ACE 90 or 100 TT style bikes

[AndyL]

I have an ACE90 rolling chassis with an ACE 100 motor in it and a second early ACE100 chassis with a couple motors in a box.

My plan is to build one or two early TT style Hodaka's. I probably wont swap over to 18" front and rear and will just use the 17" rims instead.

A couple of questions:
Has anyone installed 3.50 x 17 tires on the front of an Ace, and have any pictures?

And, any suggestions as to what sprockets to run, front and rear?

Also, I would appreciate any links or pics of some Hodaka's TT style as reference.

[AndyL]

OK, borrowed some tires/rims and did some mock up. I wont be trying to fit the 3.50's.

The other two questions/requests still stand:

Any suggestions as to what size sprockets to run, front and rear?

And I would appreciate any links or pics of some Hodaka's TT style as reference.

[michael_perrett]

Andy, go to technical tips on this site and go down to "Modifing the Ace 100 for flat track or TT racing". I have a paper copy of this and could send you one, if you perfer.
Mike

[junker2k]

Andy, I ran 3.25 tires on my 100cc Flat tracker but only on tracks smaller than 1/8 mile. On the bigger tracks I ran 3.00 K-70.
I ran mostly 17 inch wheels but on really rough tracks I would go up to 18 inch. The 18 inch wheel and tire are heaver but they do roll better in the turn on a rough track. If you make the swing arm longer a 3.50 tire will fit but it cost to much Hp to pull that much tire and you don't need. You will need to add at least 1 inch to the swing arm. If you go by the Modifing the Ace 100 for flat track or TT racing you can't go wrong. But don't use the amal carb. The amal work very good when they work but when the start to go bad just junk them. We went to 32mm to 36mm Mikuni carbs.
As for gearing, I used a 40 tooth on the back and from 12-17 for the front. This will cover most tracks that a 100cc will run on.
Jack K

[AndyL]

Thanks Mike. I had forgot about the Tech Tip's. I will read two of them later today (HT-4 and the TT one).

Jack K: Thanks for the info/tips. I have already started ordered some parts and dug out some other spares to start a pile that will soon become my own little TT.

Here is what I am starting with: The ACE90 motor doesnt run (piston) but I have a rebuilt ACE100 motor already tested to go in its place.

[AndyL]

Now that I have a down pipe on the way (thank you very much Bob!) this is the direction I am going with the TT style.

I will swap to a down pipe, fab up some mounts and paint the tank silver. I will keep the tank as low as it sits in the picture.
Already made a seat pan and have to fab the mounts.
Talked to my upholsterer and he is ready for me to drop off the pan and has seen the bike, so he knows the style I am going for.
Also strip and paint the headlight bucket and do the halogen bulb / headlight shell conversion.
Figure out some sort of air cleaner and of course, flip the Boge's back up the right way.
Then take it all apart again for paint.
Hope to have it running and licensed for use as my transport while at Mid-Ohio this year.

[Pep]

NICE lines!!
Can't wait to see the progress photos
Very cool!
-Laurie

[junker2k]

While you at it, remove all the extra tabs and any other metal on the frame that is not needed. Move the pegs back and weld them, on this will save a few pounds. Also if you are really are going to race it add a new steering head on the front and at least one inch to the swing arm.
If you use the technical tips to modify the motor, the short wheel base is a hand full to control and if you really pump up the motor it becomes all most impossible to keep the back end from passing the front end. One thing not to do is remove the kick starter, Like Harry told me you want to do what, and look like a total dumb ass pushing it every time to start it, "NO" .
Jack K

[AndyL]

Quick question about brake light switches: What are you guys using to replace the original brake light switches? I have a couple that are shot and wont function, it is also a sealed switch, and I have not tried to open one up yet or soak it in Evapo-Rust or anything like that (yet).

Any one find a suitable replacement? I would prefer not to use the generic cylinder shaped brake light switches.

Also, here is where the TT project sits now; new headlight, LED tail light, found some nice fitting bars, switches, and levers. Starting in on the wiring now.

[rlkarren]

Brake light switch? yes, I searched for golf cart brake switches on eBay. I found a couple that look very similar to original hodaka parts.

Here's one I was looking at awhile back: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130990237246?ss ... 1423.l2649

I have one similar to this on my Ace 90: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Brake ... a6&vxp=mtr (for this one I made a bracket to hold it that attached to the original switch mount)

Roger

PS that headlight bucket is a VERY early one, (evidenced by the raised speedometer mount and lack of chrome mounting brackets. Only used on the first 200 or so Ace 90's), and in my experience, VERY rare. The later buckets were the same size, but only slightly different. just in case you didn't know...

[AndyL]

Thanks Roger. Didnt know the differences in headlight shells. I just like the shape and look of the ACE90 shells. I have another one put away and will check it, but I think it has chrome mounts. I have a third shell, but a PO hacked out the speedo opening to fit a bigger speedo and I just cant bring myself to throw it away. Someday i will fix it.

I saw the first switch you listed below and am just waiting on it to show up.

I dont like the second one listed just because I dont want to have to rig up another mount for it.

The guys at OreillyAuto say that they can find just about any switch I have in their "big book of medicine". We will find out this afternoon if they really can or were just talking smack! They just love to see me come in the door.

Thanks again for the info.

[AndyL]

Roger,
That first switch you linked to will work/fit for me just fine. I got a couple online and they showed up yesterday.

I went ahead and soaked the original brake light switch in Evapo-Rust overnight and once it dried off, after a few cycles of the pin, it started working just fine. Probably broke up the rust coating that was keeping the contact from getting made.

Will still use the new one, but good to know I can save an old one. Just not sure how reliable it will be.

Thanks again.

FYI: the TT Hodaka will be my transport around Mid-Ohio this coming July.

[Dale]

Andy,
I am a big fan of Evapo-Rust and have found that the best results for keeping the rust from returning is to wash off the derusted part with soap and water. Air dry it. Then coat it with Evapo-Rust Rust-Block spray and then let it dry. The rust will not return for a long long time.
Dale