The Hodaka Club Forum

Hey everyone,
New member here and a new Hodaka owner - Model 94 Wombat (09/72 birthdate). Not new to motorcycle mechanics nor to older machines but I am brand new to 2 strokes and Hodakas. I'm looking forward to it! I've been spending some time reading the boards, getting better with searching, etc. but thought I'd post a thread for general feedback. I'm sorry if this has all be covered a hundred times over.

First off, I plan to use the bike for city/street and light enduro/cc. My goal is usability and dependability, not originality or restoration. Performance enhancement/tuning is of interest, but I realize that comes at a cost to reliability and would take measured steps in that direction.

1) The model 94 carb - was it really not built for 2 strokes and just never quite worked right? The machine I've picked up runs, with fresh gas and plug, but terribly. I attributed it to a gummed up carb, possibly air intake issues as well. It sat for a quite a few years. I was planning on pulling and cleaning it but I've done that a ton of times before on other bikes and not always with great success. If I get into rebuilding - new seals, gaskets, jets, etc....well I hate to go after it if in the end I'm still going to end up with a carb with sub-par performance for the bike. Do many people move to an alternate mikuni, or even move up to a 28? I'm not opposed to buying a new carb.

2) Gearing - I don't know the history on the bike unfortunately, but it doesn't look too molested and feel pretty comfortable it's running stock gearing. It feels pretty close range for the riding I'll likely be doing, a mix of street and enduro/cc. I was considering going up on the countershaft sprocket or smaller on the rear sprocket to make it a bit more usable for everyday riding. Wondering if this is also a common mod and how the motor takes to it. (I don't have any experience riding a sorted example to get a sense of it).

or....

3) Is it possible to run a 5-speed combat wombat transmission in the 94 model wombat?

4) I'm sourcing workshop manual - any reason, other than originality, to not use the reprints from say stricklyhodaka?

5) Any other standard mods that people do to make these machines more livable in today's day and age?

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Best,
Simon

I'll tackle a couple of these. First any manual will do, reprint or original. The info is what you're after. As for modern upgrades, tires would be my first to do. As well as the brakes. And Lube every point that needs it. Depending on how long it's been setting, the rough running may be do to dry seals on the crank, or a bad condenser, or points or both.

Also, you only need to change 5th countershaft gear from a 19t to a 20t and you,ll have a cw transmission

Thanks throwchain. It's been stored well, so a lot of the rubber is in good shape. I don't have a ton of experience with points (even my older bikes are electronic or have been converted) so that's a good thought. I should add new condenser and points to the list, cheap enough to replace. I should clarify rough running really meaning bogging. It won't kick, but it will bump start and after hot, it will idle, but just bogs out at different points through the throttle range, stalls at times, will lose idle others, etc. Just unpredictable.

Regarding brakes - basically new shoes? Just better compounds at this point?

Any thoughts on the carb on the '72 being a lost cause?

Thanks.

willoughby - thanks for the reply. I thought I had a four speed on my hands, so, goes to show my inexperience! I don't have a lot of original documentation - I've ordered it and can't wait to dig in!

Welcome to the group!

The carb you have may not be a lost cause. Here are two thoughts for consideration - 1) remove the and disassemble the carb for thorough cleaning. Note that ALL passages which snake through the carb body must be checked/cleaned in addition to the various jets. ESPECIALLY the pilot circuit passages. The pilot circuit has a MAJOR role in proper running at low throttle settings (zero to 1/4 throttle) and they are the smallest passages and jets in the carb and are therefore the easiest to clog. In addition, the pilot circuit provides fuel at ALL throttle settings - so a "fault" in pilot circuit operation will have an effect on operation at ALL throttle settings. So it is essential that the pilot circuit jets and passages are clear of grunge. 2) While the carb is off, take a peek through the carb throat - is there a brass "shroud" which protrudes up into the carb throat about 8mm or so? If so, you have the "B" type carb . . . which is fine. If there is no "tall" brass protuberance . . . you have the "best used as a paper-weight" "A-type" carb.

