The Hodaka Club Forum

I started to assemble my first ever Hodaka engine(Ace100) today. I used the countershaft from my Wombat because it was in better shape,but noticed it was a really snug fit into the right side case bushing. Looking at part numbers they are different,but the case bushing numbers are the same.
So before I take things back apart,should it be a really snug fit and are the countershafts interchangeable ? I have the shifter balls greased and in the sockets and the kickstart assembly in so not a huge deal to take apart. The bad part,if I have to,will be that freakin control shaft snap ring. I still can,t believe that after many attempts that I finally got it on.

I'm pretty sure the countershaft and its bushing are indeed the same for those two engines. So if the shaft you have is tight in bushing, step ONE is to confirm there are no burrs/gouges/galling or other deformities in/on either part. If both parts are in good shape, then a bit of work to enlarge the bushing ID a teensie amount is the next step. The countershaft must be any easy slip-fit into the bushing.

It was not what I would call an easy slip fit and it does not spin too easy. I did not think it was right and it,s good to have you confirm it. I did not go any further with the rebuild yet so it will come out for burr inspection and a polish.

Thank you !!

Forgot to add that I did finally think to check the parts compatibility list on the HodakapartsIdaho site and you are correct,they are the same for those to engines.

Mac, there is a specific tool designed for one thing and one thing only - and that's placing the control shaft snap ring. They are as rare as hen's teeth these days. Some years ago, a limited run of the snap ring replacement special tool was offered and sold out almost immediately. I hope another one comes along. I'd really like a spare so I can leave one in my shop and one in my race rig.

I looked up pics of that tool and yes,that is a must have tool. The tapered pin to guide the C clip is key to holding it in place. I will buy one if they ever come up for sale again.
I made a jig similar to the one in the pic but I did not get the air tool fitting perfected to hold the C clip properly in place. I ended up using ground down needle nose and my thumb nail and finally held my tongue just right ! The jig at least kept the springs compressed so I could use both hands. I think the Hodaka tool would be essential,for me, to do it without splitting the cases.

Forgot to edit and add the pic of the jig.

That was my nessity is the mother of invention routine it did work for me .....Albert

Before I scored the tool, I used a cheap, small drift that I hack sawed the tapered end off of. To this day, there are 6,829 c-clips laying about my shop. Yes, it is a must-have tool for control rod work.

Albert,your jig is a really good idea,thank you for sharing it. I think I just did not spend enough time getting the end of the air tool fitting countersunk enough to hold the c clip in place.

Matt, I like the idea of the sawed off drift. I think I can maybe use that along with Alberts idea of the air tool fitting to make a tool.

Thank you !

Mac, next time I get down to my shop, I will measure the real tool so you don't have to do as much fiddling around to get the correct finished diameter of the drift. That way the c-ring doesn't get unnecessarily expanded/sprung as you push the ring off the drift and onto the control shaft. You'll want a snug fit between the c-ring and the groove on the control shaft unless grinding frustration and heartbreak is your thing.

Matt,that would be awesome,thank you. I do try to avoid frustration and heartbreak at all cost. I pulled the control shaft back out today to check the too tight of fit into the bushing. No burrs so I did as the Captain said and did a teensie amount of polishing until I got a nice slip fit. One thing I caught while looking things over is the snap ring was not totally seated into the recess of the spring stopper. I spun it on the shaft and it popped into place now safely encompassing the snap ring. I,m guessing that could have caused a bit of heartbreak.

Quite possibly. Happily, there is a good and nonpainful (aka no pushing/swearing/sweating involved) object lesson therein. Inspect the c-ring after installation so as to make absolutely sure it is properly seated in the groove on the control shaft and that the spring stopper is properly indexed. It is a remarkably smooth, innovative, and durable transmission when properly assembled. I will get down to the shop tomorrow and collect some measurements for you.

OK, here's the dope on the c-ring tool. The business end of the drift cut off to use in c-ring installation is 50mm in length, and the taper goes from 3 mm to 5 mm over 36 mm with the final 14 mm steady at 5 mm for the remaining length of the tool. The thick end was drilled with a 4 mm bit on center so that the tool remains properly aligned on the end of the control shaft. You'll also need a pusher which in the case of my home grown version was a piece of left-over round aluminum bar stock drilled straight down the middle ala rifle barrel at just over 5 mm and similarly countersunk. This part used to push the c-ring off the taper and on to the control shaft. I do hope you find this info useful.

Are those the dimensions for the "early" model control shaft snap ring tool? Or for the "late" model tool?

NOTE: I don't have either of the tools with me to examine, but the depth of the counter-sink in the end of the "driver" part of the tool must be pretty shallow/small I think.

Ed

Thanks Matt ! That is a nicely detailed walk through of what’s needed. Much appreciated !

Ed,I,m guessing that it is for an early model because my control shaft end diameter is 5mm,but I could be wrong on that being the determining factor.

Early model, Captain. The countersunk feature of the pin is about 2 mm deep - just enough to keep the pin centered on the control shaft while you slide the c-ring off the pin and onto the control shaft. Also, I got my caliper out and measured the thick end of the actual pin accurately. It is 5.08 mm - just slightly larger than the control shaft. That makes sense.