The Hodaka Club Forum

Hi All,
A year ago I bought my dilapidated Ace 100 at a Swapmeet. I finished the rebuild a week before this year's Swapmeet and took it back to display it. This is the result. I'm quite happy with that BUT - it wasn't running at the time (didn't have enough time). Since then i've sorted out issues such as pulling the ignition switch apart to turn the contacts around 180 degrees so the right wires were contacted at each key position (my fault as I'd pulled it apart to have a new key cut and put it back incorrectly).

Moving the condenser up to under the tank as the old condenser had worked loose and ground the outer case on the inside of the flywheel. Easy job by clipping off the top of the condenser and retaining all the soldered ends, then putting a mains power end cap over the solder to isolate it.

Finding that the points wire was grounding on the exciter coil therefore no spark - whilst kicking the engine over to check for spark, the old kickshaft spring broke ( one week delay for parts) - then snapped off the kickstart bolt when installing it. Very difficult to retrieve the threaded end. Finally have it running and tuned well.

Problem now
I've set the gear selector shaft as per the Manual (measurement type) to 35.1 mm in third gear but the bike will not shift down into first gear. All others select ok rocking back and forth. The control shaft seems tight when I pull it back and forth by hand. It has some spring to it, more so when pulling it (towards first?)
Is this typical control shaft spring symptoms.

I think the spring on the control shaft are expanded? -------------Clarence

That would be my guess. When working on the bike did you have the control shaft out, and if so, did you replace the springs? If not, they can be replaced by pulling the control shaft out through the clutch side. If you wish, you can tip the bike on the left side and not have to dump the oil. Clutch and primary come off.

Well, I,ve managed to leave the primary gear on and remove the wire circlip (snap ring) through a hole in the gear and slid everything out through the sprocket centre. Ends of both springs are flared and the ball receiver has been hammered and no longer has a groove for the balls. Worst though is that the countershaft has a chip out of it on the right side end. Last 'mechanic' must have levered the circlip off against the countershaft I guess as there was no debris in the clutch cover.
Anyone know if the countershaft can be removed/replaced without splitting the crankcase. I suspect the balls will go everywhere and the gears drop unless I can use a dummy drift or something similar? This is a pity as the engine sounds good with a rebore and new piston. No concerning noises.

Sorry, but countershaft replacement can only be done by splitting the cases. You won't find it to be a difficult procedure, but the cases will have to be opened up.
Ed

Nice looking trophy, how about a pic of the bike? Or several? It's ok to show off.

Ready for judging. Currently has the clutch and magneto cover off due to the control shaft issue.

Nice clean bike, worth the time and effort to fix it.

Oz I think you are the only one that ever removed the clip with the gear on, I know I could not. I ma also certain I could not put it back together either. You did good, beautiful bike! ------------Clarence

What a beauty! Looks like a new one of the many I uncrated in the distant past. To complete your restoration journey, it really is time to look inside the decades old engine for some needed replacement parts. As part of the right of passage a true Hodaka person needs to experience the fun and pride of rebuilding the inner cases. Nothing to fear. A simple and cleverly designed engine is to be experienced for your entertainment and knowledge. Part of the Hodaka deal. Carry on!

Maxie

I've finally got my new control shaft and fitted everything back together and had the engine running. it selects gears with the engine off by rocking it forwards to jog the gears and gear selector BUT -
I cant get it into gear with the engine running as it seems that the clutch is not disengaging. I've got 3/32 movement at the clutch actuator lever, clutch plates are flat and fibre discs are 1.96mm thick, springs are ok as well. I have the thick washer the right way around against the inner bearing race and the clutch nut done up to 28 Nm. Pulling in the clutch lever feels like the clutch is operating (no untoward tension).
Any thoughts?

Ps Clarence - You are right, there is no way I could have got the clip back on in situ. I made up a simple tool to fit it which worked first time.

Bert,
It's not uncommon for the clutch plates to stick together as a bike sits for an extended period of time. Usually they will release when the engine reaches operating temperature. I usually ride the bike around with the clutch lever pulled to the handlebar and eventually it releases and the clutch works normally after that.

Thought of that Pop, stripped the clutch, cleaned the plates and tried it dry - no oil, no result.

Have you tried riding the bike? Get it started and warmed up, then get it rolling down a slight grade. Pull in the clutch lever and snick into 1st gear. Try shifting up through the gears and then back down. Did the clutch start working? You report proper freeplay at the clutch lever on the engine and you report that it feels like the clutch is in fact "moving" . . . it should be working then. Let's try it.
Ed

If the clutch nut has been over tightened it can "mushroom" the clutch pinion bushing, preventing it from spinning inside the clutch pinion gear. It might be something to check. In addition make sure that "clutch thrust washer outside" P/N 904015 is installed.

Brian

that's a point Brian - I haven't looked up the conversion to Newton-meter for the torque spec.

Ed

Ed and Brian,
Both thrust washers in place and checked torque specs. Bike isn’t registered so I’ll have to wait a while to ride it to check Ed’s theory. This is a great app when you’ve got British, Japanese, European bikes to work on.

Progress report - I've stripped the clutch a few more times and filed any burrs off the metal plates and placed the clutch assembly, pinion gears and clutch disc in a vice and found that the assembly will turn, leaving the pinion gears stationary - showing the clutch assembly is working. When I put it it the bike - no go. While riding I can hold the lever in as long as I like, load up the brakes and revv the bike but the clutch wont release.
My thoughts are now turning to the pinion/rotor gears and bush. With both washers in place the pinion bush is level with the clutch hub and I'm wondering if my pinion bush is too short and keeping the gears constantly turning with the crankshaft.
I haven't tightened the clutch nut to full torque specs so I don't think the bush is mushrooming (but would this cause the same effect as what I have if it did mushroom).
Is the pinion bush supposed to be slightly longer than the rotor gear and washer?