Key and stator wire mapping

The main Page for the Hodaka Club Discussion Group
Post Reply
bermshot
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Jan 06, 2016 8:58 am

Key and stator wire mapping

Post by bermshot »

I need some help ASAP on a 68 92 model Ace 100. I see the wiring diagram but need to know what the key mapping is connecting and what the 4 wires are going into the switch on the diagram. I got a stripped down bike and have to deliver it in 2 days. I have made a wire harness without a front brake switch. I have a Honda 4 wire style switch. that basically one set of wires if open and the other closed when the switch is on. I assume the open circuit will unground the ignition and the closed one will connect the battery. I need to see how to wire this up with this switch as it looks like the original system uses the switch to break the ground to the battery to turn off the 12V circuit. I see the black and blue 2 wire sheath goes to the coil.
Does the black wire in the 4 wire sheath ground out the Ignition when the switch is off? I believe the Yellow wire is the AC light coil output. What are the Blue and Green wires do. The Blue looks to be Ground in most of the system.
This is a one position switch and the only bar switch I have has a horn and a HI/LOW switch so I may put an interrupt switch to turn off the lights when not needed. I do not have a rectifier delivered at this time but have a battery to test my circuits.
I have the horn and the stop/taillight working off the battery at this time but have not wired in the head light or the switch yet.
User avatar
Dale
Posts: 1272
Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2013 7:23 am

Re: Key and stator wire mapping

Post by Dale »

Here is a link to another post regarding the wiring of the 92 Ace 100's. In this post, Roger lists some specific details. I hope this will give you your answers.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=490
Dale
rlkarren
Posts: 388
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2013 6:50 am
Location: River Heights, Utah

Re: Key and stator wire mapping

Post by rlkarren »

Sorry for the wall of text, but...

The Ace90/100 key switch is a 3 position switch with 8 wires coming from it. The explanation is in the post Dale referenced. I'll try not to repeat what I wrote there. But if you have further questions after reading it, please let me know and I'll try to help.
bermshot wrote:Does the black wire in the 4 wire sheath ground out the Ignition when the switch is off?
yes.
bermshot wrote:I believe the Yellow wire is the AC light coil output.
Correct
bermshot wrote:The Blue looks to be Ground in most of the system.
Correct again!
bermshot wrote: What are the Blue and Green wires do.
The green wire is also Light coil output. The green and yellow wires are spliced together inside the magneto at the coil. Because of this, the Green wire supplies AC current through the key switch to the Rectifier which converts it to DC current to re-charge the battery while the battery is powering the taillight, Stop light, and horn. The rectifier is rather critical here. You'll use a Stop light about a dozen times before the battery goes dead unless you're re-charging the battery somehow. The AC current from the magneto is designed to be "always on".

From my other post, this is key: (no pun intended)
rlkarren wrote:And the pole positions: (E is earth, or ground)

Off: IG to E, Bat open
Day: Bat to E
Night:IG open, Bat to E, and C2 to HL
bermshot wrote:This is a one position switch and the only bar switch I have has a horn and a HI/LOW switch
With this combination, I think you can make it work by:

1. Connect the green wire from the magneto directly to the white wire to the rectifier. (The Ace90/100 3-position switch does this anyway.)
2. Place an interrupt switch inline on the yellow wire. The yellow wire is "always on" and supplies AC current to the headlight via the Hi/Low switch, exclusively. (It goes without saying that when the switch is on Hi Beam, it also powers the Hi beam indicator in the speedo)
3. Configure "On" so that it reflects the connections for "Night" above.

You could also go battery-less, which might actually be easier. But that would have to be in another post.

$0.02

Roger

P.S. HIGHLY recommend a voltage regulator on the yellow wire. Normally, you wouldn't need it, but it sure wouldn't hurt.
bermshot
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Jan 06, 2016 8:58 am

Re: Key and stator wire mapping

Post by bermshot »

Thanks so much for the quick answers to simplify this. Without the rectifier I will just go with the direct wiring and key the Ign. I put this on too tight of a timeline then parts I bought on Ebay have not arrived in time or were wrong yr. model, then yesterday my chrome shop threw me under the bus and did not repair or chrome the tank or exhaust so now I have to deliver it to the Banquet for our local race club unfinished with not the best tank or exhaust choice. Will have to get it back to finish it out.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests