The Hodaka Club Forum

Hello
I finally found a Hodaka I wanted. Model 92B +.
B+ frame with B motor. I think? Looks like it has a RT front hub and wheel. It runs fairly decent. Clutch may be weak. I remember these being faster when I was a kid. My dad was a dealer here in West Michigan early 70s. I get to relive my childhood.
I’m planning on stripping it down either paint or powder coat. I’m in need of a shop manual for this bike. Neither Terry or Bruce have one.
I’ll have lots of questions in the future.
Brian

Hi Brian!

Nice Ace you found there! Almost looks to nice to read apart. Every thoughts of just a clean up and refresh?

This is an awesome group with a wealth of knowledge. Enjoy getting to know you new bike, and look forward to seeing the progress, whatever you choose.

Trever

Nice bike!

I'm also wondering why you would want to strip it down and paint it. It looks great . . . and it is only "original" ONE time. Admittedly, someone put a later hub/wheel up front (curable) - but the rest of it looks pretty much like it did the day it came out of the factory (zowee!).

Having said the above . . . it is your bike . . . and your option. Above all, have fun with the scooter!

Ed

I did some cleanup on it and my rag turned orange. Previous owner rattle canned the frame and didn’t prep it.

1st question
I pulled the side covers, I’m gonna blast,paint and clear. I’m trying to get all the parts out of shifter side, part number 902020 is a shifter pin, is that supposed to slide outTo get the shifter guide and shifter arm out?
Thanks, Brian

Yes, the pin needs to be removed to get the rest of the parts out. There is a grease fitting on the outside of the cast that needs to be unscrewed/taken off and then the pin can be driven out through that opening. On the Ace cases, I believe there is a hole in the magneto area which leads to that pin. Push the pin out through this hole. Don't try to push it into the magneto area as it has a small peened area to stop it from going that way.

I wasn’t sure how much force it took to go out grease fitting hole. I’ll tap it some more.
Thanks, Brian

Wow... Talk about SHOCK!!! I bought my Ace90/100/100B/MX100 shop manual on eBay about 4 years ago for around $40. I just looked now and the only one there, the guy wants $155.96 for it. But, free shipping. OMG! What’s this world coming to???? Victor

One on ebay now. $24.99

Search;
Hodaka Ace 90 workshop manual 1967

What was the name of your Dad's dealership?

Clare’s Sport Shop
Holland, MI

He sold Hodaka and Montesa bikes. Gemini mini bikes. Scorpion snowmobiles.

Geary. I looked it up, but it’s only a Hodaka 90 manual. He would need all the updates to the year of his Ace!

I will check my stable. I have a couple bikes with shop stickers from Michigan. BTW, that orange dust you wiped off the frame may be oxidized original paint. Sun exposure tended to make the red paint take on an orange color.

I’m not a big fan of fleabay, But I just bought a manual
off fleabay for Ace 90 with a Ace 100 supplement. I hope that will work for me. You tell me.
Brian

MichiganBrian wrote: ↑Wed Apr 01, 2020 3:07 pm I’m not a big fan of fleabay, But I just bought a manual
off fleabay for Ace 90 with a Ace 100 supplement. I hope that will work for me. You tell me.
Brian

Yes, that should fit the bill perfectly.

I'm late on this one, but to remove #19, part 902020 Shifter Pin from Magneto Cover.....

Heating the Magneto Cover near the pin location will help both on removal and installation.

I use a heat gun & wear gloves.

I expect careful use of a bernzomatic type torch will do as well.

As I recall I always push from outside the cover towards the inside. I do not recall seeing a restriction on direction of the "push".

For MichiganBrian: I will scan and e-mail any pages you might like from my Hodaka Workshop Manual Supplement Model Ace 100B & email them to you.

