The Hodaka Club Forum

This thread is started for the review & discussion of what will be a bike I’m calling my Wombat Combat! It’s going to be a Model 94 frame, with 18/21 inch wheels, a reed valve adapted Combat Wombat Motor, and a Wombat “flame thrower” pipe modified to fit the Model 95 exhaust port with spring tension fittings. It will also have a traditional Model 94 air box.

Looking forward to see if I can start it with the existing piston. It has a .030 over piston in it now. If it doesn’t generate enough compression, then I’ll have to go to a .040 over Super Combat piston!

Here’s the frame she’s going in, sitting in my back yard. She will get a set of Super Combat shocks, as close to a stock set of new handlebars as I can get for $32 and she will have a stock Wombat 94/94A seat which is going to be rebuilt & re-upholstered.

I’m hoping, with the added reed valve functionality, that it will be the fastest bike in my collection! Victor

Like the name Victor!

Like the name Victor! I guess that is what the one I have is, a 94 with reed and Combat stuff. Looks to be a fun project coming up! I'll be keeping an eye on your project! Here's a shot that shows how you can pivot the 94 air box to compensate for the lengthened intake. I do have the 95 cylinder for this one but this iron barrel works great!

Maxie! Looks like you used a rear exhaust mounting bracket & drilled a hole!!! Victor

viclioce wrote:Maxie! Looks like you used a rear exhaust mounting bracket & drilled a hole!!! Victor

Specifically a 94 Wombat flamethrower exhaust!

OK! A little update as I’ve finally been able to start using my left hand for a few things!

I received a Wombat air box from Bruce. There was a bit of a broken open dent in the face of it. I was able to hammer it flat & close it. I left a lower impression on the face so I could fill it with glazing compound. After the hammering, I cleaned the rust you see out of the inside of the cover with Naval Jelly. Then I sprayed the inside with Rustoleum Paint & Primer in one.

Then I sanded and primed the glazing fill, sanded again and primed again, sanded again and shot it with black paint! Pics below! When the paint cures, I’ll add the decals from Terry and shoot clear coat over it all!

Also cleaned and painted the back half of the air box as well! Victor

Now, for those following this thread, I have a reed valve ported Combat Wombat motor I’m going to put in this Wombat frame.

My question is, what is the appropriate sized carb to use with a reed valve 125? Surely not just the 28mm which comes stock on a piston port only Combat Wombat? Should I go with a 32mm? Something even larger?

This is something I’m not at all familiar with. Don’t want to go too small & don’t want to go too big either. Guidance is appreciated at this point. Thanks in advance! Victor

Hi Victor. I forgot - what pipe are you going to mount?

Planning on using a Wombat Flame Thrower pipe.

I see that the Super Combat uses a 32mm carb with a 35 pilot jet, 350 main jet, a 6F9 needle and a N-9 nozzle. Would this be a good set up for the Combat Wombat with reed valve configuration?

Victor

viclioce wrote:Now, for those following this thread, I have a reed valve ported Combat Wombat motor I’m going to put in this Wombat frame.

My question is, what is the appropriate sized carb to use with a reed valve 125? Surely not just the 28mm which comes stock on a piston port only Combat Wombat? Should I go with a 32mm? Something even larger?

This is something I’m not at all familiar with. Don’t want to go too small & don’t want to go too big either. Guidance is appreciated at this point. Thanks in advance! Victor

Good question Victor, actually one I'm contemplating too. I suppose it depends on what the bike will be used for. I'm cleaning up my bolt-on 28mm which should be sufficient for multi-purpose riding. I have a Mikuni adaptor that will allow me to use 30-34 spigot Mikunis which I think I'll try a 30mm should I go that way. Carbs are fussy on jetting the bigger you go but full tilt race engines benefit from more fuel and air. A toss up. I think I'll probably go with the 28mm stock Combat Wombat carb. All bolt-on from here if I'm not satisfied. Over 32mm is probably a waste of time as our intakes have reached the size limit too support anything bigger.

Victor, to be specific, you are talking about a M94 Wombat pipe and NOT an M95 Combat Wombat pipe for this bike? The Wombat pipe is a decent pipe, but the CW pipe is a much more high-performance expansion chamber. They are very rare unfortunately, but would allow the opportunity to tune toward the optimal benefit gained by converting to reed induction. I tried a Bassani and a Torque Engineering performance expansion chamber and the CW delivered better power over the entire rev range after a somewhat nonscientific trial (MJ changes only tuning for top end). Keep your eyes open and you might be able to find a rebuildable CW pipe or other aftermarket expansion chamber for short money. The flame thrower ends were sawed off both of mine and replaced with FMF Turbinecore II silencers for even better response, a bit of weight savings, and a quieter exhaust note.

Yes, it’s an M94 pipe that I have for now. The CW M95 pipes are hard to find as a separate item for sure. I think I’d have better luck finding an HT 2 or HT 3 before finding a CW M95 pipe! So for now? I’ll be going with the M94 Flame Thrower and probably a 32mm carb. Probably not an original stock Hodaka VM32, but a Mikuni none the less. I also have what was sold to me as a Road Toad Carb, but I believe it’s actually a M95 28mm. So we will see what happens! Victor

Thanks Victor. I went back and reread the thread from the git and there it was - in the opening remark. VM32 is probably pushing what that motor can handle but most likely within successful tune-ability. Good call. Looking forward to hearing how it works out.

Just need to add a protective clear coat now. I think it turned out decent. Victor

Here’s the air box all assembled! Got a few finger prints on it cause my hands were still a bit greasy!

It was a tough day today. I ended having to drill off all the heads to the case screws. Then pry the cases apart, then remove each screw stud with vice grips. But she’s open and all apart!

Then I started cleaning the shifter cover and as the dirt came off, I found this enormous crack! Hello Bruce!!!

Hey Victor, air box lookin' good, ouch on the broken case! No loads on the front of that case, how's the rest of it? Weld or even patch and paint maybe? Consoling, ha ha. Maxie

Bruce is checking in the morning to let me know if he has a good case. I’m waiting to see because I THOUGHT I was ready to take all the case components to be vapor blasted. Now I have to wait. I don’t really want to vapor blast a case with a big weld line on it. Hopefully, Bruce will come through with a Wombat or CW shifter case.

I don’t know if you’ve seen those ads on FB for those low temp aluminum welding rods? You heat up the area to be welded with just a propane torch and the welding rod melts similar to solder but hardens. They’ve even shown it filling in fairly large holes! I ordered a set of 10. I can give it a go when they arrive. But this will likely just be a “spare case.” Victor

It was a true Biotch getting the tranny open today. I tried PB Blaster over night; I tried heat; I tried drilling and broken bolt removers.

I finally used 2 drill bits. One the size of the screw shafts and one nearly the size of the screw heads! Was able to drill the heads off, pry the cases apart, and remove the remainder of the screw studs one at a time with vice grips. Sorry, didn’t take any pics because my hands were to greasy!

Quite a job for a guy who just started post-surgical hand physical therapy! But I didn’t let it beat me! Victor

So, Bruce is currently out of 125 shifter covers. Is there anyone in Hodaka Land who has a shifter cover in reasonable condition with which they can part? This shifter cover has seen its better days. I may be able to repair it, but it hardly seems worth vapor blasting a welded cover? So let me know! Victor