The Hodaka Club Forum

I’m changing countershaft sprocket. When I snug up nut, sprocket doesn’t spin very freely. It acts like it’s binding up. Parts list shows a “countershaft spacer” part #914608R. Is that spacer behind seal? Or should that slide off with collar.
My bike is a 1972 B+ with a B motor.
Thanks

Counter shaft spacers are the same for for models 91, 92, 93, 92A, 93A, 92B, 92B+. Part number 914607R is the right side counter shaft spacer, #914608R is the left side counter shaft spacer. The proper secondary sprocket collar is part number 924609 which covers the models 92,93,92A,93A,92B, and the 92B+ and maybe more. The counter shaft spacers go on the counter shaft inside the engine. The sprocket collar goes on the outside. -----Clarence

Gotcha,
So is it ok that the sprocket kinda binds up when I snug Up nut? Don’t really know how to explain it better via txt.

Is it possible that the countershaft is spinning inside the case bearing, but when you tighten the sprocket it tightens on a somewhat jammed bearing? You might be able to see if the inner race is turning with the shaft when the collar is removed and the shaft turned. The seal also comes out pretty easily if you need a better look.

These bearings usually get loose and rumbly, but rust will do the opposite. The shaft is usually a snug fit in the bearing but if it's been spinning inside the bearing it may be looser now.

Is the shifter shaft in neutral both before and after you snug the nut up? Usually you end up in fifth when you put a socket on it; there are false neutrals between gear positions.

To answer your question, no, it shouldn't make any difference whether the sprocket nut is loose or tight.

have you had the engine apart?-------Clarence

Motor has not been apart since I got it.
The nut was loose when I put a socket on it to take off old sprocket. I don’t think case bearing is spinning, what I can see with seal in, with no pressure on it. Seal is being stubborn coming out, is there a trick? Should I plan on new seal? Case bearing spinning is exactly how it feels when I tighten nut.

You can drill a [1/16"?]hole for a small self tapping screw on each side of the seal and pull alternately with pliers. I've had success with putting a sharp 180 bend in a coat hanger and grinding it thin enough to slip in and hook the seal from behind.

Seals can look pretty good and tempt you to leave them in or reuse them, but if you get them clean and dry and examine the lip with a magnifying glass while you bend it you can often see tiny cracks in the rubber like an old tire sidewall. These won't necessarily cause leaks immediately, but under use the rubber can split and crumble. The two left side seals are easily replaceable but the RH crank seal is not.

If the counter shaft seal was leaking it needed replaced, if it didn't leak it could have been okay?? A slight counter shaft leak would not ruin the engine but a crankshaft seal could would ruin the motor. .02 cents ----Clarence

I pulled seal out,then tightened sprocket on, and now I have “normal to me” rotation. So all of the binding and friction was the seal. Weird...cuz I could hardly spin sprocket by hand with seal in. Bearing looks and feels fine.
I’ll order new seal Monday and see what happens.

When I purchased this bike I got list of things previous owner did or had done to motor. (Kinda vague)
In 2000 a rebuild. I’m assuming top end.
In 2007 crank seals
In 2014 countershaft seal
From the top end work till now, less than a 1000 miles have been put on bike according to speedo.
If I believe speedo

could have been the wrong seal or not seated in far enough. Clarence

New seal did the trick. Spins freely