The Hodaka Club Forum

Somewhere I saw a bolt-on repair for this unfortunate malady. It was a plate or bracket bolted to these bolts that supported a replacement stud. Looks to be possible to build but someone probably has one for sale. Any clues? Maxie

Max, search for;
Case repair?

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2875

Since it's apart, I have a guy that can weld it.

guys everywhere can wield it. The trials guy that rides hodaka days trials they say is good. I would repair the case itself.------------------Clarence

Welding would be best.

Of course welding is best but for someone without that option would fitting a stud work ? It might make fitting the case a tad more tricky.
OR a screw in bit with the required thread for the screw. That would take a bit of fabrication I guess

Cover screws have a tapered head on them, so putting a stud in would require a nut with a taper on it. You still need the aluminum post to space the cover parallel to the case, so it has to be fit correctly.

I hope you find a suitable fix for your problem. Meanwhile, I wonder how many Hodaka miles have been ridden with only 2 screws holding the side cover on.

Maxie, check out the above thread called "case repair?" I think this is the bracket you are thinking of.

Thanks Gang for all the input. Here's my final that seems safe, strong, secure and relatively easy. Mill, drill and tap the crankcase with a spacer. I'm starting to shy away from welding solutions on aluminum cases as these oil soaked cases can be difficult to weld or at least hard to find a welder that can. Sounds easy, just weld it, not. More than one way to skin a cat and the case looks repairable in most cases, so to speak. The only downside to this one is the bolt protrudes into the crankcase and oil comes out when you remove the case but you can just lay the bike on it's side. The upside is this might be tougher and chain resistant than the original. BTW the spacer is sawed of door hinge and is almost the right length. The bolt on bracket looks like a perfect solution if someone sold these things. Another excellent method is a threaded stud that, male on one end, female on the other is mounted to the drilled and threaded crankcase. Whatever it takes to get back in business! Maxie

That's a nice fix.

But your idea about a Male- Female adapter is brilliant.

I just wish I'd have been sharp enough to figure out that idea.

Outstanding work!

Clever Maxie. I have a herd of cases with that exact chain damage. Great way to get them back into circulation!

Al Harpster wrote:That's a nice fix.

But your idea about a Male- Female adapter is brilliant.

I just wish I'd have been sharp enough to figure out that idea.

Outstanding work!

I can't claim that one Al. An article has been published on this method. All these things work. Gotta keep 'em going! Someone should manufacture this simple piece for a quick fix.

If you would post a detailed sketch of what you think would do the job I'll try to make some.

Aluminum or steel.

Or some of each.

I'll give it a shot.

Al, here's a picture and drawing of a couple of approaches. Nice article in the Vol. 2 #25 Resonator also.

Thank you for the photos.

I like the cylindrical example.

It looks like you've already made one of steel.

If so, are those male threads turned or cut with a die?

Thanks again.

Looks like a cut-off bolt threaded into the cylinder which has been drilled and tapped.

I really like the simplicity of the processes to produce the replacement shift cover mount boss (re)shown below. With a bit of craftsmanship, it can be produced using an electric drill, hack saw, file and tap. So, naturally, I'll complicate the design for my own purposes. Since I have a small lathe which can easily handle production of an all-aluminum part - I think I will do that (someday). NOTE: I've been running two engines with that mounting boss broken off for over a decade now (the cases came to me that way) . . . so I'm not in a panic to build the repair part. NOTE: I am known for generally NOT breaking machinery, so what works for me . . . may not work for you. PS: Snick your shifts. (It's been a looooonnnnggg time since I've mentioned that. This seemed a good time and place. ) Discussion: Many of us have encountered broken mount bosses for the shifter cover - but (interestingly) probably many of us on this forum have NEVER actually broken off one of those mounting bosses ourselves. (Yay for generally good maintenance practices!!!!) However, it is clear that the boss can be broken off without extensive damage to the center case . . . which seems to me to be a desireable feature to retain. I kind of like the idea of that boss serving its purpose to position and retain the shift cover in a sort of "weak" way. By being a "weak" point, the boss serves as a "fuse" to protect both the shift cover and the center cases. Building an overly strong replacement mounting boss could lead to more extensive damage to shifter cover or center cases if a catastrophic chain "plug up"/derailment were to occur.

Ed

Great points and insight, Captain. I am assuming that if a "non-snicker" were to non-snick a shift cover held by 2/3 points, the other two mounting points would probably sack out pretty quickly resulting in enough play to fail the shifting mechanism. Interesting. I don't have a lathe, but aluminum bar stock like that shown is available in at least a half-dozen suppliers in town. I'm going to give it a crack and I like the idea of the "shear pin" effect of the aluminum stud. The main purpose of the mounting bolt positions is to keep the shift mechanism stably aligned anyway. Snick. Good.

I have half inch aluminum.

If I could get:

the length needed for the "barrel",

length of Male thread

and an agreement on M6x1

I'll turn a couple this week and mail them gratis to whomever can evaluate them.

(Means free)

I cheat. And I will try and supply a photo. -------------------- Clarence

I wanna see Clarence's "cheat"!

Al, it seems like all the dimensions you've requested kind of depend on the situation of the individual mount boss which has been broken off. ie, how "tall" is the remaining boss after flattening/"leveling" the end? That dimension has a significant effect on the selection of dimensions for the new part. I'll know more when I get around to making one of the parts (hopefully sometime this decade ). Of course one could select a "height" for the broken boss (probably should be about as close to broken off flush to the case as possible and go from there . . . but that will still require some time with a case and shifter cover on the bench to do some measuring ( . . . completion of the measuring task is also scheduled for sometime this decade )

The shifter case screws are indeed 6mm X 1.0 (1 thread per mm).

Ed

If this will help anyone it's free for the asking.

Male thread too long? You could cut it down.

Barrel too long? That too can be cut.

This one's Aluminum. Want it in steel? I'll make one for you.

If you have a case that you'd like fixed by this kind of method I will do all the work on your supplied case. Free for any registered Hodaka Club member.

Not a member? Send your broken case to me with a cancelled check to the Hodaka Club for the membership fee and I'll do it for free.

Sorry, but this applies to Ace type covers only. That's the only shift cover I've got to use to match the work to fit. Maybe that includes Iron Cylinder Super Rats and Wombats.

I'll throw in free shipping to the Lower 48 by USPS for Hodaka Club members.

If you've got a scrap case half sitting around, what's too lose?

If it's your only one, maybe you don't want to risk it.

Disclaimer: No Warranty expressed or implied. At the risk of being redundant: Hodaka Club Members Only.

Maybe this will help keep the Hodaka Story going. If so, great.

Wow Al! Nice. Its going to be raining ACE clutch covers at your place!

Al, nice solution - "trim-to-fit". Now that you've made one in aluminum, what does your "engineer/tuner eye and 'feel' " tell you about the part? How do you feel about the "fuse strength"? Is the threaded aluminum stud going to be about thr right strength?
Ed