The Hodaka Club Forum

Hello All - First Post
I have what I believe is a heavily modified ACE 100 based on frame and engine numbers. I've got a couple things in progress, but I'd like some thoughts on the fork being tight in the triple clamps. The fork is Cerani and might be a thing of the past eventually due to pitting, but for now I would like them in place as I'm sorting out cleaning up and greasing the the triple clamps, front wheel and all.

The tubes are a bear to get in and out of the triple clamps. The triple clamp suggest a little adjustability via the grooves, but every thing I've tried has not yielded much in the way of give and I don't want to get too heavy handed. Obviously I don't want the tubes going in loose, but it would be nice if they weren't difficult to get in as they are. The triple clamp nuts were completely out when inserting and removing tubes, couple pictures don't reflect that.

So is there any adjustability to the triple clamps as far as loosening up to make the tubes go in with reasonable effort. Only other thing I could think of is tubes are not straight, I think they are, I could disassemble and check? I've smoothed the pitting and don't think that's it. I did have the triple clamps loose so they wouldn't be a bind opportunity? Oh and they are not hanging up on the caps

Also any crossover, different make, model or brand as far as eventual fork replacement?

Appreciate any input.
Thank You

PS - Post more about the whole bike soon. It in tough shape, but lots of mods - back in the day aftermarket on it. I get the impression maybe somebody's old race enduro? That or just well prepped.

Well it looks like it has the Cerianni trees. I’d take some lube and lube the inside of the holes first. Also inspect inside the holes to make sure there no dirt, rust or other possible contaminants which are causing friction. It may be as simple as that.

Sometimes just removing the fork caps will also make the top of the tube less rigid and go in easier. I usually break the caps loose before removing the fork tubes from the trees just to have the leverage to open the caps up for draining.

Last course for me would be to use some wet 1000 grit sand paper & lightly work the inside of the holes, JUST to remove anything causing it to bind. Work slowly & don’t take too much off. Keep checking with the fork tubes & stop as soon as you don’t feel a lot of resistance. DO NOT try prying the holes open!!!!! Victor

Thank you for all the good advise Victor.
I have a little time later this afternoon and plan on applying your suggestions.

Are the clamp castings bent? As a fork leg is slid up toward the upper clamp, do the holes line up - or do you have to force the leg into alignment?
Ed

Try Tapping the "Top Tripple Clamp", Fork Clamp BOLT ClLEARENCE Hole" ("not the OEM Tapped side") to the Next size Metric or Inch tapped size for it.
This will produce 2 Large, and 2 OEM Small tapped holes in the top Fork holes.
The 2 New Large Taped holes will be for a "Pusher Bolts" to go in.
The 2 OEM Small one is for the Normal use Fork holding clamps.

Then place a small plate in the Slot Area (just enough to cover the OEM Tapped hole) that will become the base of the "Pushing Bolt".
Now screw the New Pusher Bolt (the size of the New Tapped hole) in.

The bolt will push on the Plate a little at a time until it spreads the Fork Hole enough for the Fork to go in.

When the forks are installed, Remove the Pusher Bolts, and plares then use the OEM Bolts to hold the Forks in Place.

If the fork slides easily through the bottom clamp from below and the top clamp from above, then triple alignment is the issue.