The Hodaka Club Forum

If anyone has one they would consider selling at a reasonable price.

The one I have has dents. 2 on the upper right side if the tank, & 1 down lower rear of center.

If you have one you can sell, let me know. I can deal with rust easier than I can deal with dents. Victor

Hi Victor. Could you take an over-head, straight down picture of the tank? I'm not sure that isn't an Ace tank - a direct swap. If it is indeed a Super Rat tank, unless you're extremely lucky or have a grand and a couple years to wait, you won't do better that that one. Quality SR toaster tanks are getting scarce trending to unobtanium. I wish I was wrong and would love to be proven otherwise. A dinged up tank with solid metal and minimal internal rust beats no dents and nice chrome with a bunch of pinhole rust-throughs any day in my book. One option is to replace it with a CW/DS tank. Same slim profile as a SR tank but with the large filler hole.

Well, Matt, I’m hoping Maxie, or Clarence, or some of the other guys might have one laying around that they aren’t using & just holding on to for posterity.

Here’s the top down shot of the tank. Yes it’s skinny! Victor

Matt. It also had a good rust out hole in the bottom, behind the right petcock. I’ve welded it shut and it doesn’t leak. But I still have to clean the rust out. Couldn’t do that until it would retain liquid.

Here are a couple of Before & After shots of the hole/repair. And as is obvious by my technique, I’m not a trained welder. But at least it holds fluid now! Victor

Anyone?
Bueller?
Bueller?
Bueller?

Victor

Looks good to me, Victor. Holds fuel - mount it up.

victor i had a seam on a tank, it was like weeping not a drip -drip. and i put some painters tape about a 1/4 inch away from the seam cleaned it with a dremmal with a wire brush attachment and then applied i nice coating of JB-WELD on it, not to thick, not to thin , then after it set up i gave it a little touch up and a lite coat of chrome looking paint stopped the leak of course this is a rider and not a garage queen but you have to know what your looking at to see it. maybe you can help your weld look a little better if you tape around your weld and smooth it out with the same technique. but im with matt , holds fuel - good to go ....albert

Also, you'd have to lay on the ground and look up to see the repair. I think you've knocked this one out of the park, Victor.

My concern at this point is more how the tank looks. I’m selling the bike, not keeping it. Would like it to be both accurate and good looking.

I’m even going to fab up a rear number plate holder. Just me being picky. I have a good Ace tank I can polish up, but would rather have a dent free Rat tank. Guess it’s time to talk to the buyer. :ugeek:Victor

Well I talked to the buyer today. Explained the unobtainium situation with Rat Tanks. He said he’d rather have a good Ace tank, which I have! So, I’m going to use the Ace tank & maybe offer the Super Rat tank for sale. Victor

perfect. i doubt if you will have a problem selling the tank.

He gets this tank! And I get a reprieve! Victor

I have a rat tank that developed pinhole leaks in the top of the tunnel. Seems like a weird place. I'm considering an external coating of Red-Kote. Any thoughts on this?

I have four tanks that I treated with Caswell 2-part epoxy tank sealer and it has held up perfectly for, in one case, over six years and three are on race bikes to boot. The key is to follow the directions with as much obsessive/compulsive unflinching precise perfection you can muster. Details, details, details, but the results have been flawless.

What Matt said.
Tape or glue the exterior to temporarily hold the coating inside until it sets up. Caswell is the real deal.

Right on, Dale. This spring, I got out of shape on a berm turn and got stuffed hard enough to put a 6cm long by 2-3mm deep crease on my Super Rat toaster tank (yes, I know how stupid it is to race with the toaster on, but it is sooooooo freakin cooooooooool). The Caswell lining just laughed it off. I had a bud check it out with one of those little fiberoptic inspection camera thingys and there are no cracks whatsoever. It ends setting up like an ultraviscous liquid that can take a hit. Great stuff.

OK. So I’m willing to sell this current Rat tank I have. I put the Ace tank on my Super Rat project after discussion with the buyer.

I will let the tank go for $100 as is or if you want me to run Muriatic Acid thru the inside to clean out the rust, I can do that for an additional $30. It costs $15 to buy a gallon, or you can buy it and try your luck at it. Or you can clean the inside however you want and coat it! If anyone wants it, let me know. Shipping is about $45 also because of the size of the box. Victor.

I spent good time today polishing up the Ace Tank for the Super Rat. Buffed it doenceith Mother’s metal & chrome polish. Wet rubbed the little bit of putting it had with aluminum foil & water. Now it has 2 coats of Simichrome on it and the fenders! Here’s some pics! Victor

Well, remember that Ace tank I showed you hanging on the wall? I put it on the bike, polished it and gave it 2 coats of Simichrome!

Then I decided to take a picture of it from the top to show Alan how nicely the new cap lined up, right reading!

Notice anything about the shoulders of this tank? Or should I say the missing shoulders of this tank? Does anyone else think like me, that Alan sent me a Rat tank and not an Ace tank? Victor

Another overhead view of the tank. Is it Ace or is it Rat? Victor

Just measure the width of your two tanks, then you can tell us what you have. Clarence

Rat tank = 5” at rear and 9” at the badges.
Ace tank = 6” at rear and 10” at badges.

Original tank with dents is a Rat tank. Replacement tank sent to me by Alan is an Ace tank. Victor