The Hodaka Club Forum

Would a kindly chat group member post some close up photos of the "pin" and the "business end" of that black ball handled device?
I'm gonna need to do some of these little C shaped clips.
I've got a mini lathe and some stock. I can cobble one together.
Dimensions of the "pin", inches or metric, would be super if available.

Some idea of the business end of the Outside Tube dimensions would be a great help.

Al,
Are you needing the size for the older models or the newer models?

It will be after Hodaka Days before I will be able get this information. Hopefully someone else will get on this sooner.
Dale

Oops. I forgot about the later models. I'm an Ace guy. Not the newer versions.

No rush, I'm on a long term project. This tool is a puzzle to me. I'll need one and I'd like to build one.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

Al. Post to Danny Cooke! He has made them in the past and can probably tell you the dimensions from memory! Victor

The handle part is a piece of cake, it's the tapered pin that's the tricky part.

The working end of the pin is 5mm the same as the end of the control shaft. The over all length of my tool is 1/2 inch shorter than the original tool. Preference on my part. This is one of the original batch of tools I made for Strictly Hodaka. No extra ones available at this time.
Danny Cooke

Thanks Dan.

Could you provide approximate diameter and depth of the "counter bore' in the end of the Tube part?

I'm gonna assume the recess in the end of the pin is something like 90 degrees included.

And just one more thing...... Approximate diameter of the starting taper.

Your post is a big help.

Thank you.

Al,

1. The counter bore depth is slightly greater than the thickness of the retaining clip. You want the tube end of the tool pushing against the clip retainer.
2. The counter bore diameter is slightly larger than the clip when it is at maximum expansion on the pin part of the tool.
3. The recess in the pin is to allow the pin to mate up with the control shaft with out any gap the clip could get caught in. 60 or 90 degree should work. I have hand ground them in with a small round stone and dremel tool. Experiment a bit. Knowing the object of what you are trying to accomplish is important in determining what works with the equipment you have.
4. Small diameter of pin is 3mm.

Danny

Thanks Danny..... That's all I needed.

The challenge starts now.

Got any tools made?

I sold my 7x16 mini lathe weeks ago for $100.

I'd intended to use that to build the tool.

That machine was the ultimate disappointment. Spent hours trying to make that thing produce. I got to the point I just wanted it out of my shop.

Just got a new 10x22 lathe late last week. I got that boat anchor into my basement just 2 days ago. Without personal injury.

I have good intentions, but I'm way behind schedule.

Way behind.

I've made a snap ring install tool & tested it ONCE.

I'd appreciate suggestions on how to get the snap rings off. Suggestions that might allow me to keep the ring. So it doesn't go into orbit.

I only have a couple of these snap rings. Getting one on one time isn't much of a test.

Or if someone knows where I can buy a box of the things I'll try that.

Any help appreciated. Thanks.

With all due respect Al, I would reconsider the advisability of reusing the control shaft snap ring. They only return to the correct dimension once after being expanded over the install tool taper pin. Its the only think holding the spring retainer cup in place and there will be considerable pushing/swearing if that craps out. Not the place to skimp.

I’m betting you could buy them bulk at places like Ace hardware. But even if you had 5 bikes I figure you wouldn’t need more than 10 at a time. Victor

I always reused them?? If they fit under the control shaft ring stopper, you are good to go. ------------Clarence

Clarence, you beat me to it. The snap ring is the proper wire gauge, formed to the proper shape . . . and if fully "captured" in its groove on the control shaft and within the "cup" of the snap ring retainer . . . you are good to go whether it is a new snap ring or a re-used snap ring.
Ed

Thanks all for your help.

I better clarify my previous post.

I'd like to fully test my home made snap ring tool.

I'd like to do that by using it over and over.

That means I need to:

Figure out how to get the ring back off without loosing it ( lots a luck) a bunch of times.

Or

Get a handful of rings to practice with.

If someone on this forum knows where I can buy a "box" of these please let me know.

This snap ring has been both a challenge and a nemisis for me.

I'm intent on beating it if I can.

Hey, I'm on medicare now. I got time on my hands.

Al why don,t you magnetize the area of the tool that sits on the ring, that way if the ring did not seat and pops it captured by the tool. Just a thought. Bruce Young

hmmmm, might work -- but in the world of Murphy's Law doesn't spring force crush magnetic force?
Ed

I place my flywheel in front of it, the inside of the flywheel magnets facing the snap ring, it catches the ring if I screw up. -------------- Clarence

I took that suggestion regarding the reuse of snap rings directly from the Official Workshop Manual - no explanation offered. The only reasons I could figure out were expansion/memory or weakening. I should have presented that as an opinion. Sorry about that.

Grease. A dab of grease keeps that tiny snap ring from becoming a UFO. Works for Piston snap rings too. Joe.

Wow, I am glad to hear that the magnet suggestion was something that a legend ol time builder Clarence has already thought of, I am not surprised he had the idea many decades ago, I might also think a magnet would be handy for the front fork triple clamp ball bearings, plight they also have a mind of their own when it comes to working with them. Thanks Ed and Clarence for all the help you give to this site. Bruce

Can someone tell me the difference in the early and late model tool?

I don't have one to measure, but the later model snap rings were smaller diameter than the early ones. Therefore, the tool has a smaller diameter hole in it and the tapered rod has a smaller diameter.