The Hodaka Club Forum

ive been reading about oil injections and all good info, but im not finding if you should fill the oil lines up with oil , as in prime the pump and lines, before you test the system out to see if it is working. not quite ready to start it up but one of the things that im working on.... thanks albert

Yes, you should fill the lines with oil. OR simply run a tank of pre-mix while the pump fills them for you (as recommended in several places in publications from the day).
Ed

thanks Ed , i will fill the lines and run pre mix....albert

sooo i was thinking ..... if when you remove the oil injection on a 03 wombat you need to drill a hole for the lubrication of the left side crank bearing . why then is it ok to run premix in the tank as the oil pump primes/ fills up the oil lines and starts putting out oil ? im perplexed .... albert

Running a tank of premix while confirming oil pump function only serves to keep you from burning up your motor during the test process should the pump turn out to be defective. The test process only takes a few minutes of high idle-speed operating to see movement in the oil line. Make sure to block off the hole where the line inserts into the intake manifold or you will introduce a spectacular air leak into the induction tract. The Mikuni oil pumps are almost bullet proof. I personally have never heard of one breaking while in service. In my opinion, the Achilles heel of the oil injection system is the check valve where the oil line connects to the intake manifold. If the check ball gets stuck closed, oil delivery stops. That cost me a top end on a Road Toad. Its for reasons like that some folks perform the premix conversion you describe and take any oil injection system variables out of the equation. There is an excellent description of the priming, adjustment, and function confirmation procedures in any of the "painted tank" model owner manuals.

so your saying for the few minutes it takes to see if there's movement in the lines the bearing will be ok . its only when you run the motor for an extended amount of time with out oil in the pump system that there is a problem . sorry to belabor the point matt but with your broken leg you might need something to think about any way ..... albert

Albert, I'll admit to forgetting about the Wombat 03. Following an engine rebuild, assembly lube should protect the mag side crank seal for a while if running premix. However, it is CERTAINLY best to get all air out of the oil lines and not depend on premix to lube the mag side crank seal for all other situations with the 03. Note the focus on the seal - the 03 crank bearing on the mag side will lube OK with premix, it is the seal on that side which can be starved.
Ed

Haha! True. Its driving me crazy. Yes, the limited amount of time operating the motor at idle speed and not under load is allowable.

thanks that explains it a lot better for my peace of mind . really appreciate it ...... albert

Cool Albert. By the way, I sure hope we can hit some of those awesome Minnesota fire roads some day soon.

Glad this got talked out now! When I get back, I will be preloading the oil lines and putting some premix in the tank. I guess I’ll start with maybe 1/2 gallon of premix at 1:40 and see if it smokes a lot! That would be a good indicator that it’s getting more oil via the pump. Also will give a much lower mixing ratio with oil in the gas and the pump. But 1/2 a gallon won’t last long doing a few heat cycles! Victor

Excellent plan Victor. There is another technique for confirmation of function I used on my TM-125 before I converted it to premix only. Pull the ultimate oil delivery line, introduce an air bubble, reattaching the line and fire the bike and blip the throttle a bit. Progression of the bubble toward the induction confirms function. This obviously requires clear oil lines. BONUS- your bike will love the extra oil for the break-in. Cool!

from the manual...

part two : the new cable that goes to the pump, the end has to connect with the " lever" that opens the flow of oil in the pump. i have a brass cable end that the cable should fit in and ends the cable, but the cable goes through the brass end it comes out just as easy . so do you solder it in, crimp it , or what am i missing

There is something wrong with your little brass piece. It should have a small bore on one side for the cable, and a slightly larger bore on the other side to "capture" the cable end.
Ed

Your are missing plastic cable terminal. Should be part # 993701.

03 illustration C item #51.

Hmmm, I'll have to look that up when I get home. I don't remember a plastic part there (but I sure won't argue with the Illustrated Parts List!)

#51 is the piece to which Danny was referring. Victor

as you can see the little brass piece Ed and i am referring to was in there hooked up to the cable . so you can push the cable end through the brass piece through the little hole and its captured by the larger hole , in my mind if the cable end can go through the smaller hole what's to stop it from coming back out .. soooo i will put part #51 on my list witch might be my last parts order for this bike . thanks guys and while im here i was having a problem with the spark it was very weak then disappeared , read thru quite a few older posts about weak spark and figured it out now it has a very strong spark could not do this with out all your help ......albert

I looked more closely, that is simply not the right brass piece ( tho Danny says it should be a plastic piece) - enneywayeeee, the piece should have a slot in its side so it can be "slotted" onto the end of the cable (and it then "captures" the end of the cable. From L to R - 1) cable with endpiece gets rotated so cable fits thru slot in actuation arm 2) according to owners manual, these two lines should line up when actuation arm is at rest with cable removed, and 3) bend tang as needed to line up the lines in item #2

Plastic part locks the cable in place. Tried to find an example in my parts stash but no luck. Might be brass but I remember plastic.
Edited

So I wandered around in my shed and found this OEM piece on a Model 99 Road Toad. This the item which "captures" the end of the oil pump actuation cable and fits in to the oil pump actuation arm.
Ed

yes that makes sense. so how in the world did the one in this motor get there , guess will never know. glad some alarms went up when i was putting it together, as always did learn a few more things ....albert