As mentioned, the Wombat and Combat Wombat transmissions are EXACTLY alike, except for the countershaft 5th gear. Changing to the CW 5th gear would lower your cruise speed on the road, but it would move 5th closer to 4th which can be handy in the woods. Still, it doesn't sound like a good modification for your intended use. Note that I run a CW engine for "enduro" type use, and I have installed the Wombat 5th gear just to get the extra "legs".

Ed
PS: If you are a club member, you can access the past issues of the club newsletter (Resonator Revisited) and there is a tech article in there to guide you through all the carb passages.

Hey Bullfrog - great tip on the A vs B type carb. I’ll pull it to identify it. I’ve been through pilot systems before, old amals with press fitted pilot jets, and it was really hard to ever get it truly right. Still, if it looks like the b type, I’ll give it a go. Worth a shot. I’m not a club member yet but plan to be. The tech articles sound like s great resource. Thanks again.

Also check the rubber stop on the bottom end of the choke. Make sure it’s not hardened up or deformed. If it is, replace it, or you’ll foul a lot of plugs. Don’t ask me how I know this!!! Victor

I too struggled with carb issues on my 94. Lots of parts, jets, gaskets etcetera to get it right. It is a model B carb, and the last problem was to fix the too rich mixture in the quarter to three quarter position. That took a new needle jet and needle to resolve, but it runs perfectly now. Looking back on my bills, it would have been much cheaper to just order up a replacement from SH. However u proceed, it is sweet when u get it dialed in and unleash all those nine horses!

I too struggled with carb issues on my 94. Lots of parts, jets, gaskets etcetera to get it right. It is a model B carb, and the last problem was to fix the too rich mixture in the quarter to three quarter position. That took a new needle jet and needle to resolve, but it runs perfectly now. Looking back on my bills, it would have been much cheaper to just order up a replacement from SH. However u proceed, it is sweet when u get it dialed in and unleash all those nine horses!

You asked if the "model a" carb was not made for two strokes. Answer, no, that's not true. While the model A carb is configured differently than all other Hodakas, there is nothing about any Mikuni that makes it inherently a four stroke or a two stroke carburetor. There are, in fact, two strokes by other Japanese makers that are configured like the A type carb. Yamaha RD350B for one.

The problem with the type A carb is that it is tedious to tune on the Wombat, and for most folks, not worth the trouble. If yours is a type A, change it for the sake of simplicity.

You suggested upping the tooth count on the countershaft and lowering the count on the rear sprocket. I wouldn't do that. First of all, the 94 Wombat is under powered in stock trim. Making the gears taller will take away whatever use you may now have for fifth gear. You may in fact want to drop a tooth on the countershaft sprocket so it can rev more freely. Chances are your top speed will not decrease enough to notice, but it will be easier to ride.

There is nothing about the Combat Wombat transmission that makes it more desirable than what you have. If you have trouble pulling fifth gear because of the slight overdrive ratio, dropping a tooth on the countershaft is cheaper and easier than changing out transmission parts. There is little in common between the Wombat and the Combat Wombat even though some engine parts are the same or are interchangeable. The CW is a race bike with different cylinder and porting, larger carb, etc. I would not start out with a transmission swap, if for no other reason than it isn't cheap to do.

Aftermarket brake shoes are available and are a bit better than NOS stock shoes, but none will make the brakes into a WOW kind of thing. Clean the drums, replace the shoes, and ride.

For the sake of rideability, changing to reed induction is a good upgrade.

Thank you everyone! I’ll report back as I get this sorted, likely with more questions along the way . Hope everyone is out for a ride this weekend.

Hey Roddy and Jack - if you were to look at s replacement carb, which?

-Simon

New 28mm Mikuni with Combat Wombat intake manifold and spigot adapter. Trim the intake boot to fit.

A modest performance bump, but noticeable.

The drop in replacement I mentioned is the 24mm Mikuni carb from Strictly Hodaka, $189 I think.

Be aware that the 24mm replacement carb does require a shorter air boot. Paul has them just for this replacement carb.
I have used both the 24mm and the 28mm slip fit mount replacement carbs on 94 Wombats. I have been happy with both. With the 28mm you are going to want some additional gearing changes as the bump in performance is noticeable as Roger noted.

Food for the thought! Once again, thanks for insight. The experience is much appreciated. Great community.