The Hodaka Club Forum

Need some trouble shooting tips. Here’s what I’ve done so far.

1. Replaced points
2. Replaced condenser
3. Gapped points @ .013
Changed out spark plug coil in case the one I did the “Kelly” style rebuild on was no good.
4. Even tried placing my meter in the blue & black wires with it set at 20 vdc to see if it flickered when I kicked the bike over. Nothing.

So I’m open to suggestions. Please fire away. This is the first time I’ve been this unsuccessful obtaining spark across the plug gap. Not even a dull flicker.

The ignition switch appears to be functioning properly, at least it gives me a lit tail light in both positions when the emergency switch is in the DC position. Victor

I would start by totally taking the main switch out of the equation completely. Disconnect the contact block and test for spark.

If you replaced the points did you clean them? When you replaced the condensor are you sure there are no grounded wires? Unplug all wires you don't need, a single wire from points to coil should get you spark.

Jumping back some here. Has the frame been painted or powdercoated? If so you have to get bare metal to ground the motor and frame.

And also bare metal to ground the coil to the frame.

Not to hi jack here, but a comment. The bike I’m rebuilding has a wire bolted to the right side behind the battery box. It’s not attached anywhere else. I assume this is a ground. Not sure if it’s stock or not. Don’t know if you have said wire.

You could run a jumper wire from the motor to the coil mount to help the ground.

Matt. I know the ignition switch is good. It came to me from Alan, along with all the other removable electrical parts from his Ace 100. Everything was working for him at the time he removed them. I know the harness is good, the ignition switch, the lights, I’ve already heard the horn work.

I’m surprised to see someone say make sure there is no paint on the frame where the coil mounts to it for a good ground. It has a blue ground wire. Isn’t that what the blue wire connecting to the coil is for, a ground? I will go ahead and scrape away the pain there anyway.

The condenser is one which was recommended to me in my coil discussion a while back, since Terry is out. I bought 3 on eBay and it has the same rating. It has a wire connection instead of a “solder all the wires to the top. So all my wires were trimmed, tinned, and then soldered together & wrapped with electrical tape, & I’m sure there’s enough solder there to have everything joined without any shorts.

I will look at all the places where the motor makes contact with the frame & clean away any paint which might me suspect for ground contact.

One big question. Is there a way to test the spark plug coil with a multi-meter? That way I can confirm my ”Socalhodaka style” coil rebuild is working correctly? Kelly’s instructions were easy, simple & direct, so I think I was successful, but if there’s a way to meter them that would give me peace of mind on my skills rebuilding them.

Thrown, I've never heard of “cleaning the points.” They are brand new from Terry in a sealed plastic bag? Are they coated with something? Will a shot of carb cleaner be sufficient to clean them?

Thanks for all the ideas. I’ll report back today with whether I had any success or not. Victor

Wildzebra, is it the red wire coming from the Rectifier behind the battery box? Or is it some other color wire, attached to the battery box itself? Victor

It’s a black wire bolted to the right side of the battery box. Wondering if someone added it or if it’s stock. I have nos condensers that work for the 100 if you need one. I can confirm it running in my 69. After you rule out ground.

I'm sure your switch is fine, Victor. Removal of it from the circuit is just one of those "back to the drawing board" easy moves to confirm that the switch/wiring is not an issue.

Easy way to check your "spark plug coil" would be to do a temporary hook up to one of your running Hodaka's and see if you get spark with it on that bike. If it works, it is fine, if not, that is one of your problems.

To clean the points, use electric contact cleaner. Then take a business card or something similar, using a clean area for every pass, put it between the points and pull it thru. Keep doing it till it comes out clean. There are ways to check the coil with a multimeter.

On most bikes the frame acts as a grounding conduit. So clean and paint free where the motor and coil mount are needed.

Please tell me the ways to check the coil with a multi-meter!!!! Thanks! Victor

Victor, You have attempted to resolve your issue by shot gunning spare parts. That is perfectly fine if you have the parts, time and patience. There are methods to test each component of the entire ignition system. The Ace 100 Repair Manual has a great section for this. I would recommend getting an analog Volt/ohm meter and getting familiar with each component of your circuit including all wiring. There is also a post on here describing the use of a dry cell battery to test for spark. I will locate it and add the link.

The really good news is that your issue is persistent. Finding the cause of intermittent spark loss is a whole nother level of frustration.
Dale

Here is the link:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3655&p=31351

Thanks Dale! I remember reading that and will give it a try! Victor

If you have a resister cap make sure it's ok also.

Dale. I have my 3v tester made. One question. What is the ground for the stator? Can I just ground to the metal stator frame, or must I use something else? Thx. Victor

viclioce wrote:Dale. I have my 3v tester made. One question. What is the ground for the stator? Can I just ground to the metal stator frame, or must I use something else? Thx. Victor

The stator frame is fine.

If you're checking stator off bike, ground to the backing plate. If it's on the motor anywhere on the cases will work, my leads have clips on them so I just clip into a screw hole.

Get it figured out?

Took a frustration break. It’s been raining....a lot. Victor

The Primary Coil (STATOR) wire that gets soldered to the Condenser has a Lacquer or plastic coating of sorts on it. If it`s not removed, there will be no connection. I tin that wire before I solder it to the Condenser to be sure that coating is gone. I had that problem more than once. Probably something simple. Joe.