Looking for any tips on replacing the wheel bearings on a 250 ED. I don’t have a shop manual and I’m not sure they even made one. At least not that I’ve run across. The front doesn’t have a snap ring holding the bearings in place. I’ve hammered on them and heated them, then hammered some more. Wondering if I’m missing something simple before I start hitting harder.
Any other tips on tearing into an engine would be appreciated. I fear I’m going to have to have replace the oil seals. Looks like a crop duster when I fire the thing up. Brand new carb jetted and tuned and fresh has. So I know it’s not that.
Much thanks.
250 ED project
- Bullfrog
- Posts: 2784
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2013 4:05 pm
- Location: Oregon, 12 miles from the center of the Hodaka Universe(Athena)
Re: 250 ED project
Are you a member of the Hodaka Club? If so, you can access back issues of the Resonator Revisited, the club newsletter. There is a tech article about removing wheel bearings in there somewhere.
NOTE; You mentioned heating the bearings - if that was a literal report of what you've done, a slight change of procedures will help. Heat the hub but not the bearings. I like the "spit sizzle" method of identifying how hot things are getting. Of course you could just flick some water drops rather than spitting to confirm "sizzle" temp. Coming up to spit-sizzle temp on the hub will provide enough expansion to truly be helpful in releasing the bearings, but not so hot as to cause damage to the aluminum of the hub.
The tech article goes into some detail about the proper grind on your long drift punch to get a good grip on the inner bearing race for a good whack to drive the bearing out on the far side of the hub.
Ed
NOTE; You mentioned heating the bearings - if that was a literal report of what you've done, a slight change of procedures will help. Heat the hub but not the bearings. I like the "spit sizzle" method of identifying how hot things are getting. Of course you could just flick some water drops rather than spitting to confirm "sizzle" temp. Coming up to spit-sizzle temp on the hub will provide enough expansion to truly be helpful in releasing the bearings, but not so hot as to cause damage to the aluminum of the hub.
The tech article goes into some detail about the proper grind on your long drift punch to get a good grip on the inner bearing race for a good whack to drive the bearing out on the far side of the hub.
Ed
Keep the rubber side down!
Re: 250 ED project
I have a bearing removal tool for really tight bearings. It’s made by Pit Posse and I got mine from MetricThunder.com. :ugeek:Victor
1978 175SL
1976 03 Wombat
1975 99 Road Toad (2)
1973 96 Dirt Squirt (2)
1973 “Wombat Combat”
1973 Combat Wombat
1972 94 Wombat (2)
1972 Super Squirt
1971 92B+ Ace
1970 92B Ace 100B (2)
1968 92 Ace 100
1966 Ace 90
; D Victor
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- Posts: 30
- Joined: Sun May 27, 2018 5:43 pm
- Location: Portland, OR
Re: 250 ED project
Thanks Ed, I’ve been meaning to join the club and just kept forgetting. All joined up now. Now to start reviewing the back issues. I’ll also look into those bearing drivers. Might be a good addition to the tool box.
Marlin
Marlin
Re: 250 ED project
Just as a note, the bearings have to be removed from the opposite side of the hub, the left hand bearing is knocked out from the right hand side. Use a long drift and insert through the axle hole and catch the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side. Tap on the drift and work your way around the circumference until it comes out (make sure to heat the hub as noted above).
Re: 250 ED project
Glad to hear about your 250 project. Was wondering if anyone had a whole bike or a project 250 for sale. Just finishing a super combat project and thinking about the future.
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