The Hodaka Club Forum

Good Evening

Was able to pick this up this evening

Thoughts on what kind of mess I just got myself into or is this worth getting back into shape ?

1972 Wombat Frame

Have both wheels that came with it

It all starts with a “First step!” If it were me, I’d drill the rivets on the VIN plate & remove. Complete disassembly and then have things sandblasted.

Is there a motor? Pipe? Different tank? What do you have -vs- what do you need? Victor

Do not have a motor so that will be a task

Pretty much just have the frame wheels and gas tank pictured

Is the tank worth putting back on or is it pretty much toast ?

Also have some motor parts side case covers cylinder jug etc and and old crank that is rusted

Thanks for the help

Sounds like you have (most of?) a motor too. Time to perform a well-documented disassembly and clean up. Only then will you know what you have and what you'll need. Take a lot of pictures and use ziploc bags etc to keep parts organized. Don't be discouraged by a little (lot of) rust. That is SOP in Hodie-rescue land. Don't throw anything away as you go. You might be surprised at what can be salvaged in part or in whole.

Thank You the positive response will be calling Monday to get it sandblasted

No motor just 3-4 side case covers cylinder jug
And internal cases spilt


Do will be sourcing a motor eventually

Thank You both

Easy way to remove the VIN plate without damaging it is to push the rivets out from inside the frame neck using a right-angle hose pick. Locate the back of the rivet with the pick and wedge a screwdriver or something against the back of the pick and push out the rivet. The rivet can be reused. A set of four picks are cheap at HF, etc.

Nice tip, I use a carton knife blade slid in behind the rivit head. Like your method better.

Thanks scribbler for the tip have a set of those and didn’t cross my mind was going to use a small center punch and then drill out but not now will use your method

Scribbler wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 2:36 pm Easy way to remove the VIN plate without damaging it is to push the rivets out from inside the frame neck using a right-angle hose pick. Locate the back of the rivet with the pick and wedge a screwdriver or something against the back of the pick and push out the rivet. The rivet can be reused. A set of four picks are cheap at HF, etc.

Ohio976 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 1:21 pm Thank You the positive response will be calling Monday to get it sandblasted

No motor just 3-4 side case covers cylinder jug
And internal cases spilt


Do will be sourcing a motor eventually

Thank You both

Do you need a set of cases? I think I might have a set of Wombat cases under my workbench. Check with me tomorrow after 10 am MST! Victor

Sure if you wouldn’t mind how much are you asking

viclioce wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 4:22 pm

Ohio976 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 1:21 pm Thank You the positive response will be calling Monday to get it sandblasted

No motor just 3-4 side case covers cylinder jug
And internal cases spilt


Do will be sourcing a motor eventually

Thank You both

Do you need a set of cases? I think I might have a set of Wombat cases under my workbench. Check with me tomorrow after 10 am MST! Victor

Afternoon

Any tips on getting the following out due to crunch frozen locked up


Swing Arm Bolt tings frozen in there

Rear shock Bolts

Rear brake pedal

Also any tips on cleaning up the rear shocks or are they toasted?


These is all I have left and off of to get sand blasted

Shocks? Easiest option is to purchase replacements. OEM style are available from Terry at Hodaka-Parts.com. There are write-ups on dis-assembly and cleanup if that is something you wish to do.

Shock bolts? Purchase a superior quality penetrating oil. Kroil is my go to... Spray it multiple times over several days. Apply a little heat. They will come loose.

Swing arm bolt? Apply the same penetrating oil multiple times. Fashion a puller (same idea as a piston pin puller) from some PVC spacers and large washers. Then use the nut to pull it loose.

Thanks Dale much appreciate

shocks, make sure you take the inside nut off first. c

I did get one off last night the bolt is actually froze to the collar on the shock . It came loose but won’t go past the collar


I have the brake pedal and swing arm soaking in PB Blaster

Finally after soaking in PB Blaster and working on it for 2 days everything is apart and off to get sandblasted tomorrow thank You all

That is progress, Clarence

Ohio976 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 25, 2022 3:07 pm Finally after soaking in PB Blaster and working on it for 2 days everything is apart and off to get sandblasted tomorrow thank You all

Awesome! Often the best tool is patience.

My next questions are

Do you usually primer the frame after sandblasting


And what’s the opinion on frame color should I go back to the standard black ? Or do red or the silver

The Frame is a Wombat Frame

I would prime it as quick as possible because rust starts very soon,, they make some self etching primers I really like . the color is self appealing. you could look at a series of pictures and pick one that meets your fancy or go stock. there allot of professionals on here that are the best in the world, and it ain't me. --- Clarence

As Clarence said, getting the bare metal covered as quickly as possible is a must. And you have a blank canvas to create whatever you wish.

Are you planning to rattle can the paint job? If so, there are many options to primer and then paint and then clear coat. Or you can get a pretty good result with one application of some paints that combine paint and primer. If you choose to stay with black, I have found the True Value Hardware XO brand in gloss black is a really good choice. Easy application and one step plus it is easy to touch up when needed. It really depends on what you wish for the quality of the finished paint job to be and how much time and money you wish to devote to it. Good, Better or Best?

A good time to look for any cracks in frame. But most of all show us a picture.

Thanks

Will definitely inspect for cracks and put primer on it right away as the temps here in Ohio are into the single digits for the next few days

Appreciate the feed back

What is the best spray paint if I decide to do red by chance ?

Ditcher, I use rattle can paint all the time. I’ve also started using self etching primer. I have my frames sand blasted & like to steel wool between coats of paint. It makes the color coats go on a lot smoother.

Also, read the instructions on the can about the recommended distance to hold the nozzle from the painting surface. It does vary from paint brand to paint brand.

Always start & end your spray off the surface. Never start spraying over the metal.

Finally, if you decide to use a clear top coat, make sure the clear coat is the same brand and type paint as the color coat it’s going over. Different brands & types can cause reactions with the base color. And I do at least 3-4 coats of clear, building up slowly. Then once the paint is cured, buff the clear coat with 3M buffing compound, to bring out that wet look!

Victor

Will do this don’t know how much I appreciate the detail and the guidance you have provided

That tanks turned out really awesome