Hodaka Fever

[Hodie_Bill]

Circa 1966 I lusted after Hodaka. Never got 'Round Tuit. During the Holidays my neighbor's kids came over for a few days and they brought by a Honda-something 100-200cc trailbike. Neighbor has 27 acres of dirtroads and I got to ride them on the trailbike. Wow. Deja Vu all over again.

So I've had a relapse of Hodaka Fever. Why? Childhood dream, etc etc. I want to do a little light local trail riding. If I had any sense I'd go the UJM route instead. But I've ridden the same BMWobbly since new so it fits my style.

So let me toss this out-- I'm looking for a Hodaka "Ace 100" or a "Super Rat", used-but-not-abused. Does not need to be Cherry but I'd like to be able to ride one season before splitting the case for a refresh. Rare as hen's teeth, very little comes up on eBay or CL, so I have no firm idea what the prices are like. Let's hit $2000-$3000 for my initial purchase plus first years operational budget, with some squirming room at the top? I'd be looking for one in Alabama or adjacent States.

Later this week I'll post a "Wanted" ad in the Marketplace for Administrative perusal. Or maybe before, since we may get overrun by Russkies again...

--Bill

[hodakamax]

Hi Bill. I guess there is more than one way to get into the Hodaka business. The last one I bought was an Ace 100 for $125. Sounds cheap but I quickly got into the price range that you are talking about. Before that I bought a 94A Wombat for $100 and it too quickly used up your projected budget. I guess my advice would be to analyze each find and see what the potentials are. Big ticket items are to be noted first such as shocks, forks, tank, seat, major engine work and so on. The first one I built (the 94A) was expensive so when I bought the Ace 100 the theme was economy. Well that didn't work either. All fun hobbies are expensive and the way I look at it now is how much entertainment I got and am getting from these two bikes. I don't know how mechanically inclined you are but I would hate for you to miss out on all the fun of restoration. Good luck in your quest! Keep us posted.

Just my opinion.

Maxie

[MWL]

Bill
Where are you located? I may be able to help.
Mike

[viclioce]

I bought an Ace for $400 and a Road Toad & 1/2 for $400. I also bought a Model 03 rolling chassis with a Model 94/95 motor 2 years ago for $250. You may have to shop around but they are out there. But bottom line is prices are escalating. The better the condition the more the bike will bring. Good luck with your search! ; D Victor

[Brewski*]

Yeah a $200 Wombat ended up costing over 3k before finished back to original + a few extras ie buddy pegs, mirrors, IRC tires. It is for sale on the Market place for 3500. At that price I am NOT making money but not loosing money. It all comes down to what you want, and how nice of what you want you actually want to pay for.....

[Brewski*]

A $800 super rat went over $4,000 but only because I used an un-reputably builder that did not set the timing and the motor seized and burned a hole through a brand new piston~! Then down to Hodaka Dave Rozier for and extra 800.00 to get it right. That is where the money goes. If you want it done right sometimes it is better to spend a little extra first and reap the benefits later. The bike was astounding. See the All my bikes post. I try to build the best in the world just like the speedskates I build. The very best or nothing at all.

[Bill2001]

I'm back. I god banished to the Gulag with the spammers. Old Nom-de Modem was Hodie_Bill, new one is Bill2001. Let me make use of this window in case another shoe drops...

Max--
I've tinkered with motorbikes since I was a kid, and would be able to resurrect a basket case, so there is no absolute need to get a good runner right now. Thing is, I'm in my 60's and the clock is ticking for me. I'd rather pay a bit more for a good runner that I can ride the dickens out of this Spring and Summer and Fall. and go through and refurb over the Winter. I'm looking forward to having a new project bike, just not too much, too soon.

MWL-Mike:
PM and eMail sent. I'm in northwest Alabama.


Victor--
I've read your "Build Threads". Old bikes can be fun. I'll just have to see what I can get for x-Dollars and go from there. The bikes are rugged and easy to work on and parts are still readily available. My "daily rider" bike is a 1973 BMW with 200K on the clock. Nice bike, good for traveling but not nimble enough for offroad fun.


