Newly rebuilt Dirt Squirt bogging down

[robbnc]

Well I finally got the Dirt Squirt fired up, fired on 4th kick after complete rebuild. Idles smooth, revs nicely while stationary, maybe a little excess smoking but not too bad and it clears up with a little throttle. After that first start it literally starts on first kick every time. After several static heat cycles I decided to ride it this afternoon. It seems to be bogging under load above 1/4 throttle. Under 1/4 it's smooth. It almost seems like a fuel starvation problem .

For the record engine was completely rebuilt. Tank is clean, vent is clear, petcocks are new, fuel lines are new, carb was ultrasonicly cleaned and triple checked before complete rebuild. All carb jets and setting are stock as per the manual, pipe was barbecued complete clean. Timing is spot on with all new ignition parts. Mixture is non ethonal premium 32:1. Golden Spectro.

I'm thinking my first move will be to raise needle a notch to see if that helps or makes it worse. That can't really hurt anything.

Any suggestions from Hodaka tuners would be welcome.

[Bullfrog]

Which model of Squirt? Toaster tank (iron cylinder) or painted tank (alloy cylinder)?

Yes, raising the needle a notch or two to note whether things get better or worse can't hurt a thing - and might provide a bit of useful information.

Ed

[robbnc]

Oh I did leave that out didn't I ? It's a 96. Toaster tank, iron cylinder.

[Bullfrog]

OK. Toaster tank Squirt. You also didn't mention the air cleaner condition. Curious about that.
Ed

[robbnc]

The air filter element and cage are brand new. The filter housing has been cleaned and painted, the rubber boot was reconditioned air tight.

[matt glascock]

A few quick questions: 1) Was the engine well warmed up prior to the "speed trials"? 2) What spark plug are you using? 3) Proper gap? 4) Have you tried swapping for a brand new plug?, and 5) what does the firing end of the plug look like? Every so often, you can get a bogus plug. Also might be time to inspect the stator components looking for cold solder joints/questionable connections. A bogus condenser connection can make a perfectly dialed bike appear to run rich and foul plugs. I had to learn that lesson the hard way.

[robbnc]

[/quote]

A few quick questions: 1) Was the engine well warmed up prior to the "speed trials"? 2) What spark plug are you using? 3) Proper gap? 4) Have you tried swapping for a brand new plug?, and 5) what does the firing end of the plug look like? Every so often, you can get a bogus plug. Also might be time to inspect the stator components looking for cold solder joints/questionable connections. A bogus condenser connection can make a perfectly dialed bike appear to run rich and foul plugs. I had to learn that lesson the hard way.

Engine was warm...NGK B-8S... .025...have not swapped plugs...plug is dark tan...points are new, condenser is new, exciter coil is new, ignition coil, wire and cap are new, kill switch is new, wires are new, all connections were checked and rechecked before assembly, spark is strong.

[matt glascock]

Air is good. Spark is good. So its back to fuel (assuming compression is good). Crazo-detail carburetor eval? Chase all passages with copper wire, etc. In-line fuel filter, yes? Was the engine leak-tested after reassembly?

[Bullfrog]

Let's complete the "almost no tools and no carb parts needed" test(s) first.

Robb is already planning to make a "jetting run" with a richer needle setting. Easy to do and no parts needed.

Another easy "no parts" test involves removing the air cleaner element and taking a quick squirt. If the machine suddenly perks up with the air cleaner removed . . . the element may just be over-oiled.

So these are two (quick) tests which require no carb parts . . . one provides "richer" (better? worse?) . . . and the other provides a possibly leaner condition (better? worse?)

Ed

[robbnc]

Thanks for all your input guys, I believe we have solved the problem. I raised the needle a notch and now the Squirt screams. Wheelies in 2nd and 3rd, rooster tails...smooth as silk. I really didn't expect that much change but it did the trick. Impressive power for a 100cc trail bike! I'm just gonna ride it the rest of the summer and wait till winter to paint the frame and put new tires on. Thanks again!

[matt glascock]

Groovie. As thorough as the rebuild is per your description, I would have been surprised if anything beyond a bit of tweaking here and there wouldn't solve the problem. Great news.

[Bullfrog]

Sorry to sound like a stickler . . . but I'm a bit cautious about jetting which moves one step richer from a known too lean condition - and calling that good.

I'd highly recommend going another step richer on the needle clip position to see if things go just a hint rich. If it does, then you KNOW the clip position you have now is good and you could go back to it without concern.

Ed

[robbnc]

Sorry to sound like a stickler . . . but I'm a bit cautious about jetting which moves one step richer from a known too lean condition - and calling that good.

I'd highly recommend going another step richer on the needle clip position to see if things go just a hint rich. If it does, then you KNOW the clip position you have now is good and you could go back to it without concern.

Ed

Absolutely Ed. I fully intended to move it on up as long as it improves. It's just good to know it's pretty much there and doesn't have some awful hard to find issue, I already spent a ton of money on this engine.

[matt glascock]

Dig