The Hodaka Club Forum

Hey guys, been awhile since I posted anything on here. Im still dealing with a clutch that sticks or doesn't disengage properly when I pull the clutch lever. I've followed the resonator article for dealing with clutches and everything seems to move freely when I assemble it. I've noticed when I put the clutch cage cover on that it fits really snug, it almost snaps in, it doesnt just freely turn around the basket like the clutch cover does? Is it supposed to fit that snug that you can't even turn it or could something be warped basket or cover. Thanks for any help, really want to get this thing straightened out on the clutch end before fall.

Just double checking - You've filed the "washboarding" off the internal teeth of the cage? And you've de-burred the teeth on the steel plates? If you are using fully threaded screws - you have provided for clearance to assure the steel plates can't catch on the screw threads?

Finally, when the clutch is assembled and the screws tightened there is nothing which should be moveable/rotatable by hand. The inner cover (where the seven screw heads seat) and the outer cover (where the screw threads are) are NOT supposed to rotate relative to the cage at any time after the clutch is assembled.
Ed

Hi Ed, just to clarify, when I was talking about the clutch plate (side that the screws enter) not moving freely, I was talking about when it he basket was empty and I try to attach it to the basket. It fits real snug and you have to almost snap it around the basket. Once it's on I can't move it at all compared to the other side that spins around nicely when I set it on the basket.

At any rate, the weird thing is that when I put it all together and test it before I put the oil in it works fine. I can disengage the clutch when the bike is in gear and it rolls freely. When I re-engage the clutch it grabs. But as soon as I put all the lube in, fire it up, it goes back to not disengaging entirely. It's still pulls and will kill if I keep the brake to a stop with clutch pulled in. So I don't know. I've done this 10 times now and I get the same result.

Seems odd that it works fine dry, but drags when lubed. Still has to be mechanical. Thrust washers are in good shape and installed properly? The 2 clutch basket halves should not be a snap fit, you may have to ease areas to get a close fit, but not too tight.

We still don't know the answers to any of my previous questions - and I think those details are important. "When I re-engage the clutch it grabs." <--- That statement suggests that the steel plates may still have burrs . . . or that the clutch cage internal teeth are "washboarded".

Fit of the two "covers" on to the clutch cage does not seem to me to be a contributing factor to the issue reported here - so long as both covers fit on well centered and without deforming the shape of the cage. It might be good to check for some sort of burr or other damage to the tighter fitting "cover".

NOTE: Introduction of oil into the system causing "drag" is common since the oil is a very viscous medium compared to air (better lube properties, but more viscous) . . . the real question is how much "drag". What oil are you using?

While there shouldn't be any significant change (problem causing) between dry and wet - it is possible that you have a warped/bent steel plate. It would be good to check for that.
Ed

Ed, I've gone through and removed an washboarding I could see and I've also polished up the plates too. So I'll rule out the covers as an issue. The only other thing I can think of right now is that when I test the clutch out dry I don't usually torque down the clutch nut, in fact I don't even think I put it on. So that is the only difference I can think of.

Check the clutch pinion bushing. Sometimes the bushing gets distorted (squashed or end mushroomed), especially if the clutch nut is overtightened, and then it will not allow the clutch to spin freely on the bushing.

Brian, I'll check it but as far as I'm aware the bushing almost sits flush with the inside of the rotor gear so I'm not seeing how cause what the drag. The the rotor gear and pinion gear seem to spin around it fine. I'll say this though, the first time I took off the clutch but I stripped it out the nut because I wasn't aware it was reversed. Uggghhh!

Ed here is a previous post from like 12 years ago. I think this is what I have going on.

Ah-ha (as in a Eureka moment)! I think you may have found it!
If the inner thrust washer has a wear ring which lets the inner end of the clutch bushing sit significantly more "inboard" than it should (and the end of the clutch bushing is worn down a bit too), you'll end up with the same effect I had with the short clutch bushing.
With a significantly worn clutch bushing and inner thrust washer, when you tighten up the clutch nut it presses the Clutch Hub (944012) against the pinion gear rather than against the end of the clutch bushing (as intended). With this "fault", the clutch hub and and the pinion gear are "locked together" all the time.
So I'd recommend inspecting whether or not the outer end of the clutch bushing extends "proud" of the pinion gear/clutch rotor gear/clutch thrust washer(outer) - if not, the inner thrust washer and clutch bushing need to be replaced.
Ed

Brian thanks you were definitely pointing me in the right direction. No wonder why when I put the damn thing together without clutch nut it would work. I got the parts on order. I'm willing to bet new bushing and washers fix it.

If you stripped the clutch nut there is a very good chance you damaged the pinion bushing. I think it's a safe bet that the new bushing will fix it.

Brian

So I got my parts very quickly, thanks to Terry and Bev! Clutch is working great and has been fun just riding around the yard.