Super Rat #1...

[viclioce]

Well, I figured out why the motor feels so tight. The crank is quite stuck into the right crank bearing.

I’ve tried heating things using a propane torch. Nope. Banged on it with a plastic mallet. Nope. Sprayed it with Knock’er Loose. Nope. Combined Knocker loose & heat. Nope.

Anyone have any ideas how I can get the crank freed from the bearing? I don’t have a press. C clamps won’t work due to alignment issues. I have a few good spare bearings. But, can’t change the bearing until I can get the crank unstuck from it.

And this is a freshly rebuilt motor! I’m wondering if the crank is warped???

Any ideas??? Victor

[Jakefoo]

Is the bearing out of the case and just stuck to the crankshaft?

[viclioce]

Well I got it loose by placing the case half in the vice & then hitting the crank with my plastic hammer.

Now, how do you remove a new, soft right crank seal! I’ve only removed hard ones. Is this seal going to get ruined trying to get it out? Should I order another right seal? Victor

[Jakefoo]

What brand of bearing was it? Just curious.

[viclioce]

Whatever Terry sells. But I think the problem is the crank, not the bearing. Victor

[taber hodaka]

Regardless of who sells the bearings I will only use a bearing made in Japan, Germany or America. Use a new seal as removal, could damage your existing seal. If your crankshaft went into the bearing easily during assembly then it could have got damaged when you installed the flywheel out of round, unless that was a different engine. Since 1964 I have always purchased my bearings locally. I don't quite understand if the bearing was stuck on the crankshaft did the bearing not turn freely? ------------- Clarence

[ossa95d]

Good question from Clarence. Even if the inner race is stuck on the shaft the bearing should still turn freely, unless possibly it wasn't completely seating/centering itself, which could produce serious side loads on the balls and races. This would certainly bind and cause bearing failure very quickly.

[olddogs]

The C clip on the right side should not allow the bearing to be cocked. Since both left and right bearings are the same common bearing found at any parts store, you can cheaply replace both. Then try swapping the crank 180 degrees and fit it in the right case. Rotate it. Then try fitting the left case. This should tell you if one side of the crank is out of line.

[TheBevman]

Vic,
If I read your post correctly, the bearing is still stuck on the crank. I had the same problem a few years back and picked up a set of bearing pullers from HF. https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-s ... 62593.html
Might be able to find a set a bit cheaper else where. Good luck.

Bev

[taber hodaka]

I am getting lost here-- bearing, snap ring. seal and crank. The bearing cannot come out if the snap ring is in place and it must be in place if Victor is concerned about damage when he removes the seal. ------------ Clarence

[olddogs]

I believe the crank was stuck in the right side bearing.as he states he put the case half in a vise and used a plastic hammer on the crank to get it free. Now he is trying to remove the seal without damage to get to the bearing. No idea how clutch side of crank got stuck in a new bearing.

[taber hodaka]

That is my understanding also. The price of a seal is cheap compared to a rebuilt engine I would use a new bearing also. ------ Clarence

[viclioce]

The seal got torn apart getting it out. Ordered new seal, new crank bearing, new lower cylinder gaskets and new head gaskets. I’m going to try reducing the size of the crank with 500 grit, just the right bearing surface. Don’t know if it will be an exercise in futility. But Alan has a spare crank he’s willing to trade me for an Ace cylinder. Either way, I want this bike done & gone. Victor

[Bullfrog]

The crank bearing journal was almost certainly the right size sometime back in the 1960's or 1970's - so I'm pretty sure that you are looking for and attempting to correct damage of some sort. I'd recommend a very close search for a dent (which often has a raised area around it) or a "lip" somehow formed at the edge/end of the journal area. Your careful use of 500 grit abrasive paper should show "high spots" after just a couple of strokes. (especially if you "paint" the whole journal with a blue Sharpie before starting".
Ed

[viclioce]

Didn’t think about painting it with a Sharpie. Thanks for that tip! I’ll report back what it find.

