Ester pre-mix oil

[rtboone]

Greetings from AZ.

I'm looking for input from anyone who might like to share their opinion or recommendation on the use of "ester" oils in their Hodaka's fuel.
Also- Can anyone tell me what the difference is in Castor and Ester? (Just curious)

Thanks

Tom

[Hilly]

Info regarding Maxima 927 from another site.

http://www.lambrettaspares.com/spares/o ... u0525.html

Oil, 2 stroke, Castor 927 Racing, Pre-Mix only (do not mix with other oils) Maxima


MRB have researched into improving lubrication for vintage 2-stroke engines using modern fuels for many years and have found Maxima Oils, a long established American company (40 years) who`s background has firmly come from racing, specialising in 2-stroke and 4-stroke lubricants.

Castor 927 Racing 2-Stroke oil is a 100% Castor bean oil. It provides maximum lubrication to the engines hottest parts, by sticking to the piston rings, cylinder wall, piston and the other major 2-stroke engine`s internal parts, i.e. big and small end bearings. The oil is 100% vegetable based, so is 100% bio-degradable.

Castor 927 is a unique blend of highly refined Castor oil, a specially prepared synthetic and an additive system that reduces carbon and gum formation and provides excellent rust and corrosion protection. Castor 927 also contains an exclusive additive that keeps power valves cleaner and working properly. For all of us that wish to keep our air and water cleaner, Castor 927 is biodegradable. Castor 927 keeps on lubricating; where other lubricants turn to carbon or vaporize, and provides extra protection on cylinder walls, bearing journals and other critical areas at temperatures much higher than other lubricants.

Pre-Mix ONLY!!!! NOT FOR OIL INJECTED ENGINES OR AUTOLUBE ENGINES (eg Vespas)

WARNING!!!!!!!! This a not a synthetic oil and will NOT mix with any other oils! If changing over from any synthetic oil, then the following must be adhered to: drain all existing fuel from tank, pour a tiny amount of pure petrol into the tank and run for a very short amount of time-eg ,1-2 minutes on TICKOVER, only to clear out the fuel lines, carb, and whatever remnants of 2 stroke oil are left in the engine, then stop the engine, re-fuel with the correct amount of Castor 927 and petrol, and remember to mix thoroughly as Castor based oils tend to be thicker than other 2-Stroke oils. Shake the container or scooter vigorously!

Some facts for you to read and decide - Castor oil versus Synthetic oil

The benefits and drawbacks of Castor bean oil:

Castor is a vegetable oil squeezed from the beans of the Castor plant, its a fatty acid ester, similar to what we see in very expensive, top of the range Polyol ester synthetics. When formulating 2 and 4 stroke engine oils using Castor as a base oil, one of the drawbacks is stearic acid. Approximately 2% of Castor bean oil is stearic acid. This portion of Castor oil produces the hard carbon and varnish deposits commonly associated with Castor based oils.

The other drawback is that when using low specific gravity (race fuel only 0.735Sp.G or Aviation fuel AV-GAS), castor oil may seperate from the fuel in very cold temperatures (-35F) NOT regular pump unleaded, it will stay mixed at low temeratures in unleaded fuel.

The Hotter The Better!!

Above are the drawbacks of using Castor oil. At this point someone might ask "Why would anyone want to use Castor bean oil?" Before you draw any conclusions, let us explain the benefits of using Castor oil.

First of all, Castor oil will stay fluid and not carbonise at temperatures over 700 degrees Farenheit. Not many fluids can make this claim, including most synthetics. Castor bean oil reacts on metal surfaces to build what is called "Platelets". The high film strength of these patelets keep the engine from having metal to metal contact points. Castor oil does one thing that neither synthetic oils nor petrolium oils can do - castor oil is attracted to heat, which means that it is drawn to the hotspots of the engine. (rings, cylinder, wall and bearings etc). When processed Castor oil does not change from season to season or vary its form depending on which region of the world it is grown in. Castor oils load carrying capability and high temerature stability are as good as any lubricant known to Man, Castor bean oils do burn a little dirtier, but on the other hand, they are a little less expensive than the high end Synthetic esters. Maxima feels that you can gain a little more performance and value for your money with Castor bean oil, than you can with the 100% polyol ester synthetic oils. Some of these oils do produce a cleaner engine, and in certain applications where there are long intervals between strip downs, this cleanliness is preferred.

What Maxima has done with the Castor 927 is to look at the drawbacks of using Castor oil and to compensate for them in our formulation with cutting edge chemistry, utilising detergents, and additional rust and oxidation inhibitors. The end product is what we describe as being extremely strong, clean burning and competitively priced.

[Hilly]

And the smell!

[Hilly]

Info re Maxima K2 100% synthetic oil:


Technical
2 - stroke oils vary in grades from one - being the lowest to five - being the highest grade - Maxima K2 formula falls into the grade 5 HIGHEST category.

For use in air-cooled or liquid-cooled 2-strokes that are pre-mix. (Not oil injected-or Autolube, e.g. Modern 2-stroke Vespas)

The Four major components make up 2 stroke oil:

1 - Base oil - mineral or synthetic base oil, represents up to 80% of finished oil.

2 - Bright stock/PIB added to improve lubricity at high temperatures, Air cooled engines require more bright stock due to higher cylinder temperatures, It is used as a component of base stock to prevent scuffing and offer additional protection.

3 - Solvents/Dilutents - petroleum based solvents are added to improve the blending of the oil with petrol. It also reduces the viscosity of oil to let it flow through injector systems at low temperatures, represents up to 40% of finished oils.

4 - Detergents/Additives - cleans combustion deposits, provides corrosion protection, reduces ring gumming and sticking and plug fouling, There are two groups of additive packs, metal based and ash less, represents up to 20% of finished oil.






Development History
Not ALL synthetic oils are the same!!! please read.

Some Basic Facts about Oil: There are five different groups of base oil.

Group 1 Solvent frozen mineral oil - is the least processed and lowest cost.

Group 2 Hydro processed and refined mineral oil-most common of petrol based oils

Group 3 Hydro-isomerises synthetics- starts as group 1 petroleum based, then processed to remove impurities and hydrocarbon polymers, improving the thermal and oxidative stability over group 1 and 2. This is the lowest cost synthetic oil.

Group 4 PAO (Polyalpaolefin) produced by breaking down petroleum based oil and reforming molecules into polymers in a planned manner. They have low pour points (thinner), greater stability (works better under high heat) and greater resistance to thermal oxidation than group 1, 2, and 3.

Group 5 Esters-produced by reacting an alcohol with an animal or plant based fatty acid into structured polymers (esters, diesters), superior film strength. Esters are polar and actually CLING TO METAL, they are the most expensive to produce.
(Maxima K2-Formula is a group 5 oil)

[rtboone]

Hilly
Thanks so much for all the detailed info. It is very helpful and informative.
I really appreciate the effort you put into answering my question.

Tom

[Bruce Young]

Hello all of those whom sent in info to help this person out with premix info; All these posts are exactlly on the button. I retired from the motorcycle industry after 30 years working with diff, oil company,s and selling every brand of oil out there, these post if read and followed, tell it all, great work. The only additional thing needed, is that all major brands of oils on the market today fit into what was posted, they are all good, just make sure they are motorcycle oils, specificly made for motorcycles, not auto oils, they don,t mix. Buy your oils from a motorcycle dealer not your auto parts store, of box stores. Support your sport.

And make sure you are keeping within which engine and transmission set up you have
2 stroke or 4 stroke, they don,t mix as well. Bruce Young Hodakaparts.com in Idaho