The Hodaka Club Forum

So, I have been with my wife for 8 years. I have walked around her parent's property a lot over the years. I have walked past a bike frame and a complete bike dozens of times. Until last evening, I decided to ask about them.

One is a frame for a 1970 Honda 350 street legal bike. It is my father in law's first bike. The motor and other pieces are stored in various places around the property. Thats another story...

The other bike...

1974 Dirt Squirt (E-08959). I asked my wife about them. She said her dad bought the bike around 1996 or 1997, ($400 according to my mother in law, much to her dismay). He bought the bike for the kids. My wife rode it once and wrecked. My brother in law rode it for some time, then it died, and here it sets.

I plan to disassemble while we are here the next couple of days and take it home in pieces to begin the project.

Wide awake now posting about it and I will post some pics when I get daylight, but from what I saw, it seems pretty straightforward.

Likely parts I will need before I even try to start it are...

(And parts I can get inline)

Repaint frame and parts since I will have it disassembled.
Air filter
Carb rebuild
3 cable set
Tires
Seat
Engine rebuild kit with the seals and gaskets? Or top end rebuild kit? Or? Not sure on this one as I am not a two stroke guy.

The bikes seem pretty simple, especially the DS since it is a straight dirt bike with no lights.

Not sure what else I might be missing.

Pics to follow...

Here are some pictures

Looks to me like you have a very good starting point. You will have fun, get to know a bunch of good people in the Hodaka family and maybe best of all you will save a Hodaka from the scrap pile.

Yup. Thats the plan!

Only problem I have found is the tank. By all accounts according to the frame code, the tank should be chrome. The later DS bikes were red.

I need to find the engine code to verify that as well before I start buying parts.

Welcome. Fun times ahead!
It does appear to be the earlier Dirt Squirt so not sure about the tank. Perhaps it is painted over the chrome?
The engine is iron barreled, non-reeded and no oil injection. It also has the earlier style (one piece) shift cover.

The engine number can be located on the front of the right half case just inside of the clutch actuating arm. The model 96 Dirt Squirt motors started at P62366.

Regardless of motor, these are great little bikes. Known as the "Fun Hundred" usually heard as fun hunerd...

Get a workshop manual for it ASAP. They don't make one for the Dirt Squirt, but it is close enough to the Ace 100 and Super Rat (93) that it should answer many questions. They make a manual that covers the Ace 90, Ace 100 and Super Rat.

Once you begin to get into it you will find it is one of the easiest bike around to work on. Great start to a project, good luck with it.

Do the complete rebuild kit. Gives you new gaskets and seals which should always be updated. Also check the kick roller retainer or plan on that upgrade also. Don’t lose any of the spacer washers.

Ready to go home.

Nice Squirt! And it has a 1 down 4 up shifter case! Nice find! You’re going to have lots of fun with this one. Hardly any wiring to deal with too!

Here’s an Ace Shop manual. Can’t believe the price on it. But it now! Too cheap to pass up!!! Good luck!!! Victor

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hodaka-Ace-90- ... Sw5d5fVRj4

viclioce wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 5:36 pm Nice Squirt! And it has a 1 down 4 up shifter case! Nice find! You’re going to have lots of fun with this one. Hardly any wiring to deal with too!

Here’s an Ace Shop manual. Can’t believe the price on it. But it now! Too cheap to pass up!!! Good luck!!! Victor

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hodaka-Ace-90- ... Sw5d5fVRj4

Done! Thanks for the link!

Only thing that I was not able to breakneck was the exhaust. I wanted to have the motor out yesterday, but rather than risk it, I left it in. Sprayed PB blaster on it last night.

Every other bolt broke free fine. Only mounting problem is the front saddle mount rusted through. Looking at the price and rarity if those, I am going to have to get creative there.

Have a good one all!

ddvorak wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 4:26 am The engine is iron barreled, non-reeded and no oil injection. It also has the earlier style (one piece) shift cover.

Reading through again, I picked this out on purpose.

Not sure the meaning if reeded, as I am not much if a two stroke guy. But from what I read, it just means there is no real control to fluid control and I have to mix fuel. I don't fully understand the plus or minus to that? (I have chainsaws so mixing fuel is not new to me)

Same with it being iron barreled and having a one piece shift cover - what are the plus or minus or need to knows for that?

Thanks guys, really getting excited for this little project.

mevertsen wrote: ↑Fri Oct 09, 2020 2:33 am

ddvorak wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 4:26 am The engine is iron barreled, non-reeded and no oil injection. It also has the earlier style (one piece) shift cover.

Reading through again, I picked this out on purpose.