Now for the $64,000 question. What could have caused this kind of damage? Heat? Abuse? This bike has sat for more than 20+ years. Just curious... Victor

[Bullfrog]

Um, to quote Bill Cosby, "Why is there air?"
Ed
(pretty hard to make SWAGs - Scientific Wild A _ _ Guesses - when NO information has been provided regarding what kind of damage exists) . . . and does it matter? I'd much rather ponder where my next Irish Cream Latte is coming from than speculate on what might have damaged the bearing journal on a half century old crankshaft. The result of one musing is helpful . . . the other isn't.

[viclioce]

Sorry for the confusion. The crank was stuck in the bearing at the journal, inside the right case. Once crank was removed I was wondering if it was possible to remove the new seal without damage. The old ones get so hard as they age, they pop out quite easily. Not so with a brand new seal. But new one is on the way.

Ed. Have 2! You’ll feel better!

I had my second vaccine dose 2 days ago. It did me dirty yesterday. Recovering better today. They were right when they said the second dose can kick your butt! Victor

[dirty_rat]

I've got to ask. Was the crank stuck in the original bearing when you first tore down the engine to re-build? If not, then it got damaged after disassembly, or something else is causing the problem.

[olddogs]

I think this situation jumped from an earlier post where the rebuilt engine would not spin fast enough with the kicker to start. Some carb issues got mixed in. Something was dragging and a second tear down was started. The right side crank bearing was suspect. We will have to wait for an update. Even a crank stuck in a bearing should spin. My bet is a bent crank is mix. A twisted crank will also spin but drag inside the case. I have twisted them so bad i thought they were seized.

[viclioce]

Thanks olddogs.

These are the maladies of dealing with a bike with no history, oral or otherwise, bought from someone who was gonna rebuild it and bought from someone else who was going to rebuild it, who bought it from someone else, at a minimum. I shall tell Alan to send me that crank he offered.

BTW. What is your name? Victor

[olddogs]

Victor. You have to be the most dedicated champion of keeping the old brand running. My name is Brian and I used to be a frequent contributor to the tech section of the Hodaka newsletter. I started racing Hodies in 1970. We ran a 3 bike race team when my boys became old enough and earned 2 State Vintage Championship titles in 2014 and 2015. I restored bikes for customers until I retired a few years ago. Keep the torch burning.

[viclioce]

Thank you Brian. I’ve only been at it for about 8 years now. I still try to learn something new every day. I’ll be 65 on the last day of August.

I didn’t even know about Hodaka until we found that Model 03 with the 94/95 motor in it. Thanks, in part, to the folks here, I will have accomplished my 10th Hodaka with these 2 Rats.

My biggest mistake was in agreeing to sell them before they were complete. But it’s a live & learn experience.

But I’ll keep going because it gives me something to do that I enjoy! My teaching certificate expired and with Covid still causing issues with the schools opening completely, I’m not going to renew it again. 13 years of almost all donated time is enough for this man. Someone else can deal with them. Me? I just want to be happy saving Hodakas, and maybe a few other odds & ends!

Thanks for the words of encouragement. 8 years, started on bike #11 already. Just need to get this Rat out of my garage. Victor

[viclioce]

Well, the bent fork tube issues is now resolved! Terry messaged me that he found a single new upper fork tube left over from a previous sale of 1 last year. He was willing to part with it at a more than very reasonable price! Do it will be shipped tomorrow!

New fork tube, CHECK!
Replacement crank in its way, CHECK!
Electrical issues resolved, CHECK!

Almost there! Planning a quick trio to Douglas Wyoming soon! Victor

[taber hodaka]

When? Clarence

[viclioce]

Clarence. Once the bike is complete & tuned, I’ll call Kelly and see when it’s a good date to meet him. He lives in ND, so Douglas is half way for both of us. Won’t know until I speak with him after I finish. Why do you ask? Victor