The Hodaka Club Forum

I am asking because I’m trying not to second guess.

My CW stopped firing. I removed the tank and found the bullet connectors from the stator to the ignition coil were broken loose. I reterminated the wires and got a spark, but it was a small, pale spark. Not enough to fire the fuel.

Is this an indication that the condenser is bad? Or does it sound like a weak ignition coil? From running, to no spark to weak spark.

I’m contemplating changing the condenser first. I think it’s unusual for the ignition coil to burn out, right? Let me know what you think. Victor

From running (fine, I presume?) to no spark had a clear cause - broken connection. You replaced the connectors and got spark - albeit weak. This condition must have developed while the bike was sitting. I'd say its time for a very thorough examination of the wires involved and repair work before digging into the stator and potentially jacking a good condenser. Partially broken wire or incomplete crimp contact with a bullet connector come to mind as possibly causal.

I would suggest points and see what the spark looks like with a fresh plug, try the battery trick. Clarence

Clarence, it has a brand new plug. Never fired with this plug yet. Points were new and it doesn’t have an hour run tune on them yet. To which battery trick are you referring? The CW doesn’t have a battery.

You've received good guidance. Having new points which ran well a day or two ago, doesn't mean you can skip cleaning in order to remove a variable (which is often an important variable).

Also, you just completed significant work on the wire harness - double check your work. AND, since the wires got a fair bit of handling (and they are a half century old) a complete magnifying glasses check of every inch of wire and every connection would be a good idea. You might also look up the article in the Resonator Revisited about the blue points wire.
Ed

Went to pull the flywheel and it was loose! Removed it without a flywheel puller! Turns out the woodruff key had broken in half longways! Half was in the flywheel and half still in the crank! So there was no timing!

All replaced now! Putting cover back on & going to fire it up! Victor

You have experienced the primary cause of Woodruff Keys "shearing". Either the flywheel taper and crank taper are damaged and not seating with each other fully . . . or you forgot to tighten the flywheel nut (been there done that).

Any time the Woodruff Key shears off, it is recommended to do a detailed check for fit of the tapers prior to reinstalling the flywheel.

Ed

Ed. This is my CW. Not the Model 03 project bike I am building. No wiring harness.

Checked everything. Found all pieces. Magnets in flywheel held the broken piece! She started on first kick!

I was getting it ready for HD! Was not getting it to start. Flywheel had loosened & snapped the woodruff key in half! Victor

The ignition wiring can also be referred to as a harness (saves typing magneto wiring at the coils, wires between the mag and the high tension coil, kill button wiring - if you worked with it, flexed it, etc.).

Hope the shearing didn't mess up the taper fit.

Ed

Nope. Taper fit is fine. Flywheel secure. Onward to other issues on other bikes! Victor

Glad to hear that!
Ed

Good it is running Victor. A torqued flywheel will not loosen by its self that quickly, it takes a puller to take it off. Some where in time if someone over tightened it without using a torque wrench it could cause the lobe on the flywheel to split and then you can't keep the nut tight.