Not sure the meaning if reeded, as I am not much if a two stroke guy. But from what I read, it just means there is no real control to fluid control and I have to mix fuel. I don't fully understand the plus or minus to that? (I have chainsaws so mixing fuel is not new to me)

Same with it being iron barreled and having a one piece shift cover - what are the plus or minus or need to knows for that?

Thanks guys, really getting excited for this little project.

I made note of the items that identified as the earlier Dirt Squirt (Model 96) versus the later Dirt Squirt (Model 01). One could say that each item brought with it some improvement, but the model 96 Dirt Squirt is a blast in its original form.

The model 96 was an iron cylinder while the later model 01 was a lined aluminum cylinder and is physically larger in appearance.

Yes, you will need to use pre-mixed fuel. There are many many options. A popular formula is Yamalube 2R mixed at 32:1 with non-ethanol gas.

Many Dirt Squirts were modified for reed induction. This also required a modified piston and cylinder and provided a performance boost and easier tuning but still requires pre-mixed fuel.

The function of the older 1 piece shift covers and the later 2 piece covers are the same. There are 4 styles of shifters for the the small bore models. The Ace 90 will say Ace 90 and are 1 up - 3 down. The Ace 100's will say Ace 100 and are 1 up - 4 down. Then there are shifters like yours that say Hodaka and they are 1 down - 4 up. The later (painted tank) models have the separate cover for the magneto and the shifter is a second piece.

I got the book today. I am still trying to get the exhaust pipe loose so I can remove the motor from the frame and get the frame and all other components blasted and painted.

On the Ace style exhaust nut, I generally do as you did and spray it with a penetrating solvent. PB Blaster or Knock’er Loose.

Then I use a drift and a hammer & sit on the left side of the bike and “tap tap tap, tap tap tap, tap tap tap,” until the ring spins off. Sometimes a few strikes, sometimes striking it until it comes all the way off! Victor

mevertsen wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 2:44 am Here are some pictures

What part of the country is this?

It must be a very dry climate, I'm amazed at how corrosion-free this bike is after sitting outside for at least a couple of decades .

Darrell wrote: ↑Wed Oct 14, 2020 4:50 pm

mevertsen wrote: ↑Thu Oct 08, 2020 2:44 am Here are some pictures

What part of the country is this?

It must be a very dry climate, I'm amazed at how corrosion-free this bike is after sitting outside for at least a couple of decades .

North Central Nevada. The desert is very kind to metal.

viclioce wrote: ↑Wed Oct 14, 2020 3:03 pm On the Ace style exhaust nut, I generally do as you did and spray it with a penetrating solvent. PB Blaster or Knock’er Loose.

Then I use a drift and a hammer & sit on the left side of the bike and “tap tap tap, tap tap tap, tap tap tap,” until the ring spins off. Sometimes a few strikes, sometimes striking it until it comes all the way off! Victor

This is exactly what I did. Got it loose after about half and hour of gentle taps.

Got the motor out, and just have the kick stand and foot pegs to remove from the frame. Then remove the rear swing arm and it is ready to get blasted and painted.

The person who is doing to work for that has two other bikes he is doing this winter, so this is going to sit for a bit until he is ready. I also have a wrecked four wheeler I aquired, which will get the bulk of my short term energy.

I will update the thread when I have the frame done.

Toaster tank DS is key to the most fun you can have on two wheels. From cruising along the trails to an impromptu scramble, I think they are the best pure, all-round dirt bike ever made. I will look forward to the update.

Well. I am resurrecting this thread.

I dropped off the frame and all parts day before yesterday to get blasted and primed.

Now I just need to pick colors.

I know the codes are ki d of hit and miss, but what I am looking for is a color that should match close.

Is there anyone that might have an idea?

The kickstand, handle bars, foot pegs are all going to be matte black.

The frame, tank and all "body" parts are going g to be whatever red color I can come up with.

This will be a two stage, probably matte finish, no clear coat.

Thanks guys, and I will post pics when its all painted. Should be done in two weeks!

I bought an Ace 90 and a 1973 Dirt Squirt in early Dec. they are sitting in the back yard right now. Waiting in line so to speak! Maybe this Sumner! Victor

There are several posts here on the forum that discuss the color of the chrome tank Dirt Squirt frames. Here is one that I found right off.
http://hodakaforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4420

It looks like 6607 should work.

Some suggestions for red frame paint have been; Valspar 'Outdoor Red', Rustoleum 7564 Safety Red, Krylon 1960 Troy Built Red, Krylon Banner Red, VHT Holden Rocket Red, Ford engine paint enamel.

MTrat wrote: ↑Sun Jan 17, 2021 6:45 am Some suggestions for red frame paint have been; Valspar 'Outdoor Red', Rustoleum 7564 Safety Red, Krylon 1960 Troy Built Red, Krylon Banner Red, VHT Holden Rocket Red, Ford engine paint enamel.

Perfect. Thank you.