Brewski--
Yep, these toys can be Black Holes for money. But less so if you are careful. And what the heck, you can't take it with you...

--Bill

[hodakamax]

Glad you are back. After clicking on your original name it said you didn't exist. As for your clock ticking in your sixties, mine's ticking in my seventies. Anyway one more more serious comment. Hodakas that look good but have not run for decades probably need seals. The machines are so simple that there won't be much down time in repairs. Again, keep us posted!

Max

[Bill2001]

For sure-- any old bike that has been cleaned up and "looks good" may be suspect because seals and rubber bits can deteriorate just sitting there. Many seals can be replaced easily, but some less-easily. Ya pays yer money, ya takes yer chances...

--Bill

[Bill2001]

Listening to people in this thread and talking with my "local Hodaka person" I'm changing directions slightly. Looking for a 45 year old Ace 100, used but not abused and runnable for 6 months is probably going to be hard to find. And as Maxie suggests, the nicer and cleaner it is the more that will cut into the critical budget for the real work: engine internals, electrics, wheels, suspension and brakes. So I'm going to broaden my search criteria and be on the lookout for a non-running (but not locked up) roller. I'll want to avoid something that comes in several boxes but "ran fine before we took it apart", though if I find something exceptional I may get it as a parts bike. I'll likely stay with something in the range of an Ace100 since that is where I started out this Rip van Winklesque journey as a kid-- these new-fangled wombats and dingbats didn't exist yet.

AND talking and thinking it over more let me also broaden the type to include a Wombat Type 94-- that should give us more to choose from. Check the Marketplace, I've edited my WTB ad to reflect this.

But whatever, it's been a long rainy day.

--Bill

[admin]

TEST for Bill

[Bill2001]

Yessir, everything is working fine on the Forum, and in the Marketplace section. And I received my "History of Hodaka" yesterday, so things couldn't be better.

--Bill

[Bill2001]

Well, I think things got better. I'll know more in a few days...



viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1968

--Bill

[Bill2001]

I think I'll keep the discussions about the new bike in my initial Hodaka Fever thread.

Oils. Yep, we'll lapse into an Oil Thread. I'll stick with whatever the uses, at least during break-in. He uses a Blendzall variety in the premix and I'll have to ask about the transmission. I recall that he has the oil mix richened up for new-engine break-in.

Which brings us here: I've never broken in a 2-stroke motorcycle engine (tho I have done several 4-stroke engines). What is the recommended way of breaking in a 2 stroke? The PO/builder is putting some mileage on the new engine so the initial heat/cool cycles and initial run-in is being tended to. My technique is not to run at a constant speed or engine loading and limit the top rpm, increasing it as the engine get miles on it. And with a full-throttle, high rpm burst every few miles to "scuff the rings in".

I'm fired up.

--Bill

[Bill2001]

The transport guy just called and my Wombat should arrive in about half an hour. Yippee.

Tire pressures: it is running Kenda K270 (IRC GP-1 clones), 3.25x21 F and 4.00x18 R. Wombat manual says Street 24/26psi and Trail Riding 12/14 psi. I recall on my BMW that "modern" street tires nowadays take higher presssurees than the 1973 Owner's Manual suggestions (like 9-10 psi more). What about offroad tires? I looked and Kenda or IRC didn't have recommendations on their websites.

Half hour. And the rain is holding off for the unloading. But rain this evening, nice next week with rain towards end of the week. Riding time and then shop time. I want to go out and get the new bike MUDDY. Then tinker with it a little. Then ride more. Rinse, then repeat.

--Bill

[Dale]

Bill,
Awesome! I run the Kenda tires on my Wombats (and the IRC's on my Road Toads) and they work great. I keep them in the mid-20's for everything as the sidewalls are pretty soft. I typically put like 26 in the rear and 22 in the front. I think the 12/14 range is perfect for off road tires, but not these.
Just my opinion...

Dale

Edit: Let me also say that the Kenda and IRC tires do not act like the typical dual-sport knobbies out there. The dual-sport knobbies are a nightmare on gravel and dirt unless you lower your tire pressures. The Kenda and IRC tires perform pretty admirably off road while still at 25 lbs of pressure.

