a swap of shift covers quickly confirmed that it was the cover at fault here.

Here are my thoughts. If you begin to have shifting issues, on a Hodaka that has a history of shifting just fine (and assuming that it is kept clean and lubed), chances are the adjustment has not changed. That leaves the shift springs or wear of the various shift cover components. I was able to adjust my cover to allow proper shifting, however, I totally believe that the adjustment only compensated for wear. My shift shaft is getting a little loose in the bore, but not as bad as many that I have seen. So, while it shifts okay for now, I believe that I have only bought a little time before I will need a cover rebuild. Time will tell...

I hope this helps.
Dale

[matt glascock]

For what its worth, which is likely little, I tell the right and left hand wound springs apart by holding the spring long axis horizontally. On the right wound spring the tops of the coils lean to the right like a forward slash. The left wound leans to the left like a back slash. I like the part about it not really mattering even better!!

[taber hodaka]

I am here with Ed on this but never spoke of it before, for fear of over shaking the fig trees. When the spring gets expanded and I am away from parts, I just use a hammer lightly to bring it back into shape. There are only four times in one revolution where the shift balls are lined up for a shift. Snick or use the clutch that's what I do. I rode to finish not to hall er back home, without a finish. ----Clarence

[viclioce]

Has anyone ever sen the YouTube video about straitening bent springs? Seem that if you have a bent or over stretched spring, you can heat it with a propane torch and it will go back to its original shape!

In the video I saw, the videographer stretch and bend a spring out of shape and then heated it with a torch, and BINGO, the spring went back to its original shape! Just wondering if anyone has tried this method?

[SuperRat01]

Dale, I see the washers you are talking about. However, look at the diagram for a (98) Super Rat, there are no washers. I don't know why one model would have them and another would not.
Ed, thanks for your explanation it really makes sense. I never thought of it that way. Linc

[Dale]

Linc,
Ah, now it makes sense. The later models don't show the washers. These models also use the newer style control shaft. Interesting...

I agree that Ed's statements provide some good clarity to the situation with the shift springs. I know that Hodaka sometimes got a bad grade on the shifting mechanism, but I have always thought it works great. Remove and dry it after washings, clean it, lube it (manually and zerts), snick the shifts and use the clutch. It will work great and last a long long time.
Dale

[taber hodaka]

I would not put any heat to these little springs. Clarence

[Bill2001]

Me neither. Simply heating the metal would anneal it, and springs would need to be (re) tempered.