The Hodaka Club Forum

The grip on my Wombat's kicker pedal is getting worn out and I want to replace it, but all the replacements I see on the hodaka-parts.com schematics are not the same grip. Anyone know what grip I have on there currently and where to find it? Or should I just replace this one with the one in all the schematics?

Here's the grip and pedal.

Nevermind I think, it looks like this is just a piece of hosing that was convincingly original for my untrained eyes.

I do have a more useful question though, I was wondering what you guys do about battery spilling with those unsealed lead acid batteries. Mine seems to leak a bit probably just because I've been going over bumps at about 25 mph. Is it just supposed to have a vent tube that goes to the ground? A few drops got on paint and seemed to discolor it, so I don't want that to happen more.

Yes, a vent tube is required for the exact reason you described. There should be a mounting bung on one corner at the top. Just run the tube straight to the ground through the gap in front of the swinging arm. Yep, that's a "whatever's laying around" looking replacement. I'm not suite sure your kick crank, spring, and cover are set up correctly. That looks like it will be a bit hard on the splines.

Thanks for explaining the vent setup. I noticed the kicker was really far out on the shaft and fixed it today, it still doesn't seat fully but much better than in the photo.

I'm quite concerned about the kick start lever assembly on to the kick start shaft. It is "hanging way out" on the end of the shaft . . . and WILL fall off after a while. And it will damage the splines too. The protective spring cup should be centered in the recess (see yellow lines on left side of photo) AND set deeply in the recess (which allows room for the kick lever to go farther on to the shaft).

Yellow lines at the right of the photo are intended to show that the kick shaft ought to come out pretty much flush with the face of lever mounting boss.

Finally, the kick start lever pinch bolt needs to be removed from the boss as the kick lever is slid down on to the shaft. Once slid on far enough, the bolt hole will line up with a recess in the shaft which is there to 1) allow the bolt to be inserted and 2) help keep the kick lever from falling off even if the pinch bolt isn't tight. HOWEVER, don't ever ignore a loose pinch bolt. The lever may not fall off - but it will "eating" the splines with every kick if the pinch bolt is loose.

NOTE: I'm betting someone will chime in with procedures for removing/reinstalling the kicker properly. (I hope - I've GOT to go get a few things done right now.)
Ed

Good call. That is a part you just don't want to sack out. I have a couple that don't seem to seat down all the way either. I suppose there are subtle kick crank differences between some models that don't arise to the level of incompatibility with others.

Hmm...my last message ended up in a strange place. Anyway, there is an excellent video produced by kelly that reviews the procedure perfectly. check it out. SoCal Hodaka

The Wombat & Ace kick shafts may look identical, but the Wombat has a wider frame so the arm of the kick shaft sticks out further in order to clear the frame properly.

I think Captain Ed hit the nail on the head with the bolt issue. You need to install the kick shaft lever with the bolt removed, and tap it on all the way so that the bolt goes in the groove between the splines. This will position your lever correctly.

Also, it’s usually more successful to install the kick lever with the clutch cover removed. This allows you to line up the ends of the springs in the case hole & in the lever.

Then, move the kick lever all the way to the 6 O’clock position & use a screwdriver in the hole of the brake lever to hold the lever in position while re-mounting the clutch cover. Bictor

Is this a Womvat motor in an Ace Frame? An Ace Motor in a Wombat frame? Something else??? Victor