[Bill2001]

That is what I read today about the Kenda:

Kenda K270 Dual-Sport Tire
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/k ... re.803620/

They seem to be a great all-around tire, and ones I can "get practiced on"since I've not ridden dirt in many years. Once I define my riding tastes I can refine the tire types. I'll stick with the mid-20's on the tire pressure

Next question: gasoline grade and type. On the BMW /5 I prefer using ethanol-free, and although it is spec'd for a Premium grade, I have modded the engine to drink Regular grade gas. From what I've read, the Wombat likes a Premium Grade gas, but I'm wondering if it would need an ethanol-free fuel (assuming the bike will be ridden frequently). I have a local supplier for Regular no-ethanol, but the station that carries Premium no-ethanol is 20 miles away. I could always run Premium Grade, and ethanol-free when I can get it , but not be fanatic about it.

Tag, taxes and registration tomorrow.

--Bill

[Dale]

Non-ethanol only! Don't use anything but non-ethanol.

While the non-ethanol can be tough to source, a good grade can be even tougher. Get the 93 when you can. I only have 90 available here without going to av-gas or race gas. My bikes don't call for that high of octane and the 90 seems to serve me just fine.
Dale

[Bill2001]

Probably not a bad idea to avoid gasohol. Back in the early 80's when it was first available, along with the early low-lead/no-lead gas the BMW had a lot of runnability problems. All that was eventually sorted out, but I remember what a PITA it was and don't want to revisit. And I'm not sure how xx-% ethanol affects 2-stroke lubrication. Since I don;t have an in-town source of non-ethanol (my "local source" is in the next village three miles away) I keep a few gallons of Regular non-ethanol stashed away. so it won't be hard to keep Premium, too.

--Bill

[Bullfrog]

I would agree that ethanol free fuel is the proper way to go for your 40-50 year old Hodie. And it is important to be quite "pure" about using ethanol free fuel. It is specifically not OK to switch back and forth between ethanol free and ethanol blend fuel. The two fuel sources require (repeat, REQUIRE) different carburetor jetting, so switching back and forth is a recipe for engine damage.

I'd recommend finding a local, easy-to-get-to source of ethanol free fuel and plan to stick with it.

Ed

[Dale]

Also... the ethanol fuel has a short shelf life. In addition, it hardens quickly in the carb. With the tiny jets used on these bikes, they can and will be plugged in short order.

[Bill2001]

Yep, gasohol is nasty stuff.

I'll plan to keep 5-10 gallons of ethanol-free Premium stashed away, since the Hodie is a "recreational bike" and not a long-distance tourer or daily rider I can do that without problem. I already stash 5 gallons of ethanol-free Regular for those times I need to top the tank off or need a little gas on the BMW and don't have time to run 4 miles and get gas, so I've already got that in place. And between the Diesel for the Tractor, regular for lawnmowers, pre-mix for chain saws and weed-whackers, spare gas for the big bike, it won't be a big deal to store a little more in that shed.

--Bill

[viclioce]

But how long can you realistically store it? Even with additives, it's going to loose it's octane rating. I just don't think it's worth it. But that just my 2 cents. ; D Victor

[Bill2001]

I'm sure there is a storage limit for non-ethanol fuel, but I'm sure it's measured in months and not weeks like the alky-gas is. For longer storage, like in a gasoline-powered emergency generator, I've heard "use non-ethanol gas and add Sta-Bil", a fuel stabilizer. But 5 gallons is a couple of tanks worth and it can be used up in a couple of summer months and what is not used can go into a car or truck. Waste not...

--Bill

[Bill2001]

I hate losing keys. Rarely lose them, but it's a point of honor to lose them. So I generally make spare keys ASAP when I get a vehicle. On my new 1972 Wombat I have ONE key, cut into a "Hope" key blank, and this key is OEM since it is with a steel blank. Has it been your experience that is Hodaka blank is (or is not) easily found at a locksmith shop? With my '73 BMWobbly I have to get the key blank from a parts supplier since the blank used is uncommon.

What is the situation with Hodaka?

--Bill