Hello all.
Does anyone know of an instructional video pertaining to replacing / renewing the clutch plates on an Ace 100-series engine?
I want to renew the clutch plates on a model 96 Dirt Squirt. The clutch doesn't fully disengage when the lever is fully against the grip. From what I have read, the gear teeth on the friction plates might need to be gently filed to allow them to slide to-and-fro without getting hung up (allowing the springs to do their thing).
I have studied the shop manual materials on the subject and, putting it simply, they are less-than clear to me. I am probably not understanding them. Is the idea to use a fine file while all of the plates are in the clutch cover/housing, or do you file each one independently? And how does one perform the filing/smoothing process properly? I am reluctant to use an aggressive tool like a dremel, but would prefer to use a small hand-held file.
It would be very useful if there was a video showing the process from start to finish. I haven't found one though.
I appreciate everyone's input. Thanks. James
Clutch Renewal Instructional Materials
- Bullfrog
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Re: Clutch Renewal Instructional Materials
If you are a member of the Hodaka Club, you can go to the archive of the club newsletter ("Resonator Revisited) and look up the article on blue printing the clutch. The article should answer your questions.
Ed
Ed
Keep the rubber side down!
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Re: Clutch Renewal Instructional Materials
Thanks Ed. I just joined the club, so I'll check out the article. Regards, James
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Re: Clutch Renewal Instructional Materials
You didn't mention any effort to adjust the clutch as the pack sits now. How many shims in the stack under the clutch disk? How much free play is there in the clutch lever on the case? The issue could be as simple as a stretched clutch cable or the need to remove a shim from under the clutch disk.
- Bullfrog
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- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2013 4:05 pm
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Re: Clutch Renewal Instructional Materials
Matt has very good point there. I got tunnel vision on your question about filing - and totally forgot to mention that the very FIRST thing you should do is check for free play at the end of the clutch lever on the engine with the clutch cable disconnected. Target is 3/32". If you have way more than that, you have to use up a most of your hand lever travel just to "take up" the freeplay . . . and you never get to full disengagement.
The symptom you will clear up by blue printing the clutch is "grabbiness".
Ed
The symptom you will clear up by blue printing the clutch is "grabbiness".
Ed
Keep the rubber side down!
Re: Clutch Renewal Instructional Materials
The article is in Volume 1, Number 4, starting on page 3.
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Re: Clutch Renewal Instructional Materials
All good points Matt and Ed. I'll examine this and report back. Thanks. James
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