I know you don't know page numbers. Just tell me what areas on the bike you are interested in.

aharpster at copper dot net

Thanks for all of your help and support. I was able to tap shifter pin out thru grease fitting hole.
Brian

I made some progress finally (I thought)
I decided not to do a total paint. I went thru most things, cleaned and polished most everything. Every nut and bolt. Painted a few things. 2 things needed addressed...
1. Clutch didn’t feel right.
2. No power in 5th gear.
I blue printed clutch, replaced inner and outer springs. Fiber and steel plates were within spec. Shimmed to 3/32” play.
I now still have same issue, when I click in 1st gear it wants to move. Impossible to find neutral when it’s running too.
Help
No power in 5th issue has me befuddled.
I’m 230lb guy, stock road gear, 15/36.
It runs out nice 1st-4th, when I click in 5th it’s like I hit a wall. Nothing there, down shift to 4th and wind it out (45mph) click 5th...nothing..
I went down a tooth on countershaft, I thru my pipe in the fire, Cooked that till well done to make sure that wasn’t restricted..
It still acts the same. Any ideas
Thanks, Brian

I have a 100B+, all same. Not as tidy, but acceptable as a 'work bike' . You're not going to find much 'power' in fifth with road gearing. The bike does about 45-50 in fourth and fifth either acts as overdrive to keep the revs down or allows you to use slope and wind to get to 60 or whatever if you're making yourself small and low.

From what I've determined by the baffle/spark arrestor in mine, the outlet from the inlet baffling to the 'swirl can' is probably too restricted. It's just a 'cut and fold in' type of thing, and mine was just not open enough, IMHO. The diameter of the outlet baffle is 1/2", which seems small, but you need a certain amount of back pressure to broaden the power band in the midrange. I don't see any reason for less than 1/2" at the inlet to the can unless I've missed something, which is possible.

What I DO know is that mine Finally ran right at speed after I took a torch to that inlet and heated the inner pipe up and smoked the carbon out. I don't know what is in there exactly because you can't see, but when the smoke stops you're in business again. This helped a lot, but then I did some alterations to that inlet point so it was closer to the final outlet dimensions and I'm now grinning.

Too much back pressure can cook the exhaust side of the piston, and also cause the engine to work harder at pumping the exhaust out thus losing torque; the loss won't be as noticeable at full rpm, but when you shift it tends to fall flat.

The other question is how much compression you have and the general condition of the top end. There's no piston or ring availability for the stock piston, but the Wiseco equivalent is available in lots of sizes from HodakaParts and has worked great on my bike.

Another variable is fuel and jetting. The manual says the needle should be in the fourth notch from the top, but my recollection of the owner's manual of the day said that you should have the dealer move the needle to the third notch after the break in period. The main jet is a #95 stock with 90 or 100 being the alternatives. Given modern gasoline and oils you may find that the 95 is too rich which will limit top speed somewhat. Some oils participate more in combustion than the old crap available back then which makes for less smoke but different jetting.

I'm running the needle shimmed halfway between the 2nd and middle notch, a #90 main jet and running 94 octane ethanol free gas and Maxima Super M at 32:1. This was Not the jetting I expected to run, but any richer and it burbles and complains.

I think you are expecting a lot from an almost 50 year old 100cc bike with very high street gearing. I remember when I got my Ace 100 B+ new back in 1972 that it would just make it to 55-60mph with the street gearing, and I only weighted 125 lbs back then.

It has 150psi compression, 95 mains, clip in 3rd setting.
I’ll look at baffle closer.
I just remember these being faster when I was a kid.

I would BBQ your pipe. Can’t hurt, that’s for sure! If for no other reason that it eliminates that possibility. Victor

viclioce wrote: ↑Mon Nov 02, 2020 6:41 am I would BBQ your pipe. Can’t hurt, that’s for sure! If for no other reason that it eliminates that possibility. Victor

He already has. The problem is that the baffle/arrestor has a chrome end and nobody wants to throw that in the fire. So you have at it with a torch and miss the part inside the spark swirl can.

I think there is a congenital defect with this baffle type and the later ones had a quite different, and accessible, swirl inducer thingy. Obviously they didn't breed from this one.

Ahhh. I missed that explanation! Thanks! Victor

I will put a torch to the baffle tomorrow,
Do you guys have any ideas what’s going on with the clutch?