The Hodaka Club Forum

Well, we finally get to the point where we can take the Red Toad in for title and registration. We pulled the gas tank one last time to make an adjustment in the Horn to make it stronger sounding.

As we were putting the tank back on, wet red paint got on my hand! Pulled the tank off again and turns out there was a previous weld which had rust around it and started leaking, breaking up the paint!

I cleaned & sanded the area, and found 4 or 5 pin hole leaks. I decided to try filling it with solder rather than damaging it trying to weld it more and making it worse.

The solder appears to have closed it up and I filed it down and filled the irregularities with glazing putty. It’s been sanded & primered and I will get another can of Chevy Red today and blend the color back in and re-clear it after the red dries. Thankfully, paint wise, it’s the bottom and rear of the tank, so it won’t be obvious that a repair & repaint was done. Victor

Caswell epoxy tank sealant Victor. I've used it on a half-dozen tanks. Easy, works well, and is durable. My concern is that if there are multiple rust-throughs now, there may be more later. Its one of those "ounce of prevention" situations.

Matt. The tank had a previous treatment done. The soldering appears to have worked well. If it happens again, then I will tell him as the owner he can look for another tank and we can paint that tank for the bike. It’s already cost me a small fortune! I’m his Uncle, not his sugar daddy! LOL! Victor

Dig it!

Hey Matt! I have to make a tab for the rear brake rod so the brake switch spring can connect to it. It’s missing off the rod for the Green Toad! Can you measure the distance between the two tabs & let me know? Like the distance between the spring holes, eye to eye? Thanks! Victor

Sure can. Give me a minute.

5 and 3/4 inches from front spring hole to rear spring hole. The distance from center of brake lever mounting hole for the brake actuating rod to the spring hole is 6 inches. The distance from the rod to the spring hole is 1 inch for the front tab. The tab for the switch spring is nearly horizontal angled slightly downward. You might consider a quick mock-up of the tab to the rod to insure the tab aligns properly with the brake switch for a straight pull of the switch pin without angulation. Let me know if additional information is needed

Thanks Matt! That covers it very well. Now to pull the brake rod and add another spring tab! Victor

You're very welcome, Victor. Always down for helping out a brother Toad pilot!!

Well I got another RT tank from Nate who built the raffle bike a couple of years ago!

It was in older primer when I got it, so I had to sand it, put a tiny bit of glazing compound in a small “tap dent” in the top surface of the tank.

Then I primered it again & lightly sanded. Put the Victory Red on it, two coats and then clear coat, 3 coats.

She’s ready for buffing & decals now. And I have to pull the 50th badges off the previous tank and attach them to this one! Victor

Wow Victor! That's a pro finish. Hard to believe you got that with a rattle can. Nice!!

Matt. That was BEFORE buffing! I buffed it today! Decals tomorrow! Victor

Niiiiice!!!! How long do you wait between coats? I follow the instructions but for some reason when I apply the second coat, the whole finish becomes this wrinkled up mess. Lots of language issues and another anger management class follow. What the hell causes that and how can it be avoided? Thanks Victor. Great job!

One coat is a fully covered coat, no ghosting or primer still showing through. Start your spray as you pass BEFORE the paint hits the surface and follow through past the other side before stopping the spray. You’ll get a lot more orange peel texture if you start the spray while over the surface. Usually takes me 2 to 3 passes to get full coverage in any area.

When you do the second coat it should be completely dry. If it is just skinned over the additives in the fresh paint can break the skin on the first coat and then you’re putting wet paint on wet paint. So go slowly, start and finish your spraying before & after the surface and go slowly.

When I clear coat, I usually let the color coat dry over night. The only time I don’t is if it’s Summer & warm & I do a color coat early in the day. Then I’m comfortable with clearing in the evening.

To get that wet look finish, you’ve got to buff it out with a good buffing compound. I use the 3M because it’s always been good. And if your clear coat appears to have an orange peel surface, wet sand it with 1000 grit wet sand paper until it looks like flat paint and then buff it out and watch it shine! Victor

Great! Thank you, Victor. I'm about to finish a Road (not "red" ) Toad tank. I'll give it a try. Looks GREAT!

I never wet paint over a dry paint unless it is fully cured as it will lift, but what kind of paint? Also I do not sand the finished paint, buff or clearcoat it.---------------- Clarence

It’s not necessary to wet sand & buff paint. Only if you want it to have that factory Wet Look finish as seen on custom paints. Since I know how to do it, I always do it so that I’m happy with it looking like a custom paint job!

Even my Green Toad was painted by a prof. painter (a cousin to the grandsons) and it was a one stage color paint. But it was wet sanded and buffed to give it that professional finish! Victor

Very nice, Victor.