The Hodaka Club Forum

I acquired this Ace 100, model 92, from a guy who bought it from Jim Pomeroy's widow, Linda, a while back. He had it sitting and did not touch it.

Frame no. A18450, engine P21084. I think this same bike is pictured in the Hodaka book with Pomeroy working on it in a shop, but I could be wrong. It's in remarkably decent shape given that it is likely a '67. I plan to clean it up, replace worn parts, but keep the original paint intact. If anyone has any other intel on the history of this bike, I'd love to hear.

Anyone know where to obtain replacement front fork rubber boots? Terry's site shows them as "out of stock." I would think that another manufacturer's boot might fit. I measured the existing ones--they are 6 & 1/4" long and the tube is 1 & 1/2" diameter.

The kick crank has some issues. Not sure if it is stripped, need to investigate.

Thanks for your input. James

If you go to ebay and put in rubber fork boots a ton will show up. Most have sizes listen so just go through and see if you can match up the size you need.

Very nice looking bike, especially considering the age. Great find.

Make sure you get the width dimensions correct when buying fork boots. I tried several sizes and even getting the springs lubed and trying to “screw them into the springs, I had a very hard time time yung to get boots which fit.

Maybe get a hold of Lee Fabry and ask him where he buys his to get a good fit. It was very frustrating for me…. Victor

Here are a few current photos of the Model 92 following my cleaning and disassembly of many components. Installed new tires, seat, fork boots, and cables. Runs like a champ.

photos

Looking good James. New cables, foot brake rubber pad and gas line.and the seat really sets it off. The clutch cable should route under the tank. I will call you. ----------- Clarence

Bike looks great. Great job on bringing it back to life.

Clarence: Yes, please call with your wisdom about the routing of the cables. The clutch cable needs to go "under" but I'm not sure which way to feed it. Easy enough tweak. I also added a 50-tooth sprocket that Bruce Young supplied. Thanks for all the compliments. James

Does anyone have advice on tightening the exhaust nut to the engine (when one does not have the Hodaka OEM tool)?

I tightened the nut as best I could with channel-locks and some fabric to prevent damage to the nut. After a few minutes of running, the nut worked loose. To be clear, I am using the required brass gasket between the exhaust tube and the engine.

How tight does the nut need to be?

Let me know if anyone has some ideas on this. Thanks. James

James I will call you on that. ----------- C;arence

I usually make sure the rest of the pipe mounts are loose, so the pipe can move a little (not too much, just enough to be able to align itself to the cylinder). I then take te largest channel lock pliers I have and tighten the nut down, wiggling the pipe a little as I am doing so to make sure the pipe crown is even with the cylinder. Once the nut is tight, I tighten the rest of the mounts.

That is exactly correct. The correct copper gasket is required, asbestos encased in copper, not solid. Threads must be clean. I have been known to have put a hose clamp on it and wire it for racing the 90. loose they can suck in air and gritt then seize. ----------------- Clarence

David and Clarence: Thank you very much for your advice and input. Warm regards, James

I added the 50 T sprocket and longer chain. What a difference this makes. The bike is a billy goat on hills.

Thanks to Bruce Young for supplying the sprocket. James