Hi! What is the size of the countershaft sprocket Nut? Also is there a torque setting for it?
The one on the Red Toad keeps loosening up, so it starts leaking again from the seal. A very small amount, like 2-3 tablespoons over 3-4 weeks. But the sprocket Nut keeps loosening up.
I have a 22mm socket which is too small, & a 27mm which is too big. So I’m guessing it’s a 25mm, but looking for confirmation before I go buy one.
And a torque setting for it would be great to know as well! Thanks! Victor
Yes, but it seams I haven’t been able to get it bent upward enough to get it to lock in place, I guess. I’ve been using just a hammer and flat screw driver. But I pulled the cover this afternoon and the Nut was about 1/2 a turn from falling off.
So can you tell me if the Nut is a 25mm or some other size, so I can get it on tighter and try again to bend the lock washer up properly? Thanks! Victor
I've never seen a torque spec for the countershaft sprocket nut. That may be because of the following factors:
1. Due to the splines, the threads are interrupted - leaving only 50% thread contact between the nut and the countershaft threads.
2. The countershaft nut is very thin when compared to a normal 20mm X 1.5 nut - so it has limited capability to "accept" torque and produce tension loads to keep things "tight".
3. Due to the above two factors, a thin lock washer is provided which has internal "teeth" to engage the countershaft splines and which requires "bending up" the edge of the washer to engage two flats of the countershaft nut in order to "lock" the nut in place.
The net result of the above items is that while the countershaft nut must be tightened, it does not retain "tightness" due to being torqued to a particular specification. It retains satisfactory tightness from the action of the bendable lock washer.
I've always found the countershaft nut tightening operation to be somewhat of an exercise in futility. It is hard to "hold" the countershaft immobile AND it is hard to get a good "grip" on the nut . . . which is actually sort of OK, 'cuz if you could do both, it would be pretty easy to over-torque the nut and strip the threads. I think it was all designed so the nut would strip first - but I haven't tested that concept.
Enneywayeee, I recommend getting the nut nice and snug without much concern for getting the nut truly tight - then doing some detailed craftsmanship on bending up the tabs on the lock washer to immobilize the nut. In my experience, the countershaft nut WILL develop a teensy bit of looseness after riding simply because the freeplay of the lock washer internal teeth in the splines and the final fit of the bent tabs will NOT eliminate all movement of the nut. Yet, the system works . . . and generally doesn't leak.
Finally, I have a cheap (repeat, cheeeep) 3/8" wide wood chisel on my work bench which I use for various Hodaka repair tasks. The chisel is considered "expendable" so I feel free to use it around metal parts - and the edge can be touched up for this type of use in seconds at the bench grinder. The chisel is an excellent tool for the initial "lifting" of the edge of the countershaft nut lock washer.
My intuitive guess on the countershaft sprocket nut tightness would be a "good grunt" on a 10" ratchet handle. That might work out to be 10-12 ft-lbs or 120-150 in-lbs. I've not tested this feel to failure, so be careful.
On the bendable lockplates, start the bend using a 1/2" wood chisel and set the tab against the nut with a 3/16"-1/4" pin punch.
Pretty much what the Capt'n Sez.
OK guys! I have a cheap 1/2” chisel I can use. I’m off today to go get a 26mm socket. And yes Albert, I’ll take the Nut with me! Thanks for all the tips, Everyone! Victor
Victor
