The Hodaka Club Forum

I’m getting pretty tired of trying to set points by lining up on the left case mark. Also, this Ace I’m working on had the left case mark worn down. I measured the distance for the left mark and made a new mark in the case, but it’s probably just ‘close.’

What are you guys using for a timing light or buzz box? Which do you recommend. I need to get away from manually setting points. And where’s a good place to buy one or the other? Victor

anymore I set the point gap, no timing mark. In my dealer years I had a frosted bulb and small battery the bulb went brighter when the points closed, Then later I went to point gap and eyeballed that. My feeler gauge is about 1/4 inches wide. try different ways and pick the one you like, I have never used a automotive timing light on a hodaka. ------ Clarence

I have used a buzzbox and a lamp. Found them to be a pain.
This is what works for me.
I use a dial indicator to verify both marks. Yes, some of them are off slightly from the factory. If you dont have a dial indicator you can use a clean piece of wooden dowel in the spark plug hole and visually determine TDC (okay, a screwdriver works too). Once you have the marks you are good to go.
I align my magneto mark with the Top Dead Center mark (left mark) on the case. I use a small cedar shim between the magneto and case to hold it in place.
I set the point gap to .012". After setting the gap, I roll it around and double check it.,

This is typically all that I do. On my track bikes I also check with a timing light to confirm the firing point. It is rare to need any further adjustment after setting the point gap.

Point gap by the book is .012" as Dale said or up to .014" Harry at one time suggested the larger. Too small of a point gap can burn or pit the points, as can a bad condenser. Clarence

Great points Clarance (no pun intended)!
I have always set my points on the retarded side rather than the advanced side. That said, I know that it is considered safe anywhere between .012 and .015. So, by setting to .012, I think it is important to check it routinely and keep the armature lubed. As the armature wears down, the gap is going to get smaller. .014 is probably the better target for that reason. Either way, I agree that setting up via gap is the easiest way to get the points adjusted.

I typically use a .013 feeler gauge because it’s right in the middle of the recommended range. I also use wood wedges to hold the flywheel steady.

I did buy a tool for measuring TDC & mm before. But I’m inclined to believe the tool was not assembled correctly. It reads .094” at TDC! Way off!

Yesterday I was dealing with an Ace and I would move the points gap but it kept springing back, as if the screw had not been loosened. After pulling the stator off, removing the points & re-installing them, they started to move correctly. Wax just scrap pain in the butt. But I finally got spark. Now to just get her to run……. Victor

You have to manually set your dial indicator to 0 at TDC. Once set you can now verify where the points break using a lamp or buzzbox.
.114" for an Ace100.

It isn’t a dial indicator. It looks like this one. Victor

A Resonator Revisited article shows how to make an effective 'buzz box'. I use that but also use a cellophane strip between the points with light pressure which will slip out as the points open.

To use the scale type of indicator that you have, you put in into the spark plug hole. Turn the engine through and watch the indicator. When it gets to TDC, it should stop moving up and begin to move down. Once you rock the engine back and forth a couple of times to verify TDC, roll one of the o-rings down until it contacts the part that screws into the spark plug hole (you can also mark the cases for future reference). Remove the inner scale portion (don't worry about what the scale is set at, just use that as a guide as you are going to move the o-ring). Now, carefully move the o-ring up the scale to how many mm's or inches you want to set the ignition at (on an Ace 100 its .114" or 2.9 mm's). Reinstall the scale portion and, with the piston near BDC, begin to rotate the crank and watch for movement on the inner scale. When it just begins to move, it should be at your timing point BTDC. Verify it a couple of times and then mark the cases.