The Hodaka Club Forum

First time filling it after a rebuild and I started off with 500cc and checked with dip stick to see where it was at. It is about 1/2 inch above the full mark. The workshop manual says 590cc so according to that it should be a bit low,not over full.
So my question, is 590cc the correct amount ? I,m thinking that maybe I have the wrong dip stick ? If there are different lengths how long should it be for the Ace 100? Would it be safe to put in 590cc and run it through the break in heat cycles ?

Yes there are different dip sticks for the two different clutch covers.

My ace 100 manuals lists 581cc. ----------- Clarence

I've never found the transmission dipstick to be helpful. Other than indicate there is oil contacting it I've never found it useful.

1-1/4 pints is the capacity shown in the owners manual I have.

The shop manual states 1-1/4 pints and indicates that's 581 cc.

I put in 20 ounces as best I can estimate from the quart container see-through measure.

The Hodaka " How to modify your Ace to a road racer" bulletin specifies 16 ounces, or one pint. That modified engine was reported capable of hitting 20,000 rpm if not cautious.

I think 20 ounces, or 1-1/4 pints, plus or minus an ounce or two will do the job.

I'd say put in the 20 ounces. Unless the transmission leaks don't worry too much about the dipstick.

Okay,I will stick with the 1-1/4 pints like my manual also states and not worry about the stick reading. I appreciate the answers/help to what was probably a somewhat silly question. The little Ace trials project is finally just about finished and I just don,t want to screw it up now lol.
I should get the seat back this week and I need proper trials handle bars and probably better shocks,but it,s finally a rider !

Your picture suggests that you have the wrong dipstick for that clutch cover..

What in the picture suggests a wrong dipstick? ---------- Clarence

Clarence; weren't the Ace 90 dipsticks about 15 mm longer than later models with the hole toward the back. But then, I suspect the 90 dipsticks all had metal tops. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I got looking at pictures after your post MTrat and I think you,re correct because the Ace dipsticks have a white plastic knob and the Wombat and later models are black. So I dug out my Wombat motor that is apart in boxes and it has a shorter,white plastic stick lol. I know what you are probably thinking “ that goof got the dipsticks switched around”,but the funny part is I know thatI did not and that they both had the wrong ones. I bought them from separate parties and the Wombat has been apart and in storage about a year before bringing the Ace home and was still painted silver from the p.o.,s case paint job. Anyway,I thought that was pretty funny and what are the odds? Lol. I did not know the Ace90 was different so maybe I still don,t have the right one. Here is a pic of both with the one that came in the Ace on top.

Also,I got my transmission oil amount on page 70 in the workshop manual where it says 1-1/4 pints is 590cc. Never thought to look in the back (duh) under “capacities” where it says 1-1/4 pints is 581cc.

The first ace 90 oil gauge (dipsticks) were grey in color and the really early models had the dip stick up on top. Then white with a part number of 901510. Then came the ace 100 with dipstick #921510 it was used on models 92A, 92B, 92B+, 93, 93A and the 93B. The black ace100's made for Nigeria had black dip sticks. Just trivia. ------------Clarence

Remember guys, unless you are filling a completely dry motor, it won’t take the full amount, ‘cause some is retained and you will overfill it
Bob

My motor was dry,but that is good to know. Thanks Bob.

Bob, other than removing the clutch cover and laying the bike over, is there any way to optimize the oil removal process? Thanks Bob.

Um, remove the drain plug under the motor?

Fuuuunnnnnny Bob. No, I mean beyond the usual steps. In other words after drain plug removal, clutch cover removal, and laying the bike over, is there any steps used to facilitate removal of ALL the oil. I'm fixing to switch brands and would like to remove as much of the old brand oil as possible.

The owners manual suggests leaning the bike over With Out removing the clutch cover.

But of you're changing lubricant types & want to be sure any changes in performance are related to the new lube?

I'd probably go the distance & take the cover off.

That's the plan, Al. Thanks!

Matt. If your changing oil, you could fill after the drain with 8-10 ounces of the new oil, start it briefly, drain and fill correctly. This would mix the 2 oils and when you drain it there will be less of the old oil.

I have a VL1500 Suzuki which has differing levels of oil galleys. It’s recommended to tip the bike right, then left, then right again, holding each position for about 5 seconds. This shifts the oil in the galleys so it works it’s way down to the drain.

This bike holds 4.5 quarts of oil from a dry tranny but on a change with good galley rocking, I’m lucky to put 4 quarts & 8 ounces. Most of the time I get 4 quarts in and the level hits between the low & high fill lines.

So getting all the oil out usually requires disassembly with a wipe down inside! Victor

That's a good idea, Victor. Kind of a flushing operation. My brother suggested using kerosene in the same fashion. Not sure I can do that. I've heard of using kerosene when taking a bike out of service for long term storage. I would think running the motor full of kerosene would be a 2-stroke rendition of the Brady Bunch episode where Jan puts too much soap in the washing machine. Sudsy hell on 2 wheels. I like